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kiwi

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  1. kiwi

    two fliegers

    Just a spur of the moment pic. Forgive the photography. Gotta love chieftang and The Zigmeister!
  2. For some reason, when I click the above link, I get a message that the link is broken or out of date. Is the link correct? I have the very same problem. I guess that's a design flaw. Alternatively, does anyone have any pointers to the replacement part, or even the name of the part so I can search on my own? Thanks!
  3. That did it. I just didn't want to jiggle too much if there was something else needing release. Crystals are going in the mail! Thanks all of you for your help. D
  4. @hooky: Of course, I'd rather have all this done by a watch smith. However, in my town as in the towns of many others here, there's a shortage of watchsmiths willing to work on reps. Therefore, I'm trying to strike a balance of prudence, economy, and expeditiousness, to minimize the burden on the precious few watchsmiths that grace this community. I do have appropriate tools, good work bench (An electronics lab bench), magnifying loupe, and fairly steady hands. I figure it's worth the effort to gain the experience. Of course, I plan to have the watches serviced and re-assembled and crystals installed by an expert. The 3717 movement came out easily, as did the crystal. It's just the 3719 that is hanging. I don't see any screws or obvious retainer. if anyone does have a suggestion, I'd be grateful! D
  5. Got it. Thanks so much! I had interpreted the position of the tweezers on the tutorial as touching the button, rather than pointing to it. So I've got the crown off the 3719 easily. However, the movement does not easily slide out of the case--it seems anchored still in the region of the crown tube and pushers. Is there a special trick for this watch (which has the rotating inner bezel controlled by the chrono reset)? I don't want to force anything. Thanks, D
  6. To make sure I'm not really misunderstanding the process, here's a picture: The tweezer tips are on the lever (with blue dot at the tip). I am pushing the lever in the direction of the yellow arrow. It stops as it approaches what I believe is a stopper (yellow dot). There is also a metal tab extending down from the lever, which appears potentially to function as a stopper. (between the blue dot and the pivot). Am I way off base here? D
  7. Thanks for the replies. Just tried again, with the same results. I'm not sure what to change, but keep getting the same result. I actually did try with the hands in a random position, but since I'm sending both these watches to The Zigmeister for service afterward, I figured I'd leave the hands at 12:00 to make his life easier. That is also the reason I prefer to remove the stem in the winding position. As for pressing harder, there is a little stopper that limits the amount of excursion of the lever, and I'm pushing the lever gently inward until it hits that stopper and I get a large resistance. Unless that stopper is also supposed to move, I'm afraid to push harder. If I turn in the winding direction with the lever depressed, then the watch just winds. I am certain I am doing something wrong :-( D
  8. Hello, I have a 3717 and a 3719 from Pure Time, and am attempting to remove the crystals for AR coating. My problem is with the stem release. Both of these have a new asian 7750 28,800 beat movement. I followed the directions in this thread. I set the hands to 12PM and placed the crown in winding position. However, when I press in the stem release on either watch (using a small round-tipped plastic tool) and gently pull on the crown, the stem does not slide out. If I pull with greater pressure, then the crown engages the date-set and time set positions, suggesting the stem is still fully engaged. Am I missing something? I have tried with gentle pressure on the release lever with different amounts of displacement from barely depressed to fully depressed (until the stopper is reached). I'm grateful for any helpful suggestions. Thanks, D
  9. The search function and this thread come through! My question: When ordering the crown and tube, is it necessary to also order a stem, or can that be re-used? Thanks!
  10. Thanks for the advice, guys. I will send the watch to IWC. I know that means I will not see it for a few monhs, but that will be easier to bear now, since my daily watch is a ziggified UPO.
  11. OK, this is unusual, but here's my story. I have a gen 3706, a gift from my brother as an attempt to get me addicted to watches, which I love and which I wore every day until I discovered this forum. A couple ago I had the watch buffed to remove accumulated scratches, and was pretty much horrified to discover that the beautiful subtle alternating bands of polished and brushed finish of the bezel that make the watch so beautiful were lost (all pretty much brushed looking), and the edges were slightly rounded instead of crisp and sharp. I would have rather kept the dings! So, I'm wondering if there exists a 3706 rep with a case good enough to swap out for my badly buffed case. It need not be 1:1 if it is very close and the parts will fit. Any thoughts? Or, does anyone know a source for a gen case? Alternatively, anybody out there really, really good at restoring finishes? PS: In the future, my gens are going to The Zigmeister. PS: The Zigmeister: Eat healthy, exercise, and keep enjoying watches! There's no one to replace you!
  12. It is similar, but comparing it with my gen, here are some notes: 1) Mine has a solid case back. 2) The date wheels should be white with black lettering 3) subdial and sweep hand should be white. 4) The pushers should be longer 5) The crown should have a shallower curvature, less of a high dome shape 6) The chrono subdials have a white paint rim (On the recessed subdial). 7) The case should be brushed finish, except for a thin rim arount the crystal, and a thin rim around the bezel. These all are fixable. Looks like this one has potential. What is the size?
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