rolex001

This is a copy off a Mark I DRSD dial where J&W probably forgot to paint the writing red, or at least pink (most of them faded) - just don't buy it, it's not exactly a good dial. A GWSD dial will never have Submariner 2000 written on the dial.

Looks gen, but with no better pics it's more guessing than fact. Markers look good, maybe have been relumed as the 12 is a bit wobbly. Just to give you an idea - Singer was one out of seven known dial makers. On most fake dials, the printers stamp or engrave Singer in the back - so Singers are the most common fakes. There are also Beyeler fakes - if yo ucan get a pic from the dial back side it will be easy to identify as gen or fake. Some makers only used number codes indeed during some periods. Just because there is no Singer stamp doesn't mean it is fake. Hold the watch under a very strong (like 500W) lamp or optimally under a Sodium-gas lamp. While there keep your eyes shut and after a few secs go see a completely dark room - what do you see? Probably the hands make this not work as they will glow extremely bright due to their SL coating. @ Tribal - take a look at ND Trading site - http://ndtradingcorp.com/zen/index.php?mai...products_id=158 - there are 16800 and even 16660 rdials, but they are as most of their dials, poor attempts.

That's a good thought, on the one hand for teh mentione reason and on hte other one to save the astronomic PP fees that must be applied on a 200k sale...

The caseback is a genuine PP - but how in the world can somebody try to sell a watch for 200 Grand with two shabby pics and a wrong Submarienr booklet in place? Oh well, maybe he has nothing better to do then try... but he could do far better!

Wow, looks like this is overpaid at least five times - talk about profit margin...

What exactly is the movement o nthe back - can't be seen form the pic if it just is a photography or if it indeed is a rebuild dummy. GREAT work!

Thanks for all the precious info, work and pics. Looks like a complete mess to me. You did a great job rebuilding this. I'd steer away from Phong after seeing that - yuk... the attention to detail is just great, they didn't even bother to remove the original incabloc shock system on the dial side - and most probably not even exchange the balance jewel. My understanding is that each balance has to have corresponding pierced jewels and matching cap jewels - did you examine this issue too? Wouldn't amaze me if the dial side jewel is totally wrong. The free sprung overcoil spring actually touching the balance [censored] tops it off for me. For such a price tag I can get a genuine modern Rolex, with a geniously engineered movement... screaming quality from every little part. And it's not that those Daytonas are exactly perfect Frankenwatches... anybody who knows the least little bit about Daytonas will identify these as fakes - Phong should at least get the Chrono bridge right - that's just pathetic...

Very interested especially at that price!

Some also retrofit genuine vintage Tritium pearls to get the look back to original.

Not correct I am sorry. The only silent movements are most Rolex movements. The reason is the rotor assembly being jewelled. There is a simple rotor axle held by two jewel bearings and one C-clip. Doesn't make a noise except the clicks from time to time. ETA movements are ball bearing equipped which results in a noise - the noise might be more quiet if oiled properly, but they should always make a sound. The 7750 is the worst, with unidiretional autowinder it can spin up heftily generating a very loud sound. The both-direction winders on 28XX movements create more or less sounds from winding - it's all normal. Even a new Omega Planet Ocean which has an altered and better winding system makes a noise like crazy....

Thanks guys... my observation was that 580's do indeed fit, and as I said sometimes (thin case 1665) even the 501b's - but I really think this has to do with the poor quality of the Rolex endlinks, they are never consistently shaped... Best to go with a set of brand new ones, they will fit 100%.

9315 with PP divers extension on Mark 00, 0. Endlinks integrated 285/385 later 9315 with Pateted divers extension on the Mark I sometimes - same EL's. 9315 with Patented extension and same EL's (mostly 385) on Mark II but also already with 993150 93150 with Patented extension and 585 endlinks found mostly on Mark II-III 93150 without Patented stamp and 585 endlinks found in all Mark IV Sometimes, 580's were used, 501b's don't fit genuine 1665's - sometimes they fit the flat case used on early models but it's questionable. If you don't want to shell out Thousands - you should get a 93150 and a set of 585 or 580. Talkinga bout modern versions - bracelet with the lined Fliplock clasp already will be cheapest... depending on condition. SEL and Rolex sports model = fake. Except Yachtmaster and post 2007 models.

Yes you would have to trim the dial - the MBW case is a copy from the 5513 case havign a slightly smaller diameter dial. Sadly, this will ruin your 450$ dial permanently. You will have one big flaw - the minute markers will be shorter because they will be covered by the rehaut more than usual. If you know somebody who can do it - let him trim the case rehaut and dial lip with a lathe slightly, so your 1680 dial will bea straight fit. You should think about something like that when moddig with 500$ parts - it will pay off.

This has to be the best photo for today's situation! Great!

Sadly, 100% agree on this one.

Well, after all you can't just walk in an AD and buy a replacement dial.

Hm, so many feedbacks and such shabby pics... the watch in the pics looks weid, wrong crystal with cyclops. The dial however is a genuine MarkII - but in any connection 90 Grand is just out of line...

The dial you show is a nice condition Mark IV. IMHO not worth the talk - MarkIV was the by far most common dial. FYI this is a Tritium dial, so most likely it will not glow any more - the first Luminova replacement is called MarkV - it looks similar to the MarkIV with two lines of red writing.

No, there are to date three versions of the DRSD luminova dial. The latest has a coronet and font like the Deep Sea dial... The version before looks identical to the latest GW service dial, somehow it seems only the word Seadweller is printed in red. The first Luminova dial is also marked Swiss T<25 like the first GW. Well, with Rolex you can always say - you don't want a dial exchange - of course they can't change it then. A gen DRSD is worth a shitload of money, so you wouldn't want to get that relumed. There are some nerds that would pay top $$$ for a Luminova dial, but in fact they are worthless, not well done and come with no "soul"...

Rolex does never relume a dial - what they do is remove the old Tritium dial and install a new replacement dial. The replacements are built by Rolex and are mostly similar in appearance to the original dial. The markers however are Superluminova painted - easy to spot because of the plastic-like look. If you want a vintage look and a functional face - go for a replacement dial - in your case there is a replacement dial available, to be exact it's two versions - Rolex changed the service dial appearance in 2003. First service dials were labelled "Swiss T<25" probably because of a remainder of pre-printed dials - they were already covered with SL. Then, in 2003 the "Swiss" dials came up - they are only labelled Swiss at Six and are indicating RSC replacement dials. These dials are similar in appearance, matte surface and no Whitegold trimmed markers. But the markers are plain white SL. There is no other trusted option - a vintage Tritium dial with a relume is just not correct in the eye of any collector. Of course it is your decision - but as you asked if Rolex would relume a dial - no they would not and if your GWSD was a genuine, you would only have the option to retain an original Tritium dial or to go for a SL coated service dial. Sure, you can relume your dial, but nobody from the "gen world" would do it - it would devaluate a T dial completely.

904L has no higher Rockwell hardness than 316L - so that's a no go. You should send it to Rolex Geneva for authentication - they can determine the Steel grade.

The rehaut looks so wokky it could fit a Deep Sea Seadweller engraving.

Just as a side note as you mention the DW - it's genuine, that's for sure - probably changed during a service thus no flat top 3 and no silver wheel.

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A friendly advice, please, if you don't know 100% what you are doing, leave the movement to an expert. These are bullet proof movements and they can take a lot of mistreatment - but it doesn't make sense trying to play around with it. Hand it to Rolex, they will do a great job. The balance staffs are probably run down and the mainspring certainly is broken, this happens quite often on the 157X movements. I can see that this watch is an everyday wearer, so the service will involve many parts, includinga new rotor axle and maybea new rotor jewel - the rotor is already grinding down the autowinding bridge. The screwheads look to be in good condition, so the movement wasn't messed with in the past, leave it like that and Rolex will service it - then you will see how such an old watch can still perform likea Chronometer.