pcfreeman2

But is that gen movement dirty when you get it naked? Perhaps taking some of the covering off will reveal a "dirty" side.

Alright, I took the dial and the datewheel off and I still can't find the release. I could use some help finding it in this picture: I must have it wrong, but I am looking for it over here somewhere: I appreciate the generous offer to look. Even if you can point me in the right direction would be a big help. I went to ofrei, but I am not sure what I need (there seem to be a lot of extenders) or whether I must by 30+ of them at once. I checked out Eurotimez' post, and I think based on the number of holes in the gears that the movement looks genuine. But I would appreciate any other opinions. Aside from my fingers smelling like finger cot, this has been a lot of fun. Thanks for all the help!

Thank you Ubi. I am a big fan of all your work. Any help others can provide on my other questions would be greatly appreciated. Particularly, real Swiss movement.

So you take the hands and dial off, and then there is a release under that ... near the datewheel?

Ubi thanks for the quick response. I got it out and for those interested, here is where the release is. I can't imagine how you get to it without breaking the stem Anyone have any advice where I can get a new one, and which one I should get? And while we are at it, can anyone help me identify my movement? Swiss or Asian that is the question Also, I understand this is more accurate with the seconds hand removed. True? I hope so, because it fell off. At any rate I am having a blast.

Hello - I have a PP Jumbo Nautilus, and I got it open to look at the movement ... and check if it is ETA or clone. At any rate, I got it open. But since it opens from the dial side, I am having some trouble getting the stem to disconnect. I am desperately trying to get a peek at the "business" end of the movement. I love this watch, and any advice is appreciated.

So I just bought a 7835 bracelet with 357 end links for my first daytona project. The project is coming together nicely thanks to all the help on this forum, and I look forward to posting the pictures and giving proper credit. Well anyway, the bracelet it is gross. There is gunk in between the links. My plan was to give it a good once over with rubber gloves and q-tips. Followed by a a cycle in the ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. I occurred to me that asking for advice from all of you would probably be a good idea. What is the best way to get the gunk out from between my links?

I appreciate all the insights. The good news is I didn't miss anything. The bad news is that it is too expensive. I have been patiently waiting the past few days for the daytona fairy to leave a PM in my inbox offering me Phong's case kit for $1,000 US off. Perhaps I will pull a tooth and stick it under my pillow tonight and see if that helps. I would probably be in this project for +/-$4,000 but not $6,500. For this 16520 project I feel like I am being taken advantage of on Phong's case too much. The rest of the parts with patience I feel like I could get a good deal on (and they are gen so they are resellable on the open market). For the price of an Ubi'like 16520 I could build three Freddy333 vintage 62XX Daytonas with gen Valj 72 movements. Again thanks all for the robust discussion.

Based on By-Tor's great Daytona @ six review, I started putting together the research to build a Daytona 16520 with a Zenith movement. By-Tor suggests in his post that I should expect to pay "2-3 thousand dollars" for this. However, when I start to price the project out I get the following: Phong Case Kit - $1,650 Movement - 1,300 Bracelet - 1,350 Dial & Hands - 1,200 Total - $5,500 Even if I get the bracelet, dial, & hands for half price. I am still looking at over $4,000 USD. And all this assumes I can put it together myself (which is not a given). I can't imagine how to get this project under $3,000. Am I missing something? I have found all of the Daytona posts very informative, and I thank you in advance for all of your help with this project.

small edit the 6262 has the Valjoux 727 movement. I am also looking to source a 6264 case and dial if anyone can help.

For what it is worth, here is my cheatsheet for matching dials to the rest of the watch: Push-down Button models: 6241 - Black Bezel, Twinlock 6.00mm "underline"crown, no "Oyster" on face, usually "Daytona" on face, Valjoux 722 movement, 7835-271 bracelet 6239 - Steel Bezel, Twinlock 6.00mm "underline" crown, no "Oyster" on face, usually "Daytona" on face, Valjoux 722 movement, 7835-271 bracelet 6264 - Black Bezel, Twinlock 6.00mm "underline" crown, no "Oyster" on face, usually "Daytona" on face, Valjoux 727 movement, 7835-271 bracelet 6262 - Steel Bezel, Twinlock 6.00mm "underline" crown, no "Oyster" on face, usually "Daytona" on face, Valjoux 722 movement, 7835-271 bracelet Screw Pusher models: 6240 - Black Bezel, Twinlock 7.00mm "coronet only" crown, "Oyster" on face, no "Daytona" on face, Valjoux 722 movement, 7835-271 bracelet 6263 - Black Bezel, Triplock 7.00mm "3 balls" crown, "Oyster" on face, rare "Daytona" on face, Valjoux 727 movement, 7835-371 or 78350-571 bracelet 6265 - Steel Bezel, Triplock 7.00mm "3 balls" crown, "Oyster" on face, rare "Daytona" on face, Valjoux 727 movement, 7835-371 or 78350-571 bracelet PCF

Hello - New to RWG, and damn I am looking forward to coming here often. I have just done some early searches on vintage daytonas ... and holy crap you guys know a lot. Learning will be fun ... and a little expensive ... and time consuming. Hell, what are hobbies for.