One4adventure

It doesn't smell right to me.ebay

PS You need a good tapping fluid as well, stainless is really sticky stuff.

Here's a place in the US- I just googled metric tapping set, 3mm x .35

http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/pr...aps:602,902,604

scroll down to 3mm and .35- $5.40

typical size for 3mm is .5mm on the thread pitch.

At that price, I'd order a few. Maybe a metric drill bit or two- 2.65mm.

I just had a quick glance at the linked site, as a toolmaker by trade my advise would be spend $20 and buy a proper machine tap, not the cheaper hand tap. These hand taps are real easy to break. You want a HSS machine tap, and a proper tap wrench (starrett make a nice small one but for one use it might be overkill) just avoid a ratcheting handle, tapping something this small requires the work piece in a vice and two steady hands!!! If this is your first tapping this small I would suggest you get a piece of scrap stainless steel to practice with. Good luck!!

Greetings on this fine cold day!

I am looking to try and replace this hideous (it's really not that bad! ) tube on my MBW case.

However, I am unsure about the tap that I would.

As you can see, the current tube has a different TPI (threads per inch) than the gen style.

Our record show a M3 tap with a .35 thread would require a 2.65mm drill for the subs using the 7030 setup.

However, all I have been able to find short of a rolex tap online is a M3 x .5. Obviously, this would require a 2.5mm bit.

At the local store, I am able to source IRWIN tools, bits, taps etc.

The closest tap I can find is the IRWIN tap requiring a #36 bit, which is equal to .1065 inches or 2.70mm.

It is labeled as 32 TPI.

Do you think this would work, or would I just end up ruining my case!?

Is the TPI ever mentioned for rolex tubes?

And lastly, I have read some members did NOT have to countersink their case. I am curious as to how the extra lip around the inner tube threading is dealt with than (which I have marked in red.)

Any suggestions or experience on this would be greatly appreciated.

warm regards,

TPI is threads per inch and no TPI (Imperial) Tap would be suitable given that the tube would take a metric thread measured in mm of pitch between each thread. The tap should be available from any machine shop supply house. BTW to figure the correct tap drill for a metric thread just subtract the pitch from the diameter. Hope this helps!

Chris

The real issue is like most "brands" Invicta is just a name, there is no way you might say from across the room "Say, is that the new Invicta?"

Real brands are recognized by their individual features, no mistaking a Bell+Ross or a Pan!! Problem will Rolex is everyone assumes its a rep even if its gen unless you scream money. Pity really.

Hi RoninQ,

Thanks for the link, actually I have been there before. Unfortunately it does not answer which model first had the unidirectional bezel!! Does the 1680 have this feature?

Thanks,

Chris

I spoke too soon, there is a link to www.oysterworld.de which has a great compare of the 14060 to the 5513, it would seem the 14060 was the first!!

Thanks,

Chris

http://www.vintagesubmariner.com/

Hi RoninQ,

Thanks for the link, actually I have been there before. Unfortunately it does not answer which model first had the unidirectional bezel!! Does the 1680 have this feature?

Thanks,

Chris

Hi All,

Sorry for the noob question but I can't find a clear list of the various differences of say a 5512 to a 1680.

Can someone point me to a list of the various differences over the years? I am particularly interested in which model first had the unidirectional bezel.

Cheers,

Chris

Thanks for the positive comments guys. Sometimes you get lucky when franken-building and everything fits without raising your blood pressure!

Thank for the great tips!! the seller tells me he has movement holders for $40 each, is this a good price?

I found a site advertising the ETA for $150 new.

120314336553

I just picked one up myself!

Now I need the help of you guys to put this together into a Christmas present for my wife!

Do you guys thing I could sneak an ETA movement into this case?

I am thinking TT bracelet and Gold Bezel and crown. perhaps a pink mother of pearl dial?

This is exciting, I saw a woman wearing the midsize datejust the other day, a very classy looking watch!

For $60 the price seamed right?

Thanks

Chris

i bet Bond would actually wear a Breitling Emergency watch. i know many SAS agents wear this model.

Actually I had heard from a watch seller near Hereford that they are wearing the Traser Black Storm Pro, I picked one up but sold it on after a few weeks on the wrist, you could read by the lume which was amazing but on the whole the watch seamed cheap and small, and the bezel is a composite. Of course the quartz movement is a Ronda or similar deadly accurate but no sweep......hope the new owner likes it but I am back to my CWC automatic RN diver.

Of course this is why I now have Rolex envy........

Re the Sandoz sub, there is at least two versions sporting the same name. The one depicted above is a Hong Kong and the preferred one is the Singapore version for reasons I cannot remember......the Singapore has a raised logo on the dial.

This might be of interest?

#130248058622

The idea of this Tudor has me thinking......

For what you want to do with a Yao dial and hands, there is no point in buying a Euromariner.

Well likely my project does not reflect the tastes of the average member here....but it is important for me to get the right look and most of the sub inspired watches just don't cut it, part of the draw is the perfect balance that rolex struck in the design of this model. Also I love the fact that the euromariner shares parts with the real deal!

So its a can of worms I see!

Well to narrow it down I was thinking get the Euromariner with the asian movement and then do some mods like;

Swiss movement

369 explorer type dial (Yao)

MOD hands from Yao

lose the cyclops

polish the rehaut clean

add fixed bars

pie in the sky I might even PVD the thing.

I will do the CG mod if it strikes me

So you see an exact replica is not required but the idea the case share components with the real deal makes me think I can shore up the weak points that affect the case being water tight to at least 50m.

I currently sport a CWC RN auto and can tell you that the fixed bar watch is the only one that will stay on my wrist for all my activities like swimming off road driving and recovery........i have lost plenty of spring bars on lesser watches as I alway use a nato strap.

Hi all,

My search for a great sub watch has led me to this great forum! I want to build up my own as this is part of the fun and will keep you guys posted with pics if there is an interest, basic needs are a watch I can Snorkel with that has great looks and decent lume, I am gathering from this forum the best case might be the one used in the Euromariner as it shares many components with the real deal.

I am pretty happy with the performance of the ETA movement so that willl be in the spec as well.

Is my best bet to buy an empty case or the base model Euromriner and go from there?

What are my options? Would love to hear about similar type projects.

Thanks,

One4adventure

Hi all,

I am a dive watch fan particlarly the Sub,SM,SD ect.

I own a CWC RN diver auto and would like to build a nice sub that i can get rough and tumble with and not feel guilty!

My search led me here in a round about way as I was looking for a Singapore Sandoze as a base and I was offered a replica 5512.

Hopefully I can get some advise on the best sub case with 120 click bezel and domed sapphire....that would be great!! (of course i will post that query in the Rolex forum in due time)

Cheers