CJT74

I found him, thanks guys!

Thanks but I'm not sure what Tc is.

Looking for a GEN spec 16613 or 16803 (TT sub) case. It must fit a GEN dial and 3035 movement, GEN spec bezel and GEN spec tube and crown. Anyone have one for sale or know where to get one? Preferably with lug holes.

Thanks!

I don't know of any trusted members. I was reffered to one but he stated he couldn't get parts if needed and hasn't responded to my email so I assume he doesn't really want the job. I was just joking about mailing the watch. I ship about 50 orders a week in my business so I'm well versed on shipping. My joke was about the USPS in general as they actually suck. I would go with UPS or Fed Ex.

Hmmmm....I was thinking the date jumper would be in the movement already. I guess I'll have to take a look at that before I go crazy ordering parts. I'll add a date wheel to the 3130 but I'm not about to start adding mechanisms.

Yes these were some tense moments. And I agree it still needs to be serviced. I have been tossing around the idea of mailing it to someone but I don't think I can do it. While this is not a true GEN watch, inside the case it is true GEN and I have about $3K into this thing. I am reluctant to send it to someone I have never met, I'm even more scared of putting it in the hands of the post office. That leaves me with finding someone local. There are tons of watch repair places in my area that work on Rolex but I need to find a REP friendly one. As I understand it many watch repair shops that deal with Rolex won't touch one unless it's 100% authentic.

I am actually getting pretty good working on them. I have two ETA 2863 movements that I plan to use as practice. One is mint and works perfect and the other doesn't. It's complete but won't stay running. Basically the same problem my 3035 had. I plan to tear it down for practice. I ordered a complete set of watch maker tools to make it easier. It's tough doing work on these with general tools and holding a scratched up magnifying glass in one hand the whole time. LOL

After a couple of hours of research and cross referencing I think this little project is a go. Based on the numorous ebay ads for date wheels that fit both the 3130 and 3035 I can't imagine the date wouldn't work. I would just need to advance the time an entire day to advance the date. This can be a pain but once you set it just keep it in the winder. My buddy has and older datejust like this. He has to run the minute hand around the watch 24 times to move the date one day.

Next was the dial. Looks like that's a go. The 3130 is used in the Air King with no date. The specs for the Air King dial are identical to the Sub date dial. Except of course that the Air King dial doesn't have the date window.

Yeah the bezel assembly is good too. I'll probably list the dial and bezel here. But before I will even attempt to take this 14060M apart I need to know if the date will work. I'm pretty sure it will because there are plenty of date wheels advertised on flea bay that fit "3130/3135" movements.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310304839162&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

My only other concern is will a dial from a 16610 (3035 movement) fit a 3130. I assume the feet locations are identical being that the 3130 and 3035 are nearly identical.

Yes. I have a GEN 14060M that took a little beating on the outside. But the movement is perfect. I never really liked the no date "feature" so instead of just salvaging the watch I want to upgrade it by putting a date wheel on the movement and putting the movement in a 16610 case.

Will a date wheel work on a 3130 movement? If I have ready up on this correctly my assumption is it will. The only thing that would make it different from a 3135 is the quick set feature? Meaning to change the date on a 3130 you would need to cycle through an entire day on the dial to advance the date?

Can a caliber 3130 have a date wheel added to it and have it work?

OK gents I got this 3035 going. By luck and a little help from above I didn't screw it up.

I removed the bridge and balance wheel assembly. Then I removed the pallet bridge and pallet so I could take a look and clean it out.

This is where it got a little funny and scary. I didn't power down the main spring or pull the crown. The instant I took the pallet out the watch started making a buzzing sound. I turned it over and the hands were spinning like crazy. The second hand was going so fast you couldn't even see it. LOL. I though it was trashed for sure. But it came to rest in one piece, after it had advanced about 2 days. LOL.

Anyway, I carefully cleaned it out under there, it was filthy. I put it back together, which was painstakening, and bam. I wind it up, set the time, push in the crown and the balance wheel is off and running. I opened up my gen 14060 (3130 movement) to compare the balance wheel speeds and there was no noticable difference.

The watch has been perfect all day. Though I will still seek service. But now I know at least it works and is just dirty inside.

In lamein terms Amplitude is the measurement in degrees of how far the balance swings.

Gotcha, toug to tell with the eye but I would say at this point probably 80% of what it should be when comparing to my other sub which is a gen 14060.

Funny thing. If I leave the watch on the desk or dresser it will keep running, as long as I keep winding it of course. If I wear it it will keep running no matter how much I shake it. But if I put it in the winder it will stop, but not right away. I put it in the winder at about 7pm last night and when I woke up I couls see that it stopped at 4 am. I took it out of the winder and gave it a shake and it started up again. I have been wearing it all morning just to test it. I made breakfast and washed both cars which involved lots of movement and it's still running.

Yeah, it definately needs some professinal attention.

How much amplitude are you getting?

Can you tell me what that means?

Amazing, this watch ran all night and kept perfect time. But, the balance wheel is still moving slower than normal. And if I shake the watch a little hard it will stop, but not every time. Then a quick clockwise shake gets it going again. That's much better than it was a couple days ago.

It seems like the problem is the balance wheel can't get momentum. Which is why is stops if the watch is shaken vigorously.

I have to say Rolex movements are beautiful, when I serviced my uncles older datejust I was looking at it and thinking Rolex should consider putting clear casebacks as an option for their watches. I'll see if I still have the pics in my computer when I get home. Vac's a good guy and I believe he's also in Florida (+1 for you) good luck.

I agree, in addition to this franken sub with gen guts I also have a 100% GEN and authentic 14060 and I sometimes take the backs off the watches just to look at them. They are a work of art inside.

Well it was running smooth for about 3 hours then stopped again. If I shake the watch in a clockwise motion it will start again but it will stop minutes later. Strange, I figure it would either run or not. I guess I'll have to get it worked on.

Sure. If your over on RG also you'll see a lot of recommendations for Vac. He has one of mine right now. He's actually in FL also. I'll pm you his contact info.

Thanks for all the info guys. Oddly enough the watch is working now. I took the balancer bridge out and put a microscopic drop of silicone oil in the jewel where the balancer wheel rides. I put it back together  and as soon as I pushed the crown in it started on it's own. Before I would have to kick start it with my tweezers. Though I can tell the balancer is still moving a little slower than it should. I put the back on and have been wearing it for an hour and it is still keeping accurate time.

I will give a shout to Vac anyway because I'm sure this old movement needs servicing anyway.

Service my friend. Lubricants dry up or gum up the works. Here's the deal, most watch makers that I've dealt with don't care about who made what. Their business is to be paid to get your watch working again. There are several very skilled members on the different forums that provide a full service to your watch if you need it. Most of them are watchmakers that do it for a living so they are 100% reliable. Spend the money and do it right. If your car was running like that would you just open the hood and spray the engine off with a hose and hope it works better? I doubt it.

Any recommendations of someone I can ship the watch to? I'm in Florida in the USA so someone within the lower 48 would be ideal.

Not sure where to take a half real half rep watch without getting strange looks. I'm pretty handy working on them as long as I don't have to go too deep in the movement. I was hoping to hear someone say "just adjust ........... and see if that works"

I have blown it out and it does run longer now. Before it would stop within a few minutes. Now if I leave it alone it will keep going for the most part. But I can tell the balance wheel is moving slower than it should.

Maybe a weak hair spring?

Hey guys, it's been a while. A few years ago I built a franken sub. I have a 3035 movement in my watch and for the last 3+ years it has run perfect. Now it won't keep running. I took the back off and I can see the balance wheel struggling to keep running.

If I lay the watch face down with the back off under a warm lamp and kick start the balance wheel it will run and keep accurate time. But as soon as I start moving the watch around it slows down and stops.

Any ideas?

The date window will line up, but the font will most likely be way off. I have a couple spare datewheels for 2836-2 from Rolex reps.

Send me a PM and I can get one off to you.

T

Wow great, thanks. PM sent.

Where can I get these? I have a new 2836 movement coming but I'm afraid the date disk on it will not line up with the window on the sub dial. Where can I get the overlay in white?

I was just thinking. The date may not line up with the window in the dial on that movement. I may need an overlay. Where can I get that?

I am not planning on changing the date disk or putting an overlay. Those numbers look good enough as long as the wheel is white. This is a project for a friend. It doesn't need to be microscope accurate.