projectologist

I removed both pins and went through the same method to flatten them. Here's a pic showing my lo-tech method. The pin vise secures the pin while I move the block of wood accross various grits of sandpaper. When I start out, I have the pin extending a very small fraction beyond the bottom of the block... just enough to flatten but not remove anymore material than necessary. The main cg pin is re-inserted just a micro amount below flush which avoids any edges protruding due to the slight curve of the cg body's top surface. The even brushed surface was produced by moving the cg in one direction (don't brush back and forth) over 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. When I do this, the cg body is held steady against a straightedge and drawn over the sandpaper which is glued to a flat surface. Each stroke is drawn over a clean section each time. Brushing with the same area of sandpaper more than once can create micro scratches that gives the finish an uneven look. And you want to avoid holding the sandpaper in your hand and using your fingers to rebrush the cg. Since your thumb is soft, it will not be possible to apply even pressure across the entire surface, resulting in a sloppy looking surface.

I decided the roller-bearing pin needed some refinement. On my Noob cg the little pin was sitting a little above the lever tip and was not dead flat. So out it came, got flattened, polished and re-installed flush. Couple of phone pics, the first one shows the pin finished and getting ready to be pushed flush. Next pic shows fully finished cg... outer lever tip shortened and rounded per gen, cg body and lever edges polished, cg pin also flattened - polished - recessed just a hair below flush with cg body.

Here's a pic from Rolex's promo release packet for Basel... note the spacing. Maybe the factory used this pic for reference...

Much easier to make a die and stamp out the insignias as opposed to setting up each rotor one at a time and turn the milling or engraving machine loose on it. Just glue on the insignia and done.

Agree and unfortunately there are no movement plates big enough with room to be engraved/finished per gen But oh that dial and date... So nice on the wrist

Well duuuhhhh....

Real one-piece machined rotor

I usually replace bracelets immediately, but this one is very comfortable and the double lock clasp system is very solid. Overall finish is excellent. It will stay on this watch

Smooth sweep, accurate and stays wound forever

You will be very impressed with it! I've received more compliments on it this past week than I have on my PAMs all year.

Oh how I wish it was... but alas, it's only a rep I'll get some movement pics up later today. It's good.

The first day I took pics of this watch, I wanted to accurately capture the uniqueness of the blue dial finish and design. I didn't feel I had, so I took about 40 pics today with my iPhone while stuck in SoCal traffic for an hour. After editing the pics this evening, I realized this dial can't be pegged with one defining look. The slightest angle or light change transforms the dial. So here are some pics that show the different looks of this dial. Guess I'm a little obsessed with it at the moment The horizontal bands can appear both rounded or flat depending how the light hits the dial... Some angles the dial looks like it has a matte finish...

41mm case, 44mm including crown.

You got that right!

Agree... right at home with jeans and an old sweatshirt...

Off the charts awesome work! Well done. I love this type of post.

Actually this one arrived by surprise. A great member forwarded it to me as it had been done to him. I'll be wearing it for a little while, make that, wearing the hell out of it because it's so effing nice! He included a nice dark brown gator, but the bracelet is so comfortable and well-done, I'm not going to change it. Overall fit and finish is impressive, it's been a long time since I've had the constant urge to stare down at my wrist throughout an entire day. The almost iridescent quality of the blue dial is hard to capture, so I'll take some more pics and try to nail it better. As well as some macros of the movement (the Swiss version with the correct silver and gold finish parts). Arrived yesterday so I took a couple of quick pics. They're low contrast as its overcast and grey this week, but it seems fitting as this watch exudes understated class, not flash and bling.

The member I got it from had it DLC'd, dbl AR'd. Matches perfectly the ProHunter GMT with the military spec finish. The GMT IIC has always been a pretty accurate rep.

Actually 2 with a Rollie added to break up the Pamnotony The Noob V3 case sets are game changers! Worn in no particular order. Not too hard to tell which xtal has double AR when taking pics outside.

Looks like the clear plastic is still on the display back. If this is your first PAM it won't be your last

Try PMing member Rolexfinder. He was offering a very similar buckle with strap at one time.

Which model are you talking about? If it's a current rep, most have lume that is pretty much spot-on to gen.

Regarding your PS comment... Not that unusual as Panerai's first in-house manual-wind movement used in the 233 also has a date function as well as GMT and Power Reserve indicators. Good luck on your quest!

They won't be that noticeable viewed normal size which is waaaay smaller than the macros you're looking at... trust me.

As both a longtime gen and rep PAM owner I've noticed gen PAMs with both dead flat lever pins and more recently most with pins with a subtle soft edge. Here's my gen 000's lever pin with a soft edge giving the illusion that it sits just below flush, but it is indeed flush with the top surface of the cg body. If you look at the latest PAM catalog you'll see even more examples of what I'm talking about. It's the same for the roller-bearing pin which you'll notice has the same subtle soft edge. Reps generally smooth it flush with the lever.