ifly65

Welcome and enjoy...its great here! This is great reading for us 'noobs' by Toad:

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...981&hl=toad

I got it from another member, his username is 'russ'. Very easy deal.

P.S. I think my avatar could take yours

Maybe you could build a cage like this:

or just have your cat rock out:

http://www.eyeenvision.com/litterbox/hissofdeath.html

P.S. I think my avatar could take yours

Thats funny stuff...nice watch too!

Nice!

Almost a tad Rush there for a wee bit at the begining! I'm always impressed by Jazz drummers, I swear the have something else playing in their head!lol. I'm just jealous cause I was never that good!! Good sounds bud, thanks for sharing!

Thanks, I appreciate it Nikki6!

Here is my 3 piece band recorded live...Im playing the synthesizer guitar:

Playing Keyboards along with a Genesis cd:

We're trying to answer your question, which when you start doing your research, you will learn is probably the worst question to ask on a watch forum. People are being friendly...which is more than these types of queries usually get.

The short answer: You get the best reps from the Internet

The long answer:

• Where you should buy depends on a number of factors
  
• Where are you located? Certain countries have shipping restrictions so you need to choose your dealer appropriately
  
• What do you mean by best rep? Best out of the box? Best potential to take genuine parts?
  
• All have flaws. What are your priorities to avoid flaws? Datewheels? Movement reliability? Dial fonts? Crown guard shape?
  
• Are you interested in best value...or the best rep? The best rep will be 99% genuine and cost you thousands...the best value will cost $100 with shipping.
  
• There are many more questions to consider
  

Your question is a loaded question with not enough details which is why nobody is giving you an answer. We don't know your experience with watches other than that you bought what appears to be a high priced, low quality rep and don't want to spend the same if you don't have to...but we don't know how much a stickler you are for detailed accuracy...what you consider priorities in a rep...your ability to maintain them/upgrade them...whether or not your rep was an automatic or quartz...your experience with automatic watches...chronographs...etc.

Read my Noob Guide linked in my signature, and you'll get a much better understanding of the questions to ask and what to look for...including links to the dealers and reviews of them. People are extremely helpful here...but they don't spoon feed.

Toad nails it on the head...again! His links are a must read and very helpful. Enjoy this awesome place. I am relatively new too. There are many friendly members on here like Phoband, Southwest, CharlieUK, By-Tor and Toad. Just to mention a few. RWG was my first forum and IMHO the best. Also check out RWI and RepGeek...most of us are members on a few different sites.

If you think you are going to like this...please become a 'supporter'. This site saved me $800.00+ in a scam waiting to happen, when I considered ordering from Bluefakes before I found RWG. The memberships are nearly free if you consider the benefits.

Have fun!

Fri, Sat and Sun my new MBW 1680...

I fly Radio Control Helicopters, born in '65. I also used to be the head painter for the news choppers owned by Heli Inc. East St. Louis (a fleet of 60 helis throughout the usa).

Wow Robbieg...those are incredible. Awesome colors.

Thanks...I also have a 200 f/2.8 L, but the lens I used for those other shots (except the A-Bay sunset) is the Canon 50 f/1.4 prime. I also the 100 f/2 prime. Those lenses are built exactly like the 200 L and every bit as sharp, but about half the price. Canon really makes awesome midrange primes.

I thought about switching to Nikon when the D300 came out because I'm a sport shooter and the Nikon can shoot 8 frames per second vs 6.5 for the Canon 40D I use, but I don't think anyone else can match Canon's glass for quality per dollar.

Canon was the first to use injection molding on lenses in the 60's...along with the first to use flourite crystals for the asphericals. I love Nikon too, Ive never owned one...but Ive used them at work.

All of my watch shots lately are with the prime 50 1.8 and a 2x...until I get a macro someday...these can make nice wallpapers:

Here's mine.....pic I took many years back:

Love the blues in this photo...nice!

It makes you 'look up'!

Great lens...I shoot MLS soccer with that lens on a 40D. About the minimum setup I can get away with for night sport shooting. Good thing the pitch is well lit.

Nice moon, I thought your shots looked crisp, you must have other L's too!

Cool....which telephoto lens did you use?

Thanks! A Canon 300 4.0L Aspherical lens with a Tamron 2x converter on a Canon 10D DSLR....oh yeah...and a tripod!

The 10D has a pre-stage mirror lock up in BULB mode to reduce camera vibration. 'Shooting the moon' is a matter of underexposing.

Shot I took a couple of years ago in my front yard...

My Watchmaster 1680 says 5513 and has an L serial# like yours- maybe the same, I'll check tonite. The lugholes don't look bad, IMO. Mine are smaller and still need to be drilled out.

I think what Cats is saying is that his does NOT say 5513, but instead says 1680.

Does anyone know if MBW ever used 1680 instead of 5513 for its reference number?

Shooting watches and jewelry on a reflective surface is a common method used by pros for web and print ads. There are differences in the photos...lighting, color correction, dial area shown, reflection of watches...etc. Chances are the person that took the gen photo never even saw freddy's photo...a coincidence.

doesnt this model have a slow beat movement?

The caliber 1565 (leads into the new model series 168x) Rolex's '65-'66: 21,600 bph.

Here is a great site to read all about it:

http://www.vintagesubmariner.com/gallery.html

Nice watch, and great pics!

I've been away from the forum for a little while busy with other stuff, but it's good to sign back on and read a great thread like yours. From my experience you've got a nice later model dial with a "more correct" font red lettering.

Like my friend RG said, have fun with the modding, as it can be addictive (and expensive!)

Cheers,

JJ

Thanks JoJo...thats an awesome profile pic...one of my all time faves!

@ ifly65,

taking of the braclet on a model where you can touch the springbars from the outside is real easy.

I always use a toothpick , so you can't damage the case , and push them out of the lughole.

Putting it back into place is also very easy . Put one side of the springbar into the hoel and place the other end against the back of the case.

The pick up the same toothpick push in the springbar and gently push the psringbar in between the lugs "voila"

My MBW shows 1680 as typenumber and the serial L342295 another "new" thing is that the lugholes are almost 2 mm which is also the case with yours if i'm not mistaken.

Some members told me that they have never seen this combination of type and serial number let alone the bigger lugholes.

I'm really interested how your MBW is between the lugs.

Carpe Diem

Cats

Here you go Cats! My close up lens really sucks...sorry.

First the 'nice' lume...for about 5 seconds:

Is this a true 'Polex'?:

Here are those numbers Cats, gotta love the 420:

This shows the brushed large silver gear with the polished smaller silver gear:

There are more holes in the small gold gears:

The ETA markings:

2001 Kubrick shots:

@ ifly65,

taking of the braclet on a model where you can touch the springbars from the outside is real easy.

I always use a toothpick , so you can't damage the case , and push them out of the lughole.

Putting it back into place is also very easy . Put one side of the springbar into the hoel and place the other end against the back of the case.

The pick up the same toothpick push in the springbar and gently push the psringbar in between the lugs "voila"

Carpe Diem

Cats

Cats, thanks for the info. I like the toothpick tip! I have a trusty 1665 with lug holes. The lug holes are worthless on the 1665. Removing and attaching them 'should' be real easy, however the 1665 lug holes are drilled so far 'off' from alignment, that I had to bend the springbars to put it back together (Ive read about others having the same issues with reps). If I had the proper springbar tool, It wouldnt have taken me so long to re-assemble. Putting them back on is what concerns me when removing the springbars...oh yeah, and having them 'fling' across the room, or worse yet, bend and break.

When I look at the lugholes on my Trusty 1665 closely, they are drilled way too far 'outside' towards the top edge of the case (almost off the edge of the case).

The MBW 1680 lugholes look much better. They are centered properly.

Ill let you know what I find out.

Hi all !

I am longtime watch nut and just found this forum. I am already excited to be here. I better keep my budget and don't end up with 100 watches in my wrest

Welcome! and Beware...Ive bought 5 rollie reps in three months. Im done for now, Ill watch you have some fun for a bit

Great post Charlie!

Great reps thrill me.

Great reps in awesome photos thrill me even more.

Thats super nice of you to say. This is how I feel about shooting watches. The details are awesome when viewed in picture form.

There are so many great photographers on this site. I am impressed. Not often do you find a hobby that 'makes' people want to become better photographers because of that specific hobby...how cool huh?

Thanks vlydog!!!

WOW!

Amazing pics mate!

What camera are you shooting with?

I am truly impressed!

(oh, and nice watch too!)

wear it well!

Thank you CharlieUK! I use a Canon 10D DSLR with a Canon 50mm 1.8 lens with a Tamron 2x converter. For lighting I use one light source, a scrim tented flourescent reflector.

Remember...light is an arrow. Less is better when it comes to lighting. When setting up a shot, inches/mm's can make or break the angle of attack from the viewfinder and light source. For hot spots, I use gobbos (black duct tape in strips attached to the scrim or black cards on stands).

I used to be a pro shooter for advertising including Famous Barr, Budweiser Indy Racing, RC boat magazine..etc. My gear mainly consist of L series Canon lenses for sports and outdoors (300 4.0L, 80-200 2.8L both too much lens for watches). I hope to buy a nice Canon Macro lens soon, because of this hobby

Photoshop skills are important also for exposure/color correction and dust removal.

Watches are tough to shoot because of reflections, dust and finger prints. Its alot like working on watches...if you arent in the mood to take your time, you probably shouldnt take pictures until you are.

Nice watch and as some members already said let the modding begin.

Mine is in the middle of a modding process at the moment.

If possible i would like to see some movement shots and the printing between the lugs just to see if it's the same as mine.

Mine , not supplied by Chirs , has a copied ETA movement . For the rest it's OK.

Wear it well

Carpe Diem

Cats

I actually scored this piece from a forum member mint-unworn, not Chris. He claims it is an '07 MBW.

If you look at this ETA comparison: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=76100 my ETA looks exactly like the GEN eta on the left. It has many holes in the gold gears, and a brushed big silver gear. I instantly noticed that It has a better fit and finish than other ETAs Ive owned. I was surprised to see one...I feel lucky!

Ill try to post pics soon. Im waiting for a macro lens. I dont have the tool to put the springbars back. After my nine hour ordeal with a trusty 1665 trying to get the springbars back on, Im afraid... Im thinking watch school.