robsa

Wow, interesting information there, thanks. I will keep an eye on it over the next week and see how much it gains compared to my macbook. Robsa

well, 12 hours later.... its gone from being about 20 seconds fast to 2 seconds so that is much better eh?! The tricky bit now I suppose is slowing it down by 4 seconds, if indeed that will be the case at 8pm tonight. Robsa

It's looking good so far! Just another 20 hours to go then....

it seems ok the guide soid one notch is +- 5 secs so 8 notches=40 secs I hope! it looked exactly the same as in the guide

Well, after reading up on here how to adjust the timing of an ETA movement I finally bit the bullet and had a go myself tonight. I received some jewellery screwdrivers and other bits and pieces in the mail today and felt I was ready so I had a go. I had previously synched my watch with my macbook and knew it was around 40 seconds fast per day so I took the back off, pulled the pin out to freeze the seconds and turned that little screw anticlockwise about 170 degrees. Now all I have to do is check it tomorrow evening to see if its any better! A big thank you to RWG though, I would never of had the balls or knowledge to do it without you guys. regards Robsa

Yep. that's what I thought. Thanks Dizzy.

Wow, go easy By-Tor! I feel like I have been flamed by God. It was not a 'myth' and is nothing to do with replicacenter or anyone else. It was merely an observation that was made by my brother and me. Its true for the bracelets I have and as RWG is my Rep 'home' I thought I would post something up to see if anyone else had noticed this and also to see if I could get some nicer screws. So go easy on me please! I'm very sensitive Robsa

Thanks freddy, this is exactly what I wanted. These look much nicer than the ones on my bracelets. Now all I need to do is see if I can get some in the UK. I will be much happier with these pins in. If I get some I will maybe post up a pic to show what I am on about. It seems that I either have unusually bad screws or I am over fussy.... thanks for RWG to help me out though!

I wasn't really suggesting it was a good way to spot a rep from a distance, as you would need to look closely at the bracelet and therefore probably holding the owners arm! I just noticed that, when comparing my rep GMT II Ceramic with my brothers gen, this stood out. We were both amazed at what a good rep it was, but he also picked up quickly on the bracelet screws. The Rolex genuine ones have really nice, well machined heads to the screws and the rep ones stand out. I know there are a lot easier tells if you know about watches (for instance it has a wrong hand stack, rehaut, crown guards etc) or if have the genuine to compare it to, but this is one thing that even someone who doesn't know much about watches could pick up on. Or so I felt.

Ah yes, I mean bracelet of course, many apologies. Yes, the screws in the bracelet. They are cheap and nasty - as I said the heads or frequently off centre and when you unscrew one and take a beak at it then you can see how cheap they are. What I was wondering is whether I can could buy better quality ones. And I should mention I have noticed this on the 2 Rollie reps I have (A Sub LV with a genuine ETA I got 2 years ago and a GMT II ceramic(WHS, ETA) I got from Chris recently. Don't get me wrong, I am amazed how great a rep the GMT II is, just noticed the bracelet screws are the same as in my Subbie. Crap! So have I just got unlucky sets of these screws? My feeling is that they are all like this but obviously I could be wrong. regards Robsa

Evening all I think a really easy quick tell that someone is wearing a Rollie Rep is that the screws in the strap are so cheap and nasty looking. It only takes a second or two to see that the screws are nasty. Many do not have the little slit in the top (so you can unscrew it, name is evading me momentarily) halfway across the end of the little bar if you understand what I mean. I was wondering if these little bars are a standard size - that is, could I go tot a jewellers and buy some good quality ones which would fit? I have always thought that this a an easy tell which could possibly be rectified relatively cheaply. I am sure that I am not the first person to bring this up but could not find anything by doing a search so I apologise if I have missed a post on it. Thoughts anyone? Robsa

Hmn Happened to come across this site while reading up on tourby's. They claim to be seeling a Rollie Daytone rep with an ETA 7750 movement for

Ahh, well, by the looks of things my new Rollie loses that a day! So, hopefully I can persuade the old watchmaker down the road to adjust it for me... thanks again guys

20 secs a day! My old IWC loses far less than that a week! I guess thats the difference between buying a rep and owning the real thing?!

Ah, thank you Toad. I will be reading your post with interest. One thing though, it looks like it will need a tweak concerning timekeeping. Should I wait for awhile? ie Does it need to 'bed in'? It seems rather fast at the mo - gained about 2 seconds in the last hour or so! I will check her this time tomorrow. My gen IWC is from the 60's and keeps perfect time! And if I can adjust it straight away - after some bungled mess I got myself into last time I tried doing anything to a watch - should I take her to a watchmaker? regards Robsa

Evening all! Well, finally picked up my new watches from Eurotimez... and they are fantastic! I am so pleased with them. I have a Rolex GMT II ceramic (WHS) and an Omega Seamaster (non chrono). My bro has a real Rollie GMT Master II and I fell in love with it when I saw it. I have told myself I will buy a real one if I manage to sell the book I am writing. I love the Seamaster too. The GMT II is so lovely! And heavy and gorgeous and shiny. I will try and take some pics after my battery has charged... I will have a quick search for taking photos on the board. So a big thanks to Chris @ eurotimez for the great watches! Now all I have to do is wait for my Deep Sea Dweller to arrive and then I can turn my attention to a nice Pammie and perhaps a Montblanc too! Robsa

Yes, this is true. Both my Bro's have Rollies... having said that, I have my fathers old IWC which I love dearly. It keeps such incredible time, considering its 40 years old or something. But I am treating it to a new strap...

Hi All! Well, I have just come into a small windfall and decided that, as my poor Rollie LV sub is currently dead I would treat myself. So I have just ordered not one, not two... but Three reps from Chris! I am practically wetting myself! I have ordered: A deepsea (They look amazing!), a GMT 2 ceramic, WHS (My bro has a real one and I want to see if he notices mine isn't... and a plain blue Seamaster. Now, it's just the long wait...... argh... I have also paid to become a proper member too. This site is absolutely invaluable as far as I am concerned. Especially after all the rejections I have received from watchsmiths about even looking at my Reps... Well done RWG! Thank you!!! regards Robsa

Wow, thanks guys. Is it worth it? I mean, how much are these ETA movements? It will be at least

Last year one of the markers on my green LV Sub dropped off. This was becaue one of my case clamps is broken and so I kept banging it to drop the movement back into place. Aanyway, I decided this would be a nice, easy job that I could do myself... on my lap on a magazine whilst watching TV... hmn. Classic case of overcojnfidence I feel. The upshot of all this is I have killed my watch! The stem no longer goes back in the movement. It's a genuine ETA by the way. I can slide the stem back in and it goes in so far but simply pulls back out again. I tried pushing a paperclip in the hole and pushing it in but the same thing happens. Oh, er, I forgot to put the time to 12 as well! Have I totally killed it...? ( So what I want to know is, all you watchsmith types... Am I missing something or have I simply buggered it up completely? If I have then I will use it as a practise watch. And next time I will make sure I have the correct tools and a clean, well lit and quiet environment to work in - not a butterknife and can of WD40! Robsa

I wonder if it would act like graphite as a lube? If you completely cleaned the movement then zapped it? I wonder how much it is? Would be well worth doing it to a cheap automatic movement if the price was right... imagine if it worked! An automatic movement that doesn't need cleaning and re-lubing!

Hi all I don't know how many of you have seen the P2i Plasma Coating technology which is just appearing (http://www.p2i-labs.co.uk/index.html) but it puts an incredibly thin layer on the item which is impervious to oils and liquids. It can penetrate materials on a sub-microscopic level as it is a plasma. They can put it on anything - a normal shirt for instance. It will then be totally water resistant and it is permanent! It is impervious to rubbing, folding and bending! I was wondering whether you could do this with a watch or would it not work because of the need for the oils to coat the mechanism? Imagine just being able to put your watch in a cabinet, press a button and a few minutes later Hey Presto! Totally waterproof watch! What do you think? Robsa

Hmn, that's a point. I expect the service is to AR something that hasn't already got it. Would you need to strip the original AR coating off? How can you tell if it has or hasn't got AR already on it? I don't know whether my submariner lens has or not.

So anyway, my ETA Rolex Submariner LV had one of the little tabs in the back break which meant the face dropped down on one side. To remedy this I used to just give it a whack from behind, which did the trick. However, after about a year of this abuse the six o clock marker dropped off (can't say I really blame it). Being a master jeweller (in my head) I read up on this site how to take her apart and thought to myself 'Ah, easy! Pull it apart, superglue the six o clock marker back on, whip it all back together using a new tab to hold the face in. Doddle....' Hmn. Well, I got it apart easy enough. But the first disaster was trying to get the 6 marker glued onto the face. I am an utter ham-fisted nerk of the highest order and ended up getting superglue spilt on the bottom of the dial and none to hold the marker in. After weeping like a girl and hours and hours of shaky handed fiddling about I DID finally manage to get the 6 marker back in with no glue though. No doubt ready to drop out next time I sneeze with it on my wrist. And of course I could not make a new fixing tab to hold the watch working firmly in either. Thought I would make one out of a coke can. WHAT was I thinking? Working on a watch movement seems to be slightly more delicate than working on an old mini engine... And then, just to top it all off... I cant get the winder back in. I have a nasty feeling I have upset something inside it! Well, it does go in and sort of half manages to change the hands, but it comes straight back out again. So my questions are... if anybody could be so kind as to offer advice.... 1) Is it worth me getting someone to fix it? 2) With the winder not going in any more (or rather, it pushes back in, but slides straight out again) have I screwed my movement? 3) How easy is it to get a replacement dial? 4) How easy is it to get the tiny little tabs that secure the movement in the case? I only have one. I tried to upload a piccy of my dial but I only have my phone camera but it is rather crappy. The wobbly red outline shows where there is superglue on the dial... memories of airfix kits came rushing back I can tell you... Any answers will be gratefully received. regards Robsa

Ah, sweet! Great minds eh? Well, I am watchless at the moment (I took apart my Submariner LV and now I killed it, sob!) but will be buying 3 in January so I may be interested in the AR coating then. Of course, it would be nice to see a review of one already done... Actually, that's a point - I could get my sub lens AR'd! Nowt to lose really, as I can always put it on another Sub or perhaps get my one fixed one day. So I could be up for it before Chrimble, depending on dates and so forth, otherwise I will certainly be up for it in January. -Robsa!