sssurfer

Really, I did not notice that. What a shame! All I can suppose is that the watch is behind the cap...

Hi all, a friend of mine (who believes I am an expert in reps) asked me to find a watch for him. He wants a Datejust w/ Swiss movement, white face, roman numerals, and Oyster bracelet. Now, as a matter of fact, I am a complete ignorant about Rolex. So here I am asking any help from our experts in the matter. I surfed all 'our' dealers sites and albums and I seem to have found it @: Silixprime (model rols022) King (model Rolex-223 Swiss) Aspire (model W133 -- other models have the tilted "V"(5) marker) perhaps EL (models dj16, dj18, dj27, dj34, dj42, dj47, dj67, dj76). I am still unsure on whether EL's ones are in Swiss movt. I asked him about movement, crystal, and size, and his reply was: sapphire tw maker standard man size 36mm I may think that that 'tw maker' stands for his answer about the movement, and that it means 'made in TW'. Still, price would suggest differently. I asked again EL for a confirmation, but had no reply so far. And I would like to have my friend waiting not too long. So my questions are: 1) Do you know whether those models from EL are Asian or Swiss movement? 2) Which are the major flaws that one has to look for when considering Datejust models? 3) Do you know of any other dealer that is able to provide a watch like that I am looking for? 4) Or, shortly, do you already know if any model among those I took in consideration is better or worse than others? 5) Any other suggestion about the issue? Really thanks, sss :sss: P.S.: I see I made a typo in the topic description. Sorry, I found no way to edit it.

2 User(s) are reading this topic (0 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users) 2 Members: sssurfer, Finepics Nice to meet a vampire fellow, Mark. And why your name is in italics, and mine not???

Ouch Mark, you got me! I was completely unaware about this project of yours. So you found an UK company performing real PVD coating and beadblasting, and you kept your mouth shut? Tsk tsk tsk!... Ok, seriously: great project! Much more personal and deep-thought than the majority we all know (mines included...) By chance, do I know anything about that lume? That is a thing that I really want to see, how you will be able to get a hobnail dial from a flat one!

Thanks, Rob! I just had my local watchsmith measure them. He had to use a gauge (too low clearance to use a micrometer), and he said: Seconds ???mm Minute 1.00mm Hour 1.5mm These values are pretty close to what you said, so I am now confident that this of mine is a movement like the one you considered and I can use your values. REALLY THANKS! :sss:

Posdaftar NEVER worked with me. Time from Malaysia to my hands: 3-4 weeks.

mysql, judging on the power reserve gauge in your video your watch does not look as a low-cost rep (maybe one from Joshua?) If so, I think that you should definitely call for a replacement. Alternatively, being The Zigmeister inclined on a loose hand problem, you could ask your watchsmith to give the hand's tube a gentle narrowing. The outcome is uncertain, though, and this could prevent you from asking for a replacement.

Thanks for your reply, Mark. Don't open your Arktos only to answer my question. I have a 104 with that movt already @ my watchsmith, that just need to get hands removed (the 104, not the watchsmith) and measurement done. I was just trying to get a fast answer here, should anyone have the info. About removing the bezel: I also looked at that watchsmith when he removed the bezel from my 028 (not a rotating bezel though, as you know). He positioned a chisel somewhere between the case and the bezel, and while firmly holding the case in his hands he asked his colleague to give the chisel a single, sharp hammer shot. That operation actually left a small mark, a scratch, on the case -- but it was on that part that gets covered by the bezel when it is reassembled, so no real problem. May I also ask you which is that NSEW problem needing a fix?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/TAIKONAUT-Oval-Strap-Ho...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/for-PANERAI-CARTIER-OEM...7QQcmdZViewItem

Hi, by chance does anyone know the diameter of the central pin (hands' pin) of the common Asian Automatic modified 21J movement that comes in many current PAM reps? Or, shortly, if hands designed to fit the 6497 movement would fit that movement too? Thanks, sss :sss:

carabinieri would not tell a pam from a small burnout hamburger, they would just ask you why are you carrying such a hamburger on your wrist When will you arrive to Italy? Which city first? How long are you going to stay?

Wow, I feel a noob. Ok, here are my little projects: 028: Case already to palpatine for PVD coating. Hope to get PVD coated palpatine crown too. Dial already to Finepics for reluming. Plan to send Finepics the crystal and one of the new cyclops for AR coating too. Plan to get a Finepics' 2893 datewheel too. 027: This was a low-cost watch that I got from TTK, with a PVD-like case but a flat (non-hobnail) dial. A new SS case is on its way to me from eBay (UK seller recommended by Finepics, nice price). Stem already installed on a Lello crown, waiting for a palpatine crown. 104 and/or 090: I know you are likely going to scream, but I plan to put gold hands on at least one of them. davidsenjpn already contacted for the new hands. ...And, on all, naturally the new cyclops that are coming!!!

That's it. Thanks, Rob! :sss:

I too had been interested in this beautiful watch some months ago, and from my search the best model resulted that provided by Eddie Lee. Quite pricey (I seem to remember somewhat between 350 and 400 USD), but the only one that could sustain comparison with gen. But Thomasng is undoubtly and by far the undisputed authority on APRO here. Sure you'd better hear from him.

Very interesting and entertaining point. So, I am just unable to figure out why I am wearing watches that noone recognises, noone knows about, noone even heard of. That just, when I look at it on my wrist, I happen to think: but how I like this watch! BTW, I would use the word 'extended' rather than 'expanded', as the theory looks somehow related to Dawkins' extended phenotype idea.

@ anyone unsure: C'mon, folks, can you figure out how much any cyclops of this quality will be worth to any watchsmith? Does it tell you anything? You cannot find sapphire cyclops for your PAMs, 1.7x mag, anywhere else in the world! Correction: you may find it from OP... provided you have a gen... at many times this price (8x? 10x?). We starters are getting several pieces each, so it is unlikely that a new order is going to be repeated in a short time. And even in that case, costs will be higher due to lower number of pieces. This is an unique occasion, don't miss it... BUMP!

archie, I copied your post on WT and RWI too. I just added a pray about not to duplicate orders from other boards. I wonder if it could be appropriate to also add a point-out to how much these cyclopses are going to be worth to watchsmiths & co... and/or how much a cyclops this quality would cost, if one had to ask a repairment shop for it... ...provided that the shop is able to find it. @all who posted thir comments: thanks for your appreciation guys.

Surely it is ok to me that we start a new thread for the orders, just please don't ask me to post it with my poor English! I also think we should post it (or at least a reference to it) in the General Section in order to gain visibility. And we could also post in the other forums as well. BTW, I plan to be in for 8.

We all think the same way too. Archie, finepics, at this point my only concern is about the lacking of a prototype. True, this lens is not so extreme like the previous one... but we already verified how theory and reality can differ. Devil lurks in the detail.

All you, be sure we are going to post public advices as soon as we shall be done in selecting the lens and the company. But 8 USD are just about glass lenses. We are actually sure that with glass one cannot achieve any better magnification than about 1.3-1.4x -- which is what RBJ obtained. In theory one could go up to 1.6x, but at cost of unacceptable circular distortion, white halos, and so on, that make it unpracticable. While 1.3-1.4x already is quite an improvement on rep magnification (currently 1.1-1.2x), if we use a sapphire lens we can go up to 1.7x (1.6x in the worst case, 1.8x in the best case), and we feel it is worth.

All those tolerances are absolutely acceptable. Details: ROC -2%: no perceptible differences, except when the date window is at 3.5 mm or more from the lens, and even in this case just magnification = 1.7x instead of 1.8x. ROC +2%: no perceptible differences. Diameter -0.1 mm: ok, this means 5.9 mm, so I suppose we can use them on those models with gen cyclops 5.9 mm... provided we are able to distinghuish them. CT -0.1 mm: no perceptible differences. It seems that we can relax on our concerns about tolerances, we are not going to risk a significant percentual of garbage lenses. This is due both to lower tolerances (0.1 mm, not 0.25 anymore) and to less critical lens. To me, it's ok to give finepics a go should not archibald's company reply in reasonable time. Folks, I know we all are quite tired. Hold on, we are almost on our goal... ...hopefully.

Yes RBJ, surely the lens you did already makes for a noticeable improvement on current rep cyclops. We are trying to verify if an even better tradeoff between magnification and distortion is possible because we are perfectionists... we simply can't keep out from that. As it will require sapphire or flint glass, it is going to cost sensibly more (if any). So, at least, 'your' lens is sure to hold as a welcome option to anyone not willing to spend lots of bucks. One should also consider that, that lens being a surplus item, we don't know how many of them they have in stock. Better we collect all infos and options before making any choice...

I also vote for diameter = 6 mm. 5.9 up to 6.2 should not be distinguishable from 6 to the naked eye. And 6 mm will provide higher magnification (but please note, also higher circular distortion as well) than larger diameters. This is because, given fixed thickness and edge thickness, a larger diameter stands for a larger Radius Of Curvature (see picture), and hence lower magnification and distortion. But please also consider that, when enlarging the diameter, distortion decreases more than magnification. Actually, it is possible that OP relied upon larger diameters on most recent models exactly because they were worried from high distortion. That said, do we all agree on 6 mm rather than higher values as cyclops diameter?

I feel as we are coming to the same position... and this is pretty soothing, IMO. And... OI812, we do not forget that this all was born under a thread of yours.