sssurfer

Thanks, now it is clear. I suppose that the original Asian movement in your J12 had a date window in the proper place. If so, then you can go easy with a 2893. The 2893 is a very thin movement, AFAIK all the Asian movements with an eye @4:30H are thicker than it.

Oh well, at least the seller has the decency to sell reps at rep prices. When the watch is really too bad to even look at it, he even gives the box included. Not a big issue, just another case of selling reps on Ebay, not really a scam.

The movement is simply defective. Is it a 7750 or an "Asian 21J"?

I can guarantee that you will end up spending way more on tools and ruined watches than what you would spend in reps (being there, doing that). .... But it's a lot fun!

Well, they actually were four guesses, but I'll allow as well. - You wonder what series of events led to him or her choosing, then buying such a watch? -- A LITTLE - You wonder if they are watch cognoscenti? -- ESPECIALLY - You wonder how much disposable wealth they have? -- NO - You wonder why they chose this or that colour/model/etc/ of IWC, AL&S...? -- A LITTLE (related to #1) 100% agree. Just, the problem is how to decode it.

To me that 127 looks good, and your wonderful pics make it even better. The CG lever not sitting exactly flush with the CG is a minor. Also, replacing the 005 movement was a correct way to go. That movement costs less than 10 GBP from Cousinsuk.

No, the DG2813 is a copy of the Miyota 8215. A decent Asian copy of the ETA 2824 and 2892 is the ST18. Very thin (3.65mm). Now you got me quite confused. Do you want to put an ETA 2893 in your watch, or what? Also, the J12 has date @4:30. How do you think to cope with it? Anyway, here is a thread on RepGeek that might help you. They mention the DG3804B.

Just to let anyone know that Lello already found a source for dial printing in EU, and he is currently testing their skill and accuracy. I saw a 090 dial sample, it curiously revealed an outstanding overall quality (exceptional crispness and precision) oddly coupled with some incredible faults in the design of some most relevant features like the shape of the number "6". Nothing that cannot be avoided by constantly staying after the maker and checking his work step by step, I bet. The opposite (no gross mistake but cheap print quality) would have been much worse, IMO. Also, before taking final judgements on Davidsen's dials, I humbly suggest you take a look at his next watches (to be released on March, hopely). You might get pleasantly surprised -- on some of them at least. @PAMman: I suppose you mentioned the 027 rep dial just as an example of good print quality. Lacking the "sunken" power reserve gauge, I would actually feel it not so very accurate as a whole...

There are several different "Asian 21J" movements. If you are meaning the DG2813 (the most common), it is: Diam: 25.6 mm (11 1/2 lignes) Height: 5.25 mm

That is the most beautiful example I ever saw of one of my favourite models, lani! Congrats!

Not really any judgement. But if I happen to see anyone with a special watch (IWC, AL&S, AP, PP, OP -- NOT Rolex, NOT Cartier, NOT Bulgari etc) I admit I feel somewhat curious about him/her/it.

Awesome! I cannot even tell you how much I like it!

The marks on the bezel from 12 to 3 are not a matter of what kind of rep it is, let alone of what movement. They are a matter of which series the genuine is. PAM 024 with OP 6527 case do not have those marks, all other 024 have them. PAM 024 with OP 6527 case are A series and a few B series. I saw gen 024A and 024B pics with both polished or brushed, markless bezel. So you are likely to have a correct 024A or 024B rep. Also, lacking AR is correct to A and B series. Naturally this is no reason for stripped lugs and crooked marks.

Exactly. I also have to say that Tony performed outstandingly with me on several former deliverings. Too bad he looks he's changing his way.

Curious, here we say: Devil lurks in the details. Not a too bad clasp anyway, I would say. But... Tony already emailed.

Plenty of great people looking at this thread now. Thanks Freddy for your insight. This watch is going to go back to Tony, unless gioarmani is very interested on it. And I think I am going to go back to my Panerai niche -- this sortie was not very appointing, IMO. Anyway, here is a better pic of my clasp back:

Wow, a gen Daytona owner, and posting on a thread of mine as his first post! Thanks, javier, very appreciated -- and welcome to the forum! On your pics I would say: 1. My crown is decent. 2. My case is thick (as expected). 3. I need to take a better pic at my clasp back.

UPDATE Freddy, Mickey, Takashi, you were correct in your opinion: the movement is 21,600 bph. My watchsmith negated he ever told it was 28,800, he affirmed he just told that this movement should be able to drive the additional wheels required by the secs @6 as it is unusually high in its amplitude beat. He said it is 340-350 (I don't even know what, maybe degrees?) in the best position, i.e. horizontally placed face up, and 240-250 in its worst position, i.e. vertically placed crown side down. On this occasion he explained that the ability to drive the additional wheels is not related to the beat rate (he said that a 21,600 bph movement might work even better than a 28,800), rather it is related to the beat amplitude. On the first occasion that I submitted him the watch, I asked him to tell if the movement was 21,600 or 28,800 bph as I was concerned it might not properly drive the secs @6. So maybe I misunderstood his answer, that I am now honestly unable to recall precisely, by taking a "yes, it should drive them" as a "yes, it is 28,800". So, please experts, I have two new questions for you: 1 - Does it make sense what the watchsmith told me? I mean, do you think true that a 21,600 movement may work even better than a 28,800 movement in powering the additional wheels, provided its beat amplitude is pretty high? 2 - Do you think that a 240/250 - 340/350 beat amplitude is high enough to properly drive the small secs @6? I am asking this as I have to decide on whether sending the watch back to Tommy or what. @Freddy: you were also correct on your guess about the "DAYTONA" text on the dial. The "A"s are not pointed. ---- Also, here are a few other pics: On gioarmani's request, a side shot: Bracelet: Clasp: Back of the clasp (quite unuseful, I suspect): Thanks, sss

RWG-Smell-O-Post.cc??? Unfortunately it does not exist, Vicky! Rather, I see that this board program does not also allow .sml files as attachements. No problem, just take the .sml file, embed it into a .zip file, and post the zip as an attachement.

Be advised that that watch is fantasy. The 140 dial is carbon fiber, and the indices are slightly different. That is just a 104 in a rose gold case. A decent rep of the 140, at a decent price, is here. The rose gold looks a little pale, but it might be the pic. I have no reference about the seller though. His pic looks stolen from another site. Also, Narikaa had exactly the watch in your pic about 1 year ago. He currently is in Thailand, maybe if you PM or email him quickly he can source another one for you.

Unsure about which kind of smell you mean, Vicky. Would you post a sample, so we can help better? When no chemical agents work, one might take in consideration physical agents (heat, UV rays, X/gamma rays) and/or biological (bacterial cultures like yoghourt and the already mentioned burying the strap in earth). But, as you talked of turpentine and mothballs (I have no clue of what Clapham Common Filling Station is, sorry), it looks more like a hydrocarbon smell. In this case bacterial agents are pretty useless unless you have access to those mutated bacteria they use to get rid of petroleoum tides after oil-tanker accidents. So I would try heat at first, especially in combination with some solvents that you already tried at room temperature. Naturally, better 2 hours at 60 (centigrade) degrees that 2 minutes at 1000. You are guaranteed that the sooner or later you will find a temperature+solvent combination that will get you rid of the smell. Probably of the strap too.

That is THE definitive answer, chief! I am now so glad I already stepped into the 'double AR-is-better-than-100% accuracy' path. Just... when am I going to get my crystals back?

Better pass it on to a foe

:blink:

I have to avoid misunderstandings vs Tony: those three watches were from three different dealers (Lvmonia, Tony, and another dealer that I am not going to disclose right now). All them not "our" established collectors, not of "the cartel"... Take it easy, Vicky, no debts on you.