sssurfer

I feel that a few selected supporters should be given the right to use a larger avatar.

Surely we are watched. And, even if not, what's the problem? Paranoia is good. "Trust no one. Keep your laser handy". Excellent suggestions.

Well, original company or else, that is a masterwork. The dial is incredible. The lume -- wow! Oh well...

Stunning indeed. A blue 03-92 was on old dream of mine. Looking at this awesome watch makes my old wound bleed once again.

Thanks everyone! Glad to meet you again as well, dluddy.

Thanks. I had a try. Sold out now, unexpected sales.

Great! Which dealer brings it?

A couple of times I was successful in removing the tube by using this tool that I found in chinese screwdrivers box-sets: This goes into the tube from the inside. Then a few sharp hammer strokes, and the tube came out. It is also a useful tool to push down the stem release button.

Thanks stolikat. I felt that light olive color and swede surface are a perfect match to brushed SS and Ti. That watch is beadblasted SS, but it came out quite decent as well, I believe.

Glad to read that. Well, actually a screw-in press is not mandatory, also a push-down one may work, but a screw-in press allows to press much more smoothly and by applying a very controlled pressure, so that as soon as the bezel pops out you can release the pressure istantaneously and avoid any possible damage to the parts. But I see that I may be picky and other members are successful in working their way out even with less fitted tools.

A fellow replover and new strapmaker made me a gift (thanks, Gigi Spiderman!) of two elephant straps that he made, really soft and comfortable. I thought that I could put those two homemade straps on two of my homemade watches. Here are the results. What do you think?

Both removing a crystal and a bezel requires a crystal press. A screw-in press, not a push-down one. You can remove a bezel+crystal ensemble without a press, just with a watchsmith knife, but it is a very hard and tricky task and you are almost guaranteed you are going to scratch the case and/or to warp the bezel. And to possibly pop out the crystal, which would require a crystal press to get it back in. If you are willing to use a crystal press then post here again, I'll tell you which press to get and how to use it.

Good, my best wishes.

Both the DG2813 and the DG3809 have date, placed exactly in the same position, so if your case+crystal hosted one of those movements it will also accept the other one, no doubt. But if the original movement was a 7750 then the cyclop is placed differently, and you should either move it or use another 7750 again. If you can measure and tell me the distance between the center of the crystal and the center of the cyclops maybe I can guess which movement was originally in. This may be relevant, as the movement also affects the placement of the stem.

Awesome! I vote for blue hands with white lume, and blue strap with white stitching. Maybe also a brushed case+bezel? You should try some digital graphic simulations.

Our inexpensive and loved "Asian 21" (just 25.60mm diameter): DG2813 if you want to make a base model (no seconds). DG3809 if you want small seconds @9. Probably even a 7750 (29.90 mm diameter). Just stay away from the 6497. With its 37.20mm diameter, no hope for it to fit.

Thanks my friends. Nice to meet you all again. As you know, I am a fan of tone-over-tone (tone-on-tone? damn, my poor English)

Yesterday I had an email exchange with the now retired lello. He still has five improved datewheels left for the 2824 Ingy. Anyone interested please PM me, I'll give you lello's email address.

Great find, V! Thanks for the heads up and the link. Just, I don't know whether this is soothening or worsening my feelings for having been forced to give up with my 203 project because of money reasons...

I had two projects for improved datewheels: one for the "Asian 21J" movement (actually DG2813), and the other one for the Seagull PR movement (ST2530). I now had to give up with hope to find a decent print shop in my country able to print those datewheels. I am now releasing here to the public domain the vectorial files I made with correct Panerai font for the DG2813 DW and the ST2530 DW, in hope that someone will come and take over where I left. Each zip file contains the DW in Corel Draw, Adobe Illustrator (both for PC and Mac), and Autocad format. If anyone wants any other format, please just let me know. The DG2813 datewheel is 23.00/17.35mm diameter (out/in). The ST2530 is 27.15/20.80mm. (BTW: the 2892-A2 datewheel, i.e. PAM 027 & 028, is 23.00/17.30mm, almost identical to the DG2813). I was not able to find a source for spare DG2813 or ST2530 datewheels. But a whole DG2813 movement costs 4.95 GBP from Cousinsuk. For the ST2530 datewheel, there is always the option to collect the datewheels from the owners and have them reprinted. Hope this may be useful. Best luck, sss Asian_21J_DW.zip Seagull_DW.zip

It should be zero problem as there are no customs within EU. Possible problems for package lost if you use Italian mail (but you said you don't).

Really very glad to meet you again as well, B!

A friend who recently began strap making granted me with one of his "Hole Straps". These are straps with a hole pattern resembling a rubber strap, but actually made of leather, with all the merits of leather: soft, fresh, and perspiring. Due to the holes, they are even exceptionally soft, fresh and perspiring. I coloured it in grey to match my 028 PVD (color unneveness is intentional). Here is the result: Comments are welcome. Thanks for looking, sss

Unfortunately, no. As I said, it is very specific for the 027/028 reps (and genuines ).

Recently I got some new requests of my cyclops for the PAM 027 and 028 reps. Unfortunately I am not able to make new cyclops as real life is keeping me away from reps (I had my 15-years-long-work book finally published, and now I have to promote it). I told those members how to make a SSS cyclops by themselves. Now it came to my mind that I might post those instructions here too to the public domain, in case other members may need them. I do not know why such a renewed interest on the 027 and 028 these days, but hey. I tried to post this into the "How To" section. But I was told I was not allowed to post there. Mods please move this post wherever it belongs to. First of all: this cyclops is for the 027 and 028 rep with 2892-A2 movement only, with the original 2892-A2 small lens embedded on the date window. I read voices that a former version of my cyclops required removal of that lens. That is not true. My cyclops always worked, it works, and it will ever work, with the original small 2892-A2 lens untouched. Back to the tutorial now. In order to make the cyclops you need: 1. This lens from Anchor Optics, stock number 27233, that you can find on this webpage: http://anchoroptics.com/catalog/product.cfm?id=368 It is 6mm diameter, 12mm focal length, 1.5mm central thickness. 2. A micrometer, or at least a good digital caliper, to measure the cyclops' thickness while your job goes on. 3. Three sheets of sandpaper: one medium grit (400 o 500), one medium-fine grit (about 800), and one fine grit (1000 or 1200). The latter twos made of sandpaper usable with water. 4. One sheet of 3M Micro Finishing Film, 9 micron (light blue), that Cousinsuk sells with the code P1261M. Go to this webpage: http://www.cousinsuk.com/catalog/7/1343/1561.aspx and click on the category: "Micron Abrasive Micro Finishing Film". (With exception for the micrometer, better buying at least two pieces of each item as a backup). The lens you get from Anchor Optics is 1.5 mm thick. You have to make it thinner, by rubbing its flat surface on the sandpaper, until the lens becomes 0.92mm thick (in reality, any thickness from 0.90 up to 0.95mm is ok as well). Better going through this sequence: a. At first use the medium grit sandpaper, until you get down to a thickness of about 1.25mm. b. Then use the medium-fine sandpaper, with water, until you get down to a thickness of about 1.10 mm. c. Then use the medium-fine sandpaper, with water, until you get down to a thickness of about 1mm. d. Finally use the 3M Micro Finishing Film, at dry, until you get down to the final thickness of 0.92mm and the surface you worked on turns polished again. If you happen to notice a few residual micro hairlines on the surface, you can tolerate them as the glue that will seal the cyclops to the crystal will fill them and make them invisible. IMPORTANT: on both using the sandpapers and the 3M micro finishing film, avoid to pass the lens twice on the same point of the sheet. I.e., always use "virgin" abrasive surface. This is because the lens leaves micro splinters of glass where it passes on, and those micro splinters can furrow the lens more deeply than the abrasive. P.S.: the lens from Anchor Optics has a pretty good AR on the convex surface. If you want to preserve it, avoid using solvents. Let me know if you have any questions. Best wishes on your projects, SSS