sssurfer

Oh my. I am. Either you have been a bit of a lurker before registering here, V, or you have great search skills. Congrats.

on a lady: oh, we are halfway to the bed already

http://www.chronometrie.com/watchsounds/watchsoundspage.htm is a great link, but be advised that the "officine panerai" pronounce is incorrect. What is told there is what they in Italy would write "officine panArai".

Awesome job and an enlightening writeup, The Zigmeister. Same here.

Thanks, repaustria. Just, I considered that the link I posted is freely available, while the doc from eta.ch is available only upon registration (to me at least).

@ alant Uhm, this makes me very dubious... As the Santos has no cyclops, I see no point in putting a sandwich crystal on it... Still, your guess is legit... Uhm... Another possible guess is that the crystal is single-layer, and the vapor is inclined to condense always in that same point because of some small unevenness of the inner surface (quite unlikely, I admit). Your simplest solution is removing the crystal and looking at its side with a loupe, it will be easy to tell whether it is single-layer or double-layer. If it is single-layer, then your problem is "just" vapor in the watch. If it is double-layer, you may either simply replace it, or try to get rid of any vapor entrapped between the two layers by gently heating it with a hairdryer (gently, not to damage the glue). Best wishes, let us know how this comes out.

Also: http://www.boley.de/pbilder/explosion/ESA%5CESA2893%2Epdf

Surely I am. We have no need for an IPA here. What we write defines [almost] exactly how it must be pronounced.

The Power Reserve B&R definitely exists. The problems are: 1. It is a BR 01-XX model (namely BR 01-97), not a 03-XX. Hence, a 46mm model. 2. In the rep the PR gauge is poorly placed. Honestly, I would not even think about wearing a 46mm BR unless my wrists are real trunks. Boys, those beasts are HUGE!

Boys, life must be hard to you whose languages do not have a 1:1 (uhm... ok, 0.9:1) writing/pronounce relation!

That was the so-called 'sandwich crystal', there have already been a few post about it. Not all the sapphire crystals are that way, rather quite a few: most Submersibles, the $108 PAM 104 from Josh, and a few others. The inside layer is mineral glass (I never heard of plexi inside, it could even be though). It is that way because of the need to make a hole in it in order to get the socket for the cyclops (the so called "recessed cyclops"). This all is aimed to get a longer rehaut between the dial and the cyclops, so to get a better magnification and more room to the hands too. Personally, I find it a genius touch. A thin sapphire layer is less expensive than a thick sapphire crystal but it provides the same scratch resistance where this is needed, i.e. on the outside of the crystal. And recessing the cyclops allows using a cyclops with higher ROC i.e. lesser cushion distortion. I just wonder why not all the rep makers make it that way. Maybe because the refraction index of the glue between the two layers is a very critical factor to prevent the occurrence of Newton rings, as sapphire and glass have quite different refraction indices. So maybe that that glue needed peer research and design, and it is now sort of a secret by the maker who originally made it. The only problem with those sandwich crystal is that you cannot have them AR coated with the high-temperature treatment as it would make the glue melt. Not a great issue, as the very presence of a cyclops already prevents that treatment. Your eye doctor must have used the low-temperature treatment (that also gives explaination for the subsequent scratches).

heartily reciprocated, V. And congrats on your guide! :lol:

Folks, those watches of yours are all awesome! They are even making me think about cuckolding the PAM for one good time. Just, those super-reps are discouragingly priced...

Yes, dagger swan neck 6497 are Asian (sorry, no Swiss ETA here as far as I know), and that is a don't-worry behaviour on Asian movements.

Thanks, Pix! Now I got it clear.

Complete noob on HBB here. There is an issue that keeps getting me confused. Silix' 'lite' HBB and Joshua's 'full' HBB look as they have very different patterns on their bezels' side: plain/smooth on Silix', shagreened/knurled on Joshua's. Silix: Joshua: The smooth pattern on Silix' HBB looks exactly the same as on even cheaper reps around (Joshua's included, w/ Asian 21J). Still, noone seems to care about it. Is that because those are just different genuine models? The one from Silix is correct as well? Or what? And especially: any lite version around with the knurled bezel?

It looks the one that I am currently using. You won't find any better cost/performance ratio. Jump on it.

Here is all I can say: If you can find a 2892-A2 with correct engraving on the rotor, JUMP ON IT! I already spent waaay more than 1000$ on my 028, and too much money on reps in the last few months, these are the only reasons for me not to jump on one of these right after a confirmation. The 2892-A2 PAM 027 is a model that, datewheel and cyclops modded, even a Paneristi cannot tell from a gen other than opening the case. And if with a correct "OFFICINE" text engraved on the rotor, a rep that cannot be told at all! A model with the best movement around (according to The Zigmeister), PR indication (the only really useful complication in my personal opinion), made in just 500 pieces (a true collectors' piece)!... Slurp!... On the other hand, if those last pieces have the usual incorrect "OFFICNE" engraving on the rotor, they still make for an investment to consider. In the end, my 028 is the only PAM that I would even wear on a 'risti party...

I got mine from Ofrei, but I see they are not selling it anymore. If you do not want to spend $$$ you may try their Horotec models MSA07.110 ($97.50) or, better, MSA07.152 ($138) as well. But I have no experience on these presses. You may find them on this page of the Ofrei site. Scroll down to about midpage. You may also take in consideration this one from cousinsuk. Did you already check the bay?

Agree. Also very original, to start posting just to tell something like that. I would even bet this is not a new poster (or a new guy ), but just a new nick to someone who cut some poor figure here.

Kruzer, doesn't it come with the "OFFICNE" spell on the rotor?

Davidsen's watches -- especially his mos recent, 'ultimate' watches -- most likely are some of the best out-of-the-box reps one could get. Provided that that one does not get so unlucky to get a flawed piece the way it happened to our ever-loved V. Still, a complete modding by The Zigmeister simply outperforms any out-of-the-box watches. DSN lume is very good, but as far as I know it was not Superluminova, until very recent times at least. I heard that DSN is soon going to release models with real SL. Maybe his most recent models are SL lumed already, I don't know that for sure. Also, as far as I know DSN's fix for the short cannon pin is a cosmetic one, while The Zigmeister's fix is definitive. And so on. In the end, I would say that DSN watches make for an excellent choice to anyone who do not want to take the hassle to select the best rep of his preferred model and have it furtherly modded by The Zigmeister.

Completely agree. I even seem unable to accept that the Ferrari are Panerai. Frogmen and racing cars: an unlikely matching.

Both those tutorials/reviews are great. Thanks! I am using a press exactly like the first one in Edge's tutorial, and I am fully appointed with it. The screw-down mechanics allows for a very controlled push action. The only thing that I can add is: use the largest dice that fits your crystal.

The 229 is my first favourite