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Thanks, sneed and M! I'll bring the insert in for a shave and see how it goes tomorrow. Other than that issue, it's a remarkable out-of-the-box rep. It's tempting to respond with, "It better be, for that price" until I remember how much guys were willing to spend on WM9s not too long ago. Never thought I'd be a modern Sub guy, but I believed the hype! And you'd better believe the hype! (Except for the bit about the gen inserts fitting unmodified...)

So close...

So I finally decided to go with a modern Sub and ordered one of TC's insert-less V4 16610s. At the same time, I was able to source a genuine 16610 insert from a friend. Both the watch and the insert arrived today. Unfortunately, I can't get them to get together. Off the case, the insert snaps into the bezel ring perfectly. But once the bezel is pressed onto the mid-case, pop goes the insert! It seems like the metal lip around the crystal is pushing against the inner edge of the insert. I have zero experience with modern Submariners, so I have to ask some basic questions: Is this normal? When I read about people working their thumbs around the circumference of the insert, are they doing this while the bezel is already mounted? Right now, my thumbs and fingertips are killing me. They haven't felt this awful since the time I mounted a particularly tight set of wire-bead Specialized cyclocross tires on my bicycle's rims. "Shut the door! I'm naked!"

I used to recommend the quartz Speedy, too, until some genius decided to bollix up its dial. Now the 6 o'clock register reads "15/30/45/60" while the sub@3 has "8/16/24"!

Someone sold this "6240" on the auction site last month: 160786973279 There's not one gen piece on it, but I'd like to know where the faux-Millerighe pusher came from.

B, screwdowns first showed up on the 6240 in 1965. The early pushers look different to the later versions, and the 6240 midcase has more in common with the 6239/41.

Looking very good! But... You want to keep the DW subdial hands (unless they're giving you problems) and replace the main hands with the Yuki units. Yuki subdial hands are much skinnier than the gen hands.

More! More Rolex!

3707

That is beautiful and well worth the wait. It looks like you've been wearing it a lot! Glad I could help.

I don't know if a round '3' on a clasp represents a litmus test, so I can't comment. But aside from that '3', is there anything else that's questionable about the clasp? The "ROLEX", coronet, and assorted squiggles all look correct and clearly defined to me.

Maybe someone can correct me, but I was under the impression that the Phong 6263 cases have changed over time. For example, the one that ubiquitous used in his 6265 build is much nicer than the one shown on the J.A.W. website. I had never looked at Phong's gen/rep comparison photos before, and I would argue that the rep case pictured is visually inferior, overall, to DW's 6263. As for the Yuki and NDT 6263s, I don't think anyone has ever made a detailed examination of either case.

DW was legit once, and sold very good Tudor kits at that price. Things change, and I'm out a few hundred dollars.

Find a Tap 10 (0.9mm) stem for your 7734. That should fit the DW crown, or any gen crown (700 or 703) you might use.

Have a fantastic Saturday!

Well.. What do YOU think?

I have that same wallet, from the factory outlet in Calgary! But mine's a lot darker ever since I fell into a pool while it was on me...

Thanks! As far as I know, mine is the only Carrera I've seen with a negative-colors datewheel. Which could mean that something strange (but awesome) happened during a service! The neat thing is that it's not actually white-on-black; the background is a dull bluish gray, just like the subdials and the tachy ring. Close, but not quite! Those are three 1153Ss on top. Mine is a '70 or '71, and the other two are a few years younger. Everything but the lower-left Autavia (which has a Valjoux 72) is powered by a Chronomatic movement.

Mine's the one in the middle:

All of the Luminova 1016 dials I've seen have been T<25s. I'd love to see a SWISS MADE, too.

If the 2 o'clock pusher doesn't stop the sweep hand, you've got problems. Pushing @2 should stop the hand, pushing @4 should reset both the sweep hand and the minute counter at 3 o'clock. The running seconds at 9 o'clock should keep turning as long as the movement is charged. The date complication is not a quickset, so changing date can be a chore. The shortcut is to advance the hands past midnight to move the datewheel, reverse to 9-10 o'clock, then advance again.

How nice would an all-brass 7031 look, I wonder?

Anyone wearing an Explorer is a friend of mine. But I'm wearing a Daytona today!

Subdial hands on the left look too fat. The ones on the right look too thin. Sorry, Goldilocks. The subdial hands of Phong look good to me, though. modelizer: That handset would look better if the hour and minute didn't have that those pinched "handles" on their tails. My old CWP hands had the same shape, but they didn't have the edge running down the centers.

JoeyB, have you got a flatbed scanner near you? Might work better than a macro!