Dudemeister

Tag Link Chrono and Tag Aquaracer Chrono, both with 7750 movements. The Blue dial versions are absolutely awesome. And both are considered some of the most accurate reps available. You won't be disappointed.

Bump... No one with any Navitimer bracelet parts or an ETA date wheel ????

There are no cheap hotels during the big conventions like CES. Everything triples in price, even the "off-strip" dives charge a couple of hundred bucks a night. If your company is not paying or reimbursing you for your stay, you're better off finding someone to share the expenses with. Even places like Whiskey Pete's Casino in Primm (20 miles south on i15) which usually charge $20-25 per night start charging as much as $150 during these periods. Cabs, especially from the convention center to the hotels and from the airport will cost you $30 minimum. Bottom line is that everything is very expensive during this time and you're better off staying away or finding someone to share the costs with. Good luck.

I updated the original post. I no longer need the Rolex links, but I'm still looking for the Navitimer end link. I thought I had one, but the person offering it backed out at the last moment. I'm also still on the lookout for the date wheel and the stem.

Well, I've been following this debate for a while, but I guess it's time I chimed in. I work for a PC manufacturer and I do product development engineering, basically I design the product. So you'd figure I'm a PC, right? Well not really, at home I have an iMac, one custom built PC w/dual boot Win XP and Win 7, a 14" Compal notebook running OSX 10.5.6 which I keep in the living room in case I need quick access to the internet, and a 15.4" Compal notebook running Win 7 which I hardly use. On a side note, for those that never heard of Compal, they are the second largest notebook manufacturer (ODM) out there: 1. Quanta 2. Compal 3. Wistron 4. Inventec 5. ASUS 6. Uniwill Anyway, back to PC vs. Mac. I use both because they both have their strengths and weaknesses, so I use whichever one is best for the job. I think that OS X is the better OS when compared to Microsoft, including Windows 7. Yes, Windows 7 has gone a long way to fix some of the horrible bugs and abysmal performance of Vista, but it still doesn't compare to OS X in robustness, speed and sheer elegance of design. However, Windows has some software that simply isn't available for the Mac platform, or the versions on the Mac platform are not as well developed. For example I do a lot of video editing and encoding. I edit the video on my Mac using FinalCut Pro, as I think it's the best tool for the job, but the encoding options that are available do not give me enough control over the encoding parameters, so I use the PC for that. I also do some DVD authoring. On the Mac, DVD Studio Pro has 99% of the features one would need to produce professional quality DVDs. The closest thing on the PC used to be Scenarist, which cost anywhere from $5K to $25K depending on configuration. There are some newer tools available now for the PC (like Adobe CS4 Production Suite), but none that can do what DVD Studio Pro does. Then there's the issue of security. Someone mentioned that the Mac OS got hacked in a matter of days of being released, true, but it was hacked so it can be used on a PC platforms, not for security purposes. I use my Mac for all the banking, for my e-mail, etc. I don't have to worry about being hacked, infected with viruses or spyware, or having my identity hijacked simply because the OS is so ridden with security holes like Windows is. The bottom line is that the Windows OS is targeted daily by hackers, whereas the Mac OS is not quite there in their sights, or maybe it's the fact that it's underlying core is a version of Linux. Most virus and spyware infections take advantage of Microsoft's activex function to do their stick, and on a Mac that code doesn't do anything. And then there are the games. Well, that's no contest, There are hundreds of games for PCs and very feew for Macs. Even though Macs have capable hardware most game developers simply don't bother porting their games to Macs because they claim that there aren't enough Macs to make it worth their while. THAT is the lamest excuse I ever heard, and about a year ago I had the opportunity to talk to a rep from a major game developer (which will remain unnamed), and I told him what I thought of that: There are 10 PC for every mac out there, but if you take in consideration the configurations of those PCs, less than 10%of them would be capable of running games. These are the cheap <$600 PC that everyone buys. While a lot of Macs were bought for business use, over 80% of the ones sold have hardware capable of running most games. So all things considered, there are nearly as many Mac users out there as there are PC users that could be possible buyers. AND if you take in consideration that PC game piracy is rampant, the Mac platform looks even more appealing. Well I got a polite "we'll look int it at our next board meeting", and I'm sure it ended there. Well, enough ranting. I'm a Mac and I'm a PC. I like the Mac better, but I'm not about to get rid of my PC anytime soon. So that's my nickel's worth on the subject.

UPDATED 12/6/09 I posted this in the "I want to Buy" section, but it doesn't seem to get much traffic, so I'm posting here as well. I hope that the moderators won't take offense, but if you do feel free to remove it. Anyway, a couple of months back I bought a few watches from one of our members, but some of the bracelet links were not in the original package. The seller sent me the missing links by regular mail, but unfortunately it got lost, and since there's no tracking number I'm afraid they're gone for good (it's been well over a month since they were mailed). Anyway, I'm looking for the following items: 1-2 links for a Rolex Comex SeaDweller. NO LONGER NEEDED. I found a couple of links from and older GMT II I sold a while ago. They were polished, but using 1500 grit sand paper I turned them into nearly perfect matches for the Comex bracelet. I can now finally wear this watch. 1 SEL for a Breitling Navitimer. This is for a Navitimer 50th anniversary, but I believe the end links are the same on most Navi reps. I'm also looking for 2 other items not related to bracelets: ETA wheel for a 2836-3, with the date font to match a Breitling SOSF. Winding stem for 2836-2 above. If you have any of the above items, let me know how much you'd like for them. Here are some pics of what I need. Navitimer: As you can see there are no other links between the non-removable ones and the "split" ones at the clasp. It would really be nice to get 2 links (one for each side), but I'll settle for one just so I can wear the watch. Thanks for looking Thanks, Chris P.

Actually, what he's looking for is kind of a fantasy watch. It's a darker metallic blue dial and bezel like the one on the TT version. I don't think there is such a thing, at least I can't find one at the Rolex site. The one Gioarmani reviewed is the Light blue Ceramic. That replicates the Rolex blue ceramic on white gold

I think that would fit my Llama .380 Auto. Model III. It's a small 3/4 size 1911 frame, so it should fit in that space.

That is a great looking watch Lani, is the AR on your on both sides, or only one? I have an Ayerton Senna version which I love. The satin finish on the case and bracelet, and that beautiful blue with it's metallic hues make this one of my favorite watches. Other than the AR, the only thing I'd want for mine is some decent lume on the hands and actual lume on the square hour marker on the inner tachy bezel to match the gen. I'm actually considering opening the watch and doing it myslef one of these days. Anyway, wear it proudly Lani.

Thank you, that's a lot of useful information there. So the question remains, should I do any changes to this? does it look good as is? BTW, I'm the exact opposite from you, I can see the difference, but my hearing is shot after nearly 40 years of loud rock, so I can't even hear the ticking at all.

Very interesting, I never knew that. IS this the case with most "vintage" Rolex watches? I seem to remember looking at fairly old Rolexes a while ago, and their seconds sweep looked smooth to me, certainly smoother than your typical 21,600bph movement. Does the 1665 have some kind of special gearing that increases the number of "ticks" per second and makes it look smooth, or does it look smooth? I've never seen a gen sea dweller. And lastly, when did they start using hi-beat movements in their watches?

I must be the stereo effect they go from looking at both of them simultaneously. It also looks like they're tried to remove the screw (the one with the pointer toward it) and they managed to strip it. As far as the movement is concerned, it appears to be similar to the one they did for the PO chrono, with tucked in sub-dials, except it has seconds running at 3 instead of 9. Take a look at the date window, it appears to suffer from that sunken feeling that most mods suffer from.

That really looks like the one, and the price is reasonable. The only problem is that I'm not sure there's a real one like it. Someone with more Rolex knowledge should chime in. Is this replica correct, or fantasy?

Here is one at Asian7750.com that has the Rolex engraving inside the rehaut ring. This is the Ceramic bezel version. The real one is also a ceramic bezel and white gold. Rolex Submariner Ceramic Bezel - Blue The one you were looking at has a very metallic, darker looking blue, which is common to the Two-Tone versions of the sub, but which I haven't seen on a Stainless steel version.

The 2846 is a 21,600bph if I'm not mistaken, are you saying that the Sea-Dweller is a slow beat watch?

I don't really know, I bought it from one of our members, not a dealer.

Let me start by saying that I know nearly nothing about vintage Rolex (if this can be labeled vintage), but I got this as part of a bundle of watches a few weeks back, and I think the watch is great. I would like to invite comments from those that are familiar with the watch, that could tell me what is out of place or simply wrong, and if any of those wrongs can or should be fixed. A few notes: The flash washed out the real color of the hands and the hour dots, the fourth image which I took without a flash is closer to the real color, the markers are pale yellow, while the hands have more of a tan color to them. Oh, and sorry about the Breitling background, that's all I could find at the moment. While I didn't test the watch under pressure, I did submerge the case (without the movement) in a glass of water for about an hour and there were no signs of internal leakage. Also, does that thing in circled in red look like a "working" He valve? The watch has what appears to be an Asian copy of a ETA 2836-2 which works great, but I also have another 2836-2 movement (shown in the last pic), that I'm thinking about dropping in there. What do you think? Thanks for the input.

Back to the drawing board....er, Photoshop/Illustrator. Looks great though.

It needs a steady HAND, not balls...

This is good...I just got this reply from the seller: Dear dudemeister123, so sorry mate my daughter uploaded the wrong photo,thats why i just uploaded the wright ones and the watch is the third photo so please discard the first photo as i could not delete. Regards, - thatsminesweet What a bunch of BS...

So I left an message to the seller asking him which one of the pictures is the one of the real watch, the first or the third, because the first sure looks like one the ultra cheap faux chronos. Have a look at it, it actually shows a weekly calendar on the 9 O'clock dial, 31 day monthly on the 3 o'clock and a 24 hour at 6. The 3rd picture shows a normal looking Daytona, but I'm sure it's a fake, considering the first pic is. I wonder if he even had the watch on hand (real or fake). He probably lifted a bunch of pictures from the web, and is trying for a total scam (shipping insurance probably) That's just about as blatant as they come. This guy needs to go DOWN!

I'll never be able to look at aother pumpkin in the same way again :shock:

Here is my pumpkin patch

Well, since it's Halloween weekend, it has to be my "pumpkin" PO Chrono.

Because that's usually the going price for a low cost watch with an automatic movement but non-working, "faux", chronos. Take a look at the watches that have a real working automatic chronograph (with a A7750 movement), and then look st the fine details. You'll realize why there's such a price difference, and you'll also know which one you should buy.