Dudemeister

Must be "loose a screw" week!! I too lost a screw from my Cartier Pasha yesterday. The large screw that holds the end link pivot pin to the watch head is now gone. I know I lost it at work, but I can't find it anywhere. So I'll take this opportunity to ask if anyone has one. I already posted a request for the pin and also a bracelet elsewhere, but this is a good place too.

Here are a few random thoughts: 1. Since the watch will be used in space, readability is paramount, and so is visibility. What ever layout you decide on, must be clear, easy to take in at a glance, and bright. With that in mind, the more indeces you have the more thought and time it requires for the brain to absorb, so I would say simple is better. 2. For visibility, I would choose tritium instead of traditional lume as it does not require charging. Remember you might not have enough light to charge the watch. You could also opt for the entire dial to be coated with luminous material, and the markers, indeces and everything else would be black. 3. Why are seconds so important? I would think that, unless I'm timing something (like my oxygen supply, or time remaining on the ships self destruct), hours are the most important thing. If you need to time something you should consider a chronograph, Daytona maybe? 4. Of all the dial designs, I think #4 is the closest, but with ta twist. You need a "0" or "12" reference, but instead of the large triangle, lume the Rolex coronet instead. Let it serve as the "0" index.

I think that if you're going to do a watch that's to be worn in space, it should be a 24 hour dial, not 12, as there is no day and night there. Technically, depending on what planet you might be, the 24 hour concept is out too.

Here is the one I've been wearing for about a month now.

Here is what you can do. Take readings of your watch periodically (say every 4-6 hours), and see if it is regularly fast or slow. By this I mean does is always gain or loose the same amount of time in a given period of time? Some people refer to this as "isochronism". If it does, (The loss or gain is constant), then your watch is probably pretty close to the correct beat. This is a good thing, because it means you can adjust the watch yourself (if you're careful). On the other hand, if the loss/gain is all over the place, then you'll probably never get it right, so you'll have to have it regulated by a watchsmith. If you are lucky and the beat is right, you can try to adjust it following this link. It's a simple adjustment, and although your movement is probably different than the one in the link, the balance regulator, or spring levers will look and function the same regardless. Given the gross amount of deviation you currently have you should adjust the lever by a fair amount (by that I mean about 3-4 degrees or .5mm), then set the watch to the correct time and check it a few hours later. Rinse, lather, repeat... As you get closer to the correct adjustment the amount of adjustment should get a lot smaller. As you get down to adjusting it within 5-10 seconds per day, the movement on the lever should be extremely small. Put it this way, if you can see it move with the naked eye, you probably moved it too much, do the adjustments under 5x magnification. I've adjusted a few watches that now run very close to

I think the 13" MacBook Pro will give her many years of enjoyment. As Andreww mentioned, you should pick up alarge monitor for her as well. A 24" full HD (1080p), can be hd fairly cheap, about $250, and an external 500GB portable drive like the Seagate FreeAgent Go is about $85. When you get the mouse and keyboard, do get the Apple wired full size keyboard, it's much better suited for productivity than the compact wireless. The new wireless mouse is OK. I hope she enjoys it.

Ebel 1911 Discovery panada dial. Sweet creamy goodness. Not too flashy, elegant, simply irresistible !

That watch has a standard A7750 setup, so the date wheel is NOT sunken due to any kind of mods. I have one and it look great !!

They may call it "Legally binding", but the reality is that any buyer or seller can simply back out of an auction and all that's going to happen is they going to get a negative point against them. If you get three in a year, then they can suspend the account, but that's about as harsh as it gets. There's no lawyers calling or police beating down your door, so if the seller chooses to back out of the sale, I'm afraid they can do it without much fanfare. What wil happen is that they (the seller) will contact eBay asking to cancel the transaction, then eBay will contact you to check if you agree, if you don't agree, and you can't work something out with the seller, they'll get about 4 weeks to ship the item, if they choose to not sell you the item, they will get a strike against them, that's it. I suggest you might want to try working something with them, if you really want the watches, but ultimately, you could simply bow out gracefully. I know this because it has happened to me on both sides of the fence (as a buyer and a seller) over the last few years on eBay, so that's my 2 pennies on the subject.

Aplle also has many good deals on their factory refurbished Macs. I have previously purchased refurbed macs, and other than the generic brown box they come in, there's no difference between a new one and that other than the price. You can check their deals here: Apple Refurb Store You might also want to consider (depending on the price) an older model (like the ones they were selling ealrier this years with a Core 2 Duo instead of the i5/i7. While those processors are great, the "relative" performance improvement they offer over the Core 2 may not be worth the money. What I mean by relative is: If the i5 processor is, say, 25% faster, and what you need to do takes 1 hour on a Core 2, it might take 45 minutes on the i5. That's a big difference, but if the task at hand only takes 1-2 seconds, does that 25% improvement make enough difference to justify a few hundred dollars? I work with both photos and video, and I find that most tasks in Photoshop take less than 5-10 seconds, even on large RAW files. It's HD video that can use all the horse power you can give it. Editing video and especially encoding it can be very time consuming. Another CPU hog is 3D rendering, so Programs like Maya, Combustion, RenderMan and Lightwave can and will use anything you can give them. So if your daughter is planning on doing a lot video editing, Final Cut Pro, Premiere, etc., or any of the 3D rendering and animation, then the i5 is something you should seriously consider, but Photoshop is not as demanding and will work just fine on a Core 2 Duo machine. Anyway, take a look at Apple's store, and remember, that things like memory and hard drives can be upgraded after the fact for a lot less than what Apple charges. Good luck

I went for the HTC EVO 4G instead.

When I was looking to replace my black dial with a white one, I found out there are at least 2 sizes, 31mm and 30.4mm. I'm not exactly sure what a Swiss Fish is, but mine is an Asian one (without AR, and with a stamped "B" instead of etched in the bezel). That one takes a 30.4mm dial. Here is what it looks like. Take a look at the lower lip, where the dial meets the ring. The dial itself is 31mm, but the ring is 30.4mm

I don't know, I did it once on a Comex SeaDweller bracelet, and it came out really good, but the case, is something else altogether, I don't trust myself. On the other hand, I though only the Serie Speciale were brushed/satin finish, the regular Navis were not. If this is the case, my does not look like a Serie Speciale (other than the back), so can I get away with it the way it is?

I have an old version rep with a 21K A7750. Even though the back is from a Serie Speciale, the dial doesn't have the words wrapped around the sub-dial. The date font is wrong, but that could be easily fixed, at least it's not sunken. Best of all the slide rule lines up nearly perfect. Note: Although the ticks don't appear to line up on he left side, they actually do, it's some kind of optical illusion due to the camera angle.

Scroll down the page and look at this model: MT-DG3836-4D Movement Diameter: 26.00 mm. Thickness: 6.22 mm. Function: hour, minute, sweep; with 3 eyes, date at 4.5, month at 3, 24hr at 6, and day at 9. Looks like it has the exact functions you need. The only concern would be the spacing, but I think it should fit.

Take a look at Ofrei. They have many movements that have such functions: Otto Frei Chinese movements Not knowing what exactly was configuration your Bentley had, I can't tell you which one to use, but here are a fewe examples: DG3806EB-3D Ligne size: 11.5 (26.00 x 5.87 mm). Thickness: 5.87 mm. Function: big minute, (date at 3, 4.5, 6); 3 eyes (hour at 12, small second at 6, 24 hour & moon at 9). (the moon is simply a 24 hour counter) MT-DG3806PB Ligne size: 11.5 (26.00 x 5.87 mm). Thickness: 5.87 mm. Function: hour, minute; (date at 3, 4, 4.5, 6); 2 eyes (small second at 6, 24 hour & moon at 9). Hand sizes 1.00/1.50/.16x2 MT-HZ2393 Ligne size: 12.5 (28.00 x 6.45 mm). Thickness: 6.45 mm. Function: hour, minute, sweep; date at 3, 3 eyes (day at 3, month at 4.5, 24 hour at 6). Hand sizes .90/1.50/.25 There are many others, just take a look at all the configurations. Good luck

The particular myth this excerpt was lifted from, had to do with the claim/myth that you should only use the chrono on a fully wound A7750 movement, or the friction generated by the movement of the newly engaged gears would have a slowing down affect. In reality you can run the chrono continuously, until the watch stops without noticing any difference in the performance/accuracy or the reserve power. The statement above is correct, assuming a properly working movement. I understand, and agree with your statement that a dirty, over or under oiled watch has much more friction than a working one, but usually, if it's dirty, it's dirty all over, not only the couple of gears that engage during the active chrono (center seconds and tilting pinion) Never-the-less, a watch that gains a minute for every five it runs, then looses a minute for every five the chrono is on, has problems that go well beyond simple friction and lubrication, hence my advice to not waste anymore time and get it replaced.

Dealer, jay at Silix, says that that can hasppen when a watch is new and sometimes it settles itself with the time I hate to say this but that's really nonsense. A watch with a problem like yours will never "settle". What Jay might be talking about happens on watches that have been over oiled, and/or are dirty. If they sit in one place for along time, the oil forms tiny little pools, which increase the friction. Also, if the movement is dirty, the impurities mix in with the oils, which contributes to the movement getting "gummed up". In this case, the moment won't even start, or starts and stops all the time. In either case, this is NOT a good thing. Don't waste any more time, and have them replace your watch. As for tutorials on the A7750, there are many here, just do a search in the Knowledge Base section. The Zigmeister, By-Tor, Francisco, they've all done fantastic tear downs and tutorials with pictures. You can also got to the original manufacturer's site for a great interactive dis-assembly tutorial ETA 7750 . Good luck, and don't let this one bad experience deter you from collecting chrono watches.

That's not exactly correct. There is a A7750 Myths page somewhere that deals with the do and don'ts as well as with the myths about the A7750. Runnin the Chrono on teh A7750 should NOT affect it's time keeping accuracy, certainly not to the point of being able to tell the difference, much less to the point of loosing 2 minutes for every 5 minutes it runs (1 min.fast/chrono off, 1 min.slow chrono on). Given the HUGE discrepancy you're seeing in the first place (the watch is off by over 20%), I would say that there is somehting really wrong with it, and yes, you should be able to get some kind of action from the dealer you bought it from. None of us here would accept a watch that is this badly adjusted (or not adjusted). I found the A7750 myths file, and below is an excerpt desribing what happens when you start the chrono: Only two things happen when you start a 7750 chrono 1. The tilting pinion (which is running ALL the time) tilts over and engages into the center chrono seconds gear. The center seconds chrono gear has slight friction, in fact it

I just read your story, so a BIG congratulations and a heartfelt God Bless to you and your (now larger) family !!

That's just too funny...

Tony is one of the few dealers that you almost never see negative feedback about. I've bought on at least 3 occasions from him, the the price were good, shipping was fast, and the watch was great.

I got mine from Tony at Asian7750. He has some of the best quality watches at the best price. I'd give him a try. Here are a couple of links for the one you were looking for (close in dials). I've had mine for about a year now an I had no problems at all. Black version Orange Version He also has them with leather bands or rubber straps, but it's always a good idea to buy the watch with the bracelet, and buy the strap of choice as an add-on. He charges about $40 for the additional straps. Good luck

I really like the Abyss Yellow version. And the price should also be reasonable at $2000-2400. A year or two down the line we should be able to pick up a used one for $1500-1700, maybe less. But then again, a good quality rep below $200 woul dbe even better.

Dallas Braden of the Oakland Athletics pitched a perfect game against the Tampa Bay 'Rays, winning 4:0. This is only the 19th perfect game in MLB history, and the first by an Oakland pitcher since Catfish Hunter pitched the last one exactly 42years and 1 day ago (5/8/68). GO A's !!!