Dudemeister

Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious

A couple that come to mind, and I actually freeze-framed it to catch it, was Nathan Fillion on Castle wearing a Tag Grand Carrera, and his costar Stana Katic is wearing a Speedmaster Chrono. The problem is that a closeup in one of the later episodes, shows it to be A FAKE. Another one I noticed is Bruno Tonioli on Dancing with the Stars, he's sporting a Panerai. Can't tell which, but you can tell what it is.

I for one am a big fan of chronographs, so I do have a few watches with the A7750, but I also have a few watches with non-chrono movements, including ETA 28xx and the so called 21J's. I found that most A7750's are good enough and reliable enough as long as they are the non modified ones, (i.e. stock with running seconds @ 9). Some modes are more reliable than others, and there are many articles here, including many tear downs by The Zigmeister and others that explain the issues. The A7750 is harder to adjust than the simpler ETA or 21J, so for me, most of the A7750 that needed adjustment are usually within 15-20 seconds off, and I find it nearly impossible to get them any closer. On the other hand I've got some cheap DG2813's I adjusted to within2-3 seconds per day. So it really comes down to what type of watch you like. If you like chronos, don't fear the 7750, embrace it. And if you get a watch like the Tag Aquaracer which uses the 7750 in it's native configuration, you should be OK. As mentioned before, servicing is an important part of keeping these watches going, the chronos more so than the simpler ones, but (unlike some folks here), I don't think it's necessary to service it immediately after you get it unless it got to you with problems. With any luck the watch should be good for at least 2-3 years maybe more before needing any kind of work. My $0.02 on the subject. P.S. I forgot, one of the advantages of a cheap 21J movement, is that when if finally gives up the ghost, it only costs $15 to buy a new one. So if you are handy enough with small tools you can replace it in a hour or so.

Any Classic Rock, but If I had to pick... I can't just pick one, but I'll do 3: Zep, Floyd and Tull. I just depends on the mood I'm in.

I previously posted a couple of gun and watch combo pix, so today I present to you my latest toy. No, not the SOSF, the SAA (Single Action Army) revolver. I wish I had a cool pocket watch to display along the Peacemaker, but in since I had the SOSF out of the box, I figured it would look good next to the .45. For those interested, the gun is an Uberti Cattleman in .45LC caliber and 4.75" barrel.

I guess it was inevitable that the crown tube threads would eventually strip on my SMP Chrono. About a year ago I bought one of the newer models from one our member, and while the watch itself was in great condition, the inner threads of the crown tube were weak to start with, and today they finally gave out. I know I can do the job myself, but I need a bit of guidance from those that have already done this. The watch is the newer version with red Seamaster lettering, if that makes any difference. So here are a few things I'd need pointers on: 1. Replacement part number(s) (I can order from Ofrei as they are just across the bay from me) 2. How is the tube removed (screwed in)? Does it require any special tools? 3. Do I need to replace the tube AND the crown? Which one gets stripped? Thanks in advance for all the help. P.S. if anyone has step by step photos or knows of an article like that, it would be of great help

It's indeed a sad state of affairs when these things can be sold as authentic and companies like eBay refuse to investigate and do something about it when the authenticity of the item in question is brought up to them. The problems is that most people, unlike those of us that have had some exposure, have never seen the inside of an Omega watch or whatever, and posting a picture of the movement, is not going to tell them anything, other than perhaps it appears as a real mechanical movement rather than quartz. I would even go so far as to give the seller the benefit of the doubt, and say that even he had no idea that he had a fake, mainly because any scammer out there, even the semi-dumb ones, would know not to post a picture of the inside if they knew it was fake. So once again it goes to show what a service a group like our can provide, and if this hobby would become more mainstream and "over-the-counter" so to speak, a lot less people would fall for this kind of bad deals.

I had the same problem, and found that if I slowly turn the crown counter clockwise while gently press the stem in, it eventually clicks in place.

Anaglyphic glasses are still the most common, especially for home use. Even in theaters they still use them. I saw Avatar twice, once in SoCal, and the theater was using anaglyphs, the other in San Francisco, and they were using polarized lenses. In both cases the experience was the same. From what I understand, true polarized solutions are not yet ready for home use, it has something to do with the improper "retinal" response when viewed on direct screens (LCD, plasma, etc). When viewed on a reflected image (i.e projection) it works fine, but on an LCD the angle of view is so limited that the difference between seeing 3D or one eye being darkened altogether is only a few inched side to side. Most 3D videos currently being offered use either the blue/red (actually Cyan/red to be exact), or red/green (it's really magenta/green). I'm also finding that different movie releases have somewhat different shades of red or Cyan (especially the cyan, which can be lighter or darker), which are tweaked for their movie, and don't work well with other movies. I have about a dozen pairs of these glasses, from the cheap paper ones, to more sophisticatred plastic ones and lip-ons, and they're different enough from one another.

Ever since I saw Avatar a few months ago, my interest in 3D has started to grow. After reading a few tutorials, I decided to try my hand at making a few 3D pics. So far I only have the pics below, and some pics of my Micro RC helicopters, but I thought it would be cool to post a few pics here. All you'll need a pair of anaglyphic (red/blue) 3D glasses. Click on the pics to get the bigger version. If anyone is interested , I'd be more than glad to explain the process.

I think the plastic movement holder should be the only key one would need....

Back in '83 Seiko released one of the first Quartz Chrono movements the 7A28. While the running seconds @ 6 and main seconds chrono hand were 1 tick/sec., the chrono dial @ 3, was ticking at a very speedy 1/20 sec ! The movement had 15 jewels and separate coils and motors for each function. It could also be regulated in increments of .26sec/day using a simple rotary switch. That was and still is one of the most sophisticated quartz movements made, and the RAF adapted these Seiko watches as their standard issue (with a few modifications). Here is mine. One of my first chronos, and still one of my favs.

I previously owned Japanese cars: 73 Datsun 240Z 82 Toyota Supra 85 Toyota Supra 89 Toyota Supra Turbo Now I drive: 94 Infiniti Q45a 00 Mercedes ML320 planning to buy this year: [*]05 Mercedes 350 SLK to replace Q45a I also owned other cars besides those in the last 35 years, Pontiac Station wagon, Merc Capri (3 of them), Volvo, Cressida, Rav 4. The most fun car I ever had was my 76 Mercury Capri. A 2.8l V6 beast with a Holley 4 barrel carb that could drop the rear end down and burn rubber on the freeway. Handling sucked but it could leave my 240Z in the dust. The second most fun car was my 89 Supra. The car had the whole rice-rocket package, full aero package, 300bhp chip, augumented Turbo (16psi), headers, pipes, etc. It could handle great and it was fast. But the targa top leaked like crazy, and I could no longer legally smog the car so I traded it for the Infiniti. Besides it was time I grew up. Commuting 80 miles daily in that, could get tiresome.

Congratulations to team Canada for their thrilling win and gold medal in hockey. That was a fantastic game. We'll meet again in 2014 in Sochi. And congrats on organizing a great Olympics.

I'm tempted..... but the wife... If I win, she'll take the money and spend it on herself, if I loose, I'll never hear the end of it. So it's a lose-lose situation for me.

Worst mistake I made was opening my first mechanical movement, and actually putting it back together as a working watch. Ever since I've had these delusions of graduer, thinking that somehow I'm qualified to work on watches. NOT !!

Dude, regardless of what the weather is like, I would NEVER trade SF Bay Area for SoCal. I go on trips all the time, but every time I come back home and either fly over or come across the Golden Gate or the Bay Bridge and see that San Francisco skyline, I KNOW WHY I PAY The exorbitant rent I pay to live here, and I'm still happy to do so. I don't think I'd want to live anywhere else. Sure I'd like to have a vacation home somewhere else (like Victoria, BC), but there's nothing like my home town.

I guess you must live in the "other part" of California. In the Bay Area it's raining, and it plans on doing so through Saturday. Welcome aboard.

Just finished putting it back together, so here it is. The only problem I currently have is the screws on top look a bit ragged.. Other than that I'm happy with it. BTW. The only complaint I had about this watch was the lack of lume on the dial, only the hands have lume. So I decided to apply some lume to the 12, 3, 6 and 9 markers on the rehaut ring. Here are a few pics of the final job.

!!!!!! I FOUND IT !!!!!! Holy crap, I can't believe my luck, I found the damn chrono hand. I feel so much better now, I think this calls for a big drink, a double shot of something... ... I think that since it's a black and white watch, I think I'll have a "White Russian" !

I don't kow if it was one of those slo-mo moments, but more like a "F*CK", follwed by total dejection, cause I knew it was gone. That happened around midnight last night, and then I spent the next 3 hours looking for it, to no avail. I know what you mean though about finding it later when I'm no longer looking for it. It's always like that isn't it? I was also looking at some of my other watches, and the running seconds @ 9 hand from the Tag Link Chrono would work just fine. It's the same length and nearly identical wedge shape. I just hope someone here has one for sale or trade.

I would imagine that epoxy would work really well, as it gives you some adjustment time, unlike CA glue for examle. However, what do you do when you need to take it off again? Is it pretty permanent, do risk pulling out or breaking the stem? On the same subject, disaster struck last night as I was working on my Ebel 1911 Discovery. I had just picked up the small chrono hand (Hour totalizer @ 6) with my tweezers, when it sprung out somehow. While I know it's somewhere in my room, I can't find it anywhere, and I spent easily 3 hours looking for it. Does anyone have one, it doesn't matter if it's white or black, or unpainted. I'm willing to pay for it, or trade for something. Please, please please......

I'm looking for some techniques on re-installing the hands back on the the chrono stems of an A7750. What the easiest way of doing this, yet the most reliable. I've done a few times before, but it's a major pain, and on occasion I screwed up too. One time I was installing the hand on the minute totalizer, and in an attempt to make sure the hand is well pressed in I pushed too hard and broke the stem. Luckily I had a spare parts movement that donated the entire minute wheel. Last time, I did not use as much pressure, but the minute hand started to loosen up on the stem during the chrono resets, and eventually came off. I don't have any special tools for placing the hands on the stem. I use a pair of tweezers with a bit of masking tape on the tip. I simply lift the hand with the tape, center it on the stem (the hard part), then press it down using a small teflon tube tip. The problem is I'm afraid to press down on it to lock it down. How do you guys do this and still make sure the hands don't come loose during actual use? DO you use any glue or Loctite? I did use a bit of locktite, but it didn't seem to make any difference. Thanks for the help

I just looked through my 08 catalog (Chronolog 08), and this is in there. It's an Emergency Mission. They refer to it as the "Civilian" version of Emrgency. Specs: Caliber: Breitling 73 MOvement: SuperQuartz Diameter: 45mm Thickness: 19.2mm Weight: 155.7 grams Lug width: 22/20mm Bracelets: Diver Pro, Leather or Professional Hope that helps

I'm no studio musician, but I've benn dabbling with variuos effects and stuff for the last 30 years. In principle I agree with red's statement that most digital multi-effects don't sound like the sum of their individual single effect counterparts. But there's something to be said about them too. Most of us can't afford to buy 20-30 stomp boxes and have them neatly attached to a footboard and wired, etc... Hell, the 9v batteries alone or all the mini power supplies would drive me crazy. A couple of simple well made multi-effect boxes might just do the work, especially if they're properly adjusted and you don't go everboard with the effects. One of the advantages of a multi effects box is that the cable induced noise is nonexistant. Also any post-processing noise and undesirable overdrive/feedback is either non-existand or controllable. I for one have a few gadgets I use a Zoom stomp pedal (don't remember the model), a rack mount Yamaha GEP-50 (one of the most "analog" sounding digital effects box), a Morley Fuzz-Wah, and a Roland GR-1 Guitar Synth. The Zoom box is a cheap useable box, a little noisy when adding too many effects together, but manageable. The Yamaha is just sweet sounding, if you can find one, get it. The GR-1, I haven't used it in 10 years. Then there's Guitar Rig and GearBox. I use primarily Guitar Rig on my Mac. I ditched the GR Controller pedal, and I'm using a M-Audio 410 FireWire interface and a Behringer FCB1010 midi controller, and lag is a thing of the past. I had other interface boxes like the FastTrack USB and the GuitarPort from Line6 and they all had some lag regardless of what I tried. The FireWire interface makes all the difference in the world, so you might want to try one of those if haven't already. Once lag is gone, the amp sims are pretty good. You can do things with them that you could never try in the real worls (or afford), How many people can afford to daisy chain 10-15 delay and splitter boxes, a few Digitech pedals and play them through multiple amps simultaneously ?? Many complain that the emulation doesn't sound exaclty like the real thing. I think that most of the time this is due to post amplification. It should be about as neutral as possible, as any sound coloration it adds, will end up changing the intended sound. In other words, let the sim do it's job, and don't add anything extra in post amplification, keep it flat. Anyway, that's my 2 bits ($0.25) on the subject.