txcollector

Lost my VIP and of course my inbox is beyond capacity so I can't PM you, admin.

no hint of that blue AR? which dealer?

AR seems a weaker than the V3.5

just a question: why go for the LWO283 + DD module without the OEM dial?

is the dial OEM?

I can't even PM you. My inbox is way beyond limit without the membership

Unfortunately you won't be able to remove the crystal without removing the movement from the case, so no, you can't do it from the front. Since it would seem you haven't opened a watch before I'd NOT recommend you follow this procedure because with a 7750 movement a lot of things can go wrong if you are not experienced. The sequence would be something like this: - you will need to remove the caseback - remove screws/tabs that hold the movement to the case - remove the stem - carefully take the movement/dial from the case - get a low strength glue like a Loctite Threadlocker 222 to glue the numeral back into the dial - Let it dry under a dust cover making sure dust doesn't get into the case either. - Reverse the process The glue alone will cost you (let alone the other tools, gloves, etc.). I'd suggest you find someone that can do it for you.

I love mine but that blue AR bugs me a lot. I'm considering having the AR redone if I get a good supplier with colorless coating.

the new Nautilus on bracelet are more accurate than the AP RO. Both of course fail on the movement with open caseback but who looks at those anyway. The crystal on the Nautilus seems to be a little more clear than the RO. I'm thinking about single AR for mine.

thanks for the link. Interesting tourbillon design

the watch is not full Ti. The mid case is SS so the thing is heavy as hell. I wish they made a full Ti version.

I bet it's a sales person at Tourneau

I can't find it but it's a very involved process. You have to disassemble the clasp being careful on how you pull it out. There are two small springs under the clasp fine adjustment bar that have to be replaced so the hold is stronger. I used the spring inside the mini Bic lighters (the mini, the regular one is too thick).

The three main issues with the V2 are: The bezel lume which is applied to the bezel metal instead of the sapphire like the gen (it given a sunken look to the lume) The extreme blue AR (I've removed the outer AR and it looks at lot better) The weak springs on the clasp (the reason why it slips). There are mods that can be easily done to fix it (basically replacing the springs).

the crown position is an easy tell if you are looking at pictures but in real life the depth of the date wheel (impressive how it's not too obvious in pictures) and the case thickness are much bigger ones. Anything that would add thickness to the watch is a bad idea.

You could pull off with a light gray suit and light tan shoes. I have a pair of tan dress shoes I wear with a tan/orange belt and it works, at least for me. My Hugo Boss personal shopper agreed with it.

perfect

Do you really need to ask? zero feedback, two different watches in the pictures (chrono and non chrono), spelling mistakes on the title, no papers or proof of authenticity,

the one I have been using is http://1-pc8838.com/index.php but you are correct. He lists that one on his sig. Now I'm confused

that's not Josh's site, I believe.

I'd like to have it as a backup. I mainly use the computer but electronics fail. I carry a regular depth gauge but if I can get rid of an extra hose it would nice.

from what I've heard the vintage models were not very reliable and the Favre-Leuba Bathy V2 runs in the > $10K range like the JLC. The Oris seems very nice with a reasonable price. I can't wait for it to be released.

do you have any examples? I have been looking for a good one.