jmb

Looks good! I finished my Space Dweller a couple months back but still haven't got a good tint match on the hands. Out of curiosity how much "stem bind" do you have? The cases I use to make these from are for a 2824 movement...

I'm waiting for PP to suspend my account as I have never provided them with my SSN. They harassed me about it for a couple of years and apparently gave up!

I have used lacquer thinner. Seems to dry fast with no residue I can see but keep it away from the pallet forks as I have had it dissolve the glue that the stones are attached with!

Yeah, been a while. Been concentrating on other hobbies (ham radio mostly) which have been neglected over the years and spend the summers at our off-grid cabin in Oklahoma. I'm still turning out a few 1016 case sets from time-to-time but mostly just taking it easy!

Don't you wish you would have bought a box of em?😆 Heh, just noticed I have been promoted to "Rookie" after all these years!

I suspect this might be some sort of "fantasy" refinished dial that might have started life as an Oyster Perpetual Date.

Gnarly!

PM me.

This made me think about when I joined and realized it was over 10 years ago! Still kicking but trying to wind down and I've been hiding out in the SE Oklahoma mountains waging war on the 'coons and armadillos since the virus snuck in...

Thanks, M. I've got plenty of "stick" hands but wonder what a set of Ranger hands would look like on it?

I just discovered I have one Tudor Prince Date case left so I am being greatly tempted! Do you have a link to the Yuki dial?

Looks bitchin' 'goat!

OK, but still not a low beat. Have fun with the build. Won't be checking in much because right now I'm off-grid up in the mountains hiding from COVID-19. Not sure when I will be back.

You will need to use a 2824 in my case. Stem position on a 2846 is wrong. Automatico made a low-beat 2824, I think, by swapping in a couple of 2846 parts into the 2824...

The Sherline is really nice for small precise work. I have a Harbor Freight 7x10 that I converted to CNC which is what I make bezels on and re-shape the DJ cases into 1016 cases. For manual work I have an old 50s South Bend "Light 10."

Yeah, that's what I'm talkin' about! With him along I doubt you gotta worry about anybody clamming up!

You shoulda took your buddy, Yogi, with you... 😜

Just to spread around the praise it was LHOOQ that provided good verifiable data/dimensions and hi-res photo from a gen bezel which I used to pull into a CAD program and develop the CNC program. I then tweaked it with his input until he was satisfied it was correct. And, as they say, the rest is history!

Tell me about it! Taking about .007" per pass gets pretty long and old real quick!

To try and clear things up about bezels. I do not routinely sell separate bezels anymore unless somebody asks for one and I have an extra available. I make them in batches, usually just to supply as part of a case set, and will usually make one or two extra. It used to be a lot easier to make when I could get thick-wall stainless steel pipe. I have not been able to find any sched 160 pipe in the size I need for a couple of years so I have to start with solid stainless steel round stock and bore it to size which is very time consuming on the small machines that I have.

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I suppose that makes sense...

I have always wanted to understand why people obsess over the weight. I like a lighter watch and have debated with myself whether it would be worth my time to build an aluminum case. If somebody could enlighten me I would appreciate it!

The main issue you are going to run into is the stem position is different between the two movements.

Thanks for everybody's conjecture guess educated hypothesis, I don't feel so bad now! I'll go with "service" dial that way it could conceivably be in anything.