jmb

I suppose a service replacement case would be a possibility, hadn't considered that.

From the research I've done trying to get my S/N engraving as close as I can that serial is from 1975 and the case should be marked "REGISTERED DESIGN." Cases marked with "ORIG ROLEX DESIGN" started around 1982 unless my research is totally wrong...

PM me...

Can't say for sure. Once getting it running I needed to regulate it, and it's still running a few seconds/day slow but overall ir works fine. I have another that needs it's equiv. of a balance wheel and will run until it gets to the same spot on the wheel, thump it and it will restart. Lather, rinse, repeat... If I find that part I'll have another.

I've engraved a few new TC cases lately but don't know exactly when they were purchased.

I have this one running fine off one of the substitute batteries so no problem there. This also has the stem at 4 but with a no-date dial I figger it won't matter...

I snagged a Bulova Accutron movement and cleaned it up and got it running. Talk about a smooth sweep hand! Plus, if you stick it up to your ear it hums too you! I'm going to see if I can mate it up to a dial and stick it in a Rollie case...

RLS text not "centered"? Starts at 37 minutes and ends at 19, pic of GEN attached as example. Seems this has been an isue with a lot of these over the years. I checked pics from my long departed Eurotimez V5 and it's off as well.

If you broke off a carbide bit they are extremely brittle and you should be able to hit the inside with a center punch. Since you have royally buggered up that particular hole you could go ahead and drill all of them bigger, install solid lug bars, and make a MILSUB... I would say to soak the lug tip in a strong citric acid solution but I don't know if that will eat tungsten/carbide... When drilling into existing "divots" you need to drill at the highest speed your equipment can provide or you will likely snap a bit when it breaks through into that "divot."

No problem with direction but most recommend not setting date between 22:00 and 02:00 as possible damage to the date mechanism might result.

It simply boggles my mind when I see prices like this on ANYTHING that you can't fly or live in... Item 152045932441 on fleabay...

His definition of "very good" is a bit different than mine...

Makes me glad I haven't the money to worry about it!

I had to put tinfoil over the inside of the bedroom windows... And, in the wintertime if I didn't go somewhere for lunch I never saw daylight...

Alum is good if the bit is broken off in Aluminum but can attack (so I've read) some stainless alloys...

When I lived in Fairbanks there was a "Midnight Sun Softball League" in town.

If the picture you posted is the crown's current state then there is nothing sticking out to grab and unscrew. Is this the case? If so you can mix up a citric acid solution and let it sit in it for a couple of weeks and it should dissolve the carbon steel of the stem without harming the stainless. This is how I remove broken drill bits in case lugs...

You've far surpassed what I was able to accomplish with decals! I bow before thee...

If the Sub you are getting has a 2824, or something else with the same stem height, it should work...

I wore an Explorer every day you were on the Everest thing.

Rob outdid himself with the pulled pork this year and we had a blast (literally) killing floating jugs with a plethora of firearms. I will be there next year and hopefully will get a chance to put some faces to names!

No case mods but the hands are different.

The cases I used to get, up until about a year or so ago had a smaller dial "seat" than the later ones. That was preferable when dealing with a gen-spec dial but a lot of rep dials push 29mm so I guess the case-makers didn't see the need for two cases.

Remove the date guts and attach the dial to the top of the movement without dial spacer and see if that gets it close enough... That's how I do the Felsa movements and the stem winds up just about perfect.

I never thought about gluing a dial to a dial but the way I do it is to set the ETA dial spacer on the movement, put a thin bead of JB-Weld around the top of the spacer, and set the dial (sans feet so I guess you could call it a paraplegic dial?) on top, centering it on the hour wheel, and setting a case-back die on it as a weight. This makes sure the dial is always perfectly centered on the movement and when I have it lined up perfectly with the stem a little dab of epoxy can be applied to make sure it stays "clocked" if you are so inclined. Dial-dots are just too "squishy" and let stuff shift around over time so I rarely use them anymore. I have tried the Bergeon glue-on dial feet but have not had very good success getting them to stay glued. Ofter just the slight force applied to the foot when closing the little clamp thingie on the movement is enough to break the epoxy loose.