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justbrowsing, you can also get generic crystals from ofrei in various thicknesses and diameters

Dang, you've been a "busy beaver"! Good job, Bro!

Hmmm, Red Sub with bloodshot eyeball pearl - I like it!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, but freezing the seconds hand on the a21j, and having the seconds at 6 still running, would look more "correct".

I have had the same thoughts as I have one with your scenario 3 movement. So far I have not had the time...

Heh, yeah, a lot of the aspects of this biz seem to be oxymorons and circular logic!

The detail in the corrected drawing shows the bevel I measured. I've sent some to a respected source to see if what I have done so far will work with the bezel as I don't have one to try them with...

Corrected drawing to reflect "bevel" and added bevel detail.

Fascinating, it's even Y2K compliant!!!

Looks very promising. I don't know why these factories can't get something right like a simple crown!

I think it's a pretty good idea for an O-ring to be here.

Slick! You've outdone yourself, Hike!!!

overall height is the same on this but looks thicker, probably 'cause no bevel. This one goes to the scrap bin and I start over!

Hike, the majority of the kudos go to Ubi and Lani for dipping into their respective stashes for the majority of the goodies. All I had to do was come up with hands and a band!

Lani, I'm glad to see you are helping to keep T off the streets. It's much better hiding at home assembling semi-legal goodies than out pub crawling! Pan, I agree about the date function and that's one of the things that initially drew me to the Tudor. I then started diggin' the subdial layout, and I was afterwards stricken with lust! TeeJay, all of the numbers look to be filled but these shots were taken last night with flash out in the shop.

I like the "over-easy" pearl. I think a bloodshot eyeball would look pretty trick as well!

highoe, shave the CGs, put in fat fixed bars (to cover up hole boo-boos) and make something really retro...

About the only thing I really, really don't like about it is the insert and pearl but you noticed that yourself. Very nice looking Sub overall...

For that price range you'll probably be looking at an a21j version with non-working chrono. But, since you have a preference for a date then the a21j versions from watcheden.com or idolreplicas.com use the 3:00 subdial to point to the date (well, up to 30 anyway). Although the subdials have date functions on these versions the subdials are labeled as per gen. I'm sure the other dealers have them as well but I used these two sites as an example as I've bought one from them (both ran by same person) before.

Hmmm...

Crap! You will need a set of "maxi" hands for whatever your movement is. Check with your dealer to see if they might get you a set. I got the hands for my Tudor chrono project from Eurotimez so they might be able to help as well. Good luck!

It's a cheapie Chinese 9x20. This one is a Harbor Freight branded one but you can get the same one branded as Grizzly, Enco, Jet, etc. The stock compound clamp needs to be replaced with a beefier one (homebrew) and I then installed a quick-change toolpost and a 1.5 HP variable speed DC drive motor. I got it on sale several years back and I think with all the mods still have under $1k invested in it,

No prob, R, I've had plenty-o-stuff to keep me busy!!

Now that Lani came through with a loaner MBW 5513 retention ring I can make a couple to replace those of Kurt's that the postal service swallowed! I priced some 316L and decided that there was absolutely nothing wrong with 303 in this case since nobody will see it. I first measured the loaner ring and made a working drawing (attached in PDF format). I then chucked up a scrap of 1 7/16" round 303 in the lathe and turned about 1/4 inch to proper OD: Then drilled a hole that a small boring bar would fit through: After the hole was drilled through it was time to bore the ID to size. This needs to be held pretty close tolerance as this dimension determines how much squeeze is gonna get put on the crystal to case junction: I chose to machine this .001" undersize as I have noticed varying diameters in aftermarket crystals. If too tight then the ID can be sanded a bit until you have a perfect fit: I then mounted the cutoff tool and machined in the "step" and parted off the ring: Here is the finished product. Original ring on the right: I probably won't machine the rest of them until I finish the toolholder for my carbide cutoff blade as it will leave a better surface than the "flexy" cobalt steel blade and be easier to control precisely. I feel that I just got lucky on this one with the cobalt blade! Well, that's all there is to it. Small Chinese lathes are not all that expensive and with a couple mods and upgrades can hold pretty fair tolerance so go get one and have fun!! MBW 5513 Retention Ring.pdf

Let me start this by saying this project would never have gotten off the ground, let alone completed, without the selfless donations from our good brothers Lani and Ubi - Thanks R and R!! Everybody always talks about their "grail watch", and I suppose this was mine as I fell in love the first time I saw one and bemoaned the fact that one was not repped and likely never would be. But, Lani and Ubi to the rescue!!! Lani sent me a spare dial from his Tudor project and Ubi chipped in with an A7750 movement of the proper layout and a Daytona case. Ubi passed along the movement (he said was inop) to use in mocking up the watch, checking fits, etc. I decided it was time to jump in with both feet and partially disassembled it and fixed the keyless works and it ran like a champ! I put new rubber on the pushers (itty-bitty O-ring kit from watchbitz) and installed the missing pusher C-clips (clip assortment from cousins.com). This evening I worked up the nerve to assemble the watch and I can truly say I'm in love!!! After assembling the "head" I then fitted a non-SEL vintage style Oyster bracelet. I still need to either relocate the cyclops or install a crystal with the cyclops in the right spot (this has a killer mag and is about in the right spot for a Sub), and maybe find a Tudor clasp, but this is close to perfect for me the way it sits! The only thing left that I must do is figure out how to secure the movement into the case - I can probably take the back off my Seconds at 9 Daytona to see how that is done. Here's some pics: