jmb

T, on the DSSD reps (on he V5 anyway) it can be depressed from the outside, this one opens when pushed from the inside. The rep DSSD valve operation seems totally wrong to me unless it's supposed to be a manually operated release valve, which I doubt...

The ceramic bezel on this (and any) watch makes it look so crisp! I have a Pepsi GMT II but I may have to break down and get one of these...

Thanks! It's amazing how such a little thing can make such a difference. Before I started "hanging out" in joints like this I would have never known the difference - maybe ignorance IS bliss!

I finally had a little spare time so I decided it was time to install some proper spring bars, from ofrei.com, into my trevorwatch budget DRSD. The biggest problem with this seemingly simple "upgrade" was that the existing lug holes were too small, as it appears they always are. No problem, I had a fresh set of drill bits so it should be a piece of cake. I mounted my drilling fixture into my mill and opened up the lug holes to the proper size, drilled through the band and end-links so the new spring bars would fit through, re-assemble, and tweak the end-links. It seems like all reps come with these itty-bitty (actually .040" diameter) external lug holes instead of the proper size hole all the way through. I suppose it's so they can give the appearance of having thru lug holes while still utilizing the cheap skinnier spring bars. I suppose this looks better than no hole at all... When ripping this beastie apart I felt that trevor had been truthful when he said the a21j version of this watch was the same casework as the ETA version. I was skeptical (even though it felt like quality on the outside) but as soon as the cover was off I noticed a couple things not normally seen on a "bargain-basement" rep. These were a brass movement spacer/retaining ring and screws to secure the movement! The usual budget jobs I have disemboweled had plastic spacer/retainer rings so this was a definite step up. I stuck a .040" drill through the lug holes and found they were not really straight. This didn't really surprise me and each hole was crooked in a different way! Drilling these on the mill (a drill press would have probably worked just as good) seemed to true the holes up pretty good: After deburring the new holes I installed (after drilling them out) the band and end-links - which I would "tweak" later: While I was inside I investigated the He valve and determined it opened in the proper direction. I had planned on epoxying the valve but finding it operated in the correct direction, and the valve "plunger" had an O-ring, I decided to just grease it and reassemble. I also bent the retainer just a bit (to give a bit more spring pressure) before reinstalling it to the valve plunger. When reassembling the watch I found that it looked (and felt) like the brass spacer ring was actually contacting the end of the valve plunger which, in my opinion, would be slightly opening the valve - I'm glad I never wore this thing into the shower! The ring had a "flat" filed into it at the He valve location but it was not enough. I used a round file to put a "notch" into the ring so it would no longer contact the valve plunger. All should be water-tight now. The bezel had never turned as smoothly as I'd like and the insert did not look to be seated evenly so I decided there was no better time to remove it than the present. After removing the bezel I found some little "glue-balls" under it. After removing them it rotated very smoothly. I think the glue was from the bezel insert which had a "copious" amount of a glue that resembled weatherstrip adhesive securing it. The uneven glue "layer" was also the cause of the insert looking higher in some spots. Now that there is only a very thin even layer of glue between bezel and insert the insert is even and properly "recessed". After a good rinse and blow-dry it was just a matter of reassembling. I don't think it turned out too bad and when you add the $4 price of the proper spring bars to the cost of the watch I am still well under $100!

Looks good! Since the insert fell out this would be the perfect time to make sure it's recessed properly before gluing it back down.

I concur...

By-Tor, I think the case was similar to these quartz pics but it didn't say quartz on it anywhere and the minute markings were on a bezel insert or rehaut...

gio, it had pix originally and now they're all gone! I have decided I will build one of these, or as close to it as I can...

I think you have finally achieved what most have said was not possible! I love it...

What happened to the pix?

Very classy looking, I wish more Tudor stuff was repped...

Oh, well, that explains everything!

goat, I kinda agree with you, this just doesn't look right to me for some reason. The shaved CGs give it a very retro look but to me it looks more like a rep somebody used to experiment with techniques...

Well, it sold for $6700!!! I'm speechless...

It looks nice but maxi-dial, no CG, etc.? It looks more like a fantasy rep now... What did it start out as? I do kinda like the black pearl, though!

Lani, no worry, from this hectic period of time you alluded to I figgered you had "bigger fish to fry" and would get 'round to it eventually!

Very elegant looking, I like the dial and particularly like the "groovy" date disc! Now, if it had crown guards...

I finally broke down and ordered a "REAL" crown "Tube Remover Tool" so no more need to use the reamer to get 'em out - Of course the reamer will still come in handy on a cheapo rep tube that's not splined on the inside.... It has several different size bits and at $15 seems like an exceptional buy to a tool junkie like me! ;-)

Have been wearing this one for the past couple of days now that I have a more correct crystal in it...

JoJO, could you pop up some details of the lugs (front/back/side), lug holes, back, etc.? I feel a hair-brained scheme coming on...

I usually don't like "CG-less" watches but the dial on this one makes me not even notice the lack of! It looks great! I "see" a milling project in the future! ;-)

Hmmm, seems a bit beat-up for four grand! All I need is a dimensioned drawing, SOMEBODY!!!

idolreplicas has one for $108/shipped. If you do a search I did a mini-review a little while back and someone else also did a review of a different one...

I haven't taken a Noob crystal out but on the other lower-end reps I've messed with it will just pop out with thumb pressure from the inside!

Does anybody have a drawing or sketch with the "important" dimensions, etc., of a gen (or gen copy) Submariner case? I have some 303 stainless laying around and when my rotary table gets here I think I'm going to attempt to mill out a case. I have dies for threading a crown tube and I think all of the tooling I need to mill out the case. The only part that might be problematic is the case back as I don't think my lathe can cut threads that fine but I'll cross that bridge when I get there...