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But those Road Runners were fast for their day... I know what you mean about the red dials. Most of the "rare Coca Cola commemoratives" I've seen had the red dials and they didn't do much for me. I saw this dial and something just made me get it - and, I don't even drink Coke! The 1/4 Century Club model looks pretty classy, to classy for me. Yeah! I'm gonna start calling TeeJay Dr. Frankenstein! But, I feel I have a kindred spirit on the board so I don't feel as lonesome as I once did...

Nice looking watch! I thought about welding in the He valve, grinding, and polishing so it would look like just a Sub case on steroids but TeeJay talked me into leaving the valve in place. I'm glad he did as I'm basically a lazy ba$tard (besides being a cheap ba$tard) and that would have been a lot of work! Plus, it's kinda growing on me... Oh, been married for 33 years so I gave up "girls" a long time ago!! Oh, Demsey, here's the Super ColaMariner:

OK, it didn't seem people were overwhelmed with my "Super ColaMariner" so I dug into the parts box and came up with a Sub "maxi-dial" and stuffed that one into the "super incorrect DSSD" and produced the imaginary "Super Submariner". This one looks a bit more believable and I was even brave enough to wear it out in public the other day. I always try to have fun!

This one is kinda embarrassing...

I'm a newbie myself, welcome. There is no such thing as a "Swiss made rep", if somebody claims that, then, RUN FOR THE HILLS!!! All reps are made in Asia with the majority from China but you will learn this and more by searching and reading. I've spent the past two months searching and reading on 3 different forums (or is that fora or fori?) and have just now gotten used to the "lingo"! I buy cheap ones and torture them with various industrial implements but most folks buy nice ones and wear 'em! Have fun...

Very well done with what you had at hand. I always look at new projects to justify new tool purchases to wife.gov, and sometimes it actually works! ;D But, then again, sometimes it don't...

Looks fantastic and very interesting from a "heretic's" point of view! The real wood veneers are not that expensive and might be an option as well >Rocklers venner assortment

Fantastic, I look forward to the pics of my new watch and I truely think you guys are sincere! Long ago, in another life, I supervised the advanced product support department for what was at that time one of the top 5 computer manufacturers in the world. Over the course of a 5 year period I witnessed the company go from this position to liquidation due to "cheaping out" on products and customer support not being able to properly support their customers. I've first-hand witnessed what to do "wrong" and I think eurotimez is at least attempting to do it "right" and until they prove otherwise they will continue to have my meager support.

I think this is great and before I had never considered eurotimez for any purchases. After a few e-mails with NEO on various subjects I have decided they will probably get all of my business in the future as far as "nice" reps are concerned - I'm waiting for my invoice for 2813 powered DSSD V5 right now!!! But, I will continue to buy my $40 subs to have something to experiment with and torture...

On disability for the next month so really don't care what the date is - perfect for "no date" Sub...

Oh, yeah, Bright is right (hey, that rhymes!)if something isn't needed (and is easy to delete) no sense in keeping it around waiting to cause you problems!

Thanks, exactly what I needed!

I have drilled the lug holes in one of my cheapo subs and need to know the specs (or link to) for the proper spring bars. I've looked on ofrei but they just list specs not application. Thanks...

OK, I have "sacrificed" one of my rare $40 Submariners to practice locating and drilling lug holes. I think it went fairly well, I did get one hol a few thousandths off but I don't think it'll really be noticeable when worn. I now need different springbars! Can anybody point me in an inexpensive direction?

Excellent! I have wondered how well those Caswell kits worked. Many years ago (right out of high school) I worked in a plating shop for about 8 months and my dad did that kind of stuff all his life - it's fascinating!

You want to have something that takes a few minutes to actually "stick" as you need a little time to position/align the overlay. It also needs to not be real thick or the overlay might rub on the back of the dial and hang up when flipping to the next day...

Since you have to do some "fine adjusting" of the overlay position to get the numbers to all fall under the date window correctly I don't see how that would be possible unless the wheel was installed. Even then I've never been able to get one aligned perfectly - but I'm getting better!

Mostly with a small screwdriver and magnifying glass. I guess I should be serious since you were nice enough not to roast me! I just swapped dials and bands on the chassis from the el-cheapo DSSD that's down a few posts...

Everybody loved my bargain basement totally incorrect DSSD so much I decided to morph it into something totally off-the-wall. As I explained, I buy cheap reps to have stuff to play with that won't cause me mental anguish if I screw something up. Presenting, for the first time anywhere, the Rolex Suber Colamariner! I swapped the band to a rep Sub band, changed the dial to a totally politically incorrect "Coca Cola" edition Sub dial, and stuck on "maxi-hands". I one is to be a heretic then might as well go all the way, enjoy tearing it to pieces! Hopefully this will bring a smile to some...

Interesting...

That's what I menat about the beancounters winning a round.

Very low grades of stainless will rust. Maybe the beancounters won a round! :-p

That's what carbide endmills and cobalt drills are for! ;-)

Yeah, I can make the holes whatever size I want! :-) And, although it may be considered cheating by some, I can always just locate and drill a shallow hole in each lug and epoxy in a nub of pin just so when examined the watch will at least "look" correct. But, I really rather prefer to locate and drill properly if humanly possible. I've often wondered why watchmakers didn't actually tap these holes and secure the band with two "set screws" instead of a flimsy spring-loaded pin. I may have to do that on one someday, really would be pretty easy to drill and tap the holes. I could then take a stainless steel set screw, chuck it in lathe, and turn down the end of it to the proper "pin" diameter. I'm starting to get excited about this idea, time to order me another $40 Sub and get drilling!!! :-D I looked at your project sub and it IS superb! Mine will not be nearly so nice but hopefully will look OK...

I plan on doing it in my milling machine as soon as I decide the best way to accurately locate the holes. I will spotface where I need to drill with a 1/16" carbide endmill, center drill, then drill the thru-hole. This process will need to be done once per end as once there is a thru-hole in one lug it will be as simple as drilling all the way through the other lug. The drilling is easy, the locating is the bugger-bear...