madmex

In response to your first question, I am drooling at the watch. Such a delicately done tool watch... wow. Regarding the Timezone thread: I am concerned that whoever started the post on Timezone thoughtlessly linked directly to ELs photos on photobucket. I hope this does not jeopardize our dealer's account. Obviously is someone on this board.

TUDOR made a blue sub, IIRC it was available in sapphire during it's last few years before it was replaced with the Hydronaut. This may be a plexiglass model pictured above. I was obsessed with it, but never bought one.

Hey guys, FYI, Richard's Speedmasters are both genuine. I've owned the reduced in genuine, and the rep in the moonwatch (full size).

here's mine.. Notice the quality hands... like a perfect flat sheet of metal

The Swatch group is awesome, in Switzerland. I have dealt with them about a half dozen times. One time I sent a Mido that had some manuf defects on the dial. I contacted them via e-mail. They gave me directions on how to ship, I inquired if they could change the color and hands of the dial (they said yes). They overnighted the watch back--serviced with a new dial and hands, along with a very solid heavy pen. I have heard many complaints of the US service center, although I sent my PR100 automatic to be serviced there (it stopped), and they sent it back looking like new. I purchased the watch in Mexico, yet they still honored the warranty.

Too bad that one says "Professional" on the dial, or it would be more faithful to the gen. IMO, all these chrono reps, although admirable in quality, are easy to tell apart from the gen versions due to the completely different dial / movement chrono layout. you don't even have to have a trained eye.

Here are some quick wrist shots for you--pardon the hairy arm! I really enjoy the pink/white sapphire crystal protruding.... I really like the pointy, rounded-off lugs The clasp is very simple, and very well constructed....

I received mine from King. Who did you get yours from?

Thanks. Regarding the movement, it's probably not a good candidate for an everyday watch., but if you have a few and you rotate them then it's working less. That said, there's some kind of invisible glue on the caseback, and I have been unable to take this watch off since I received it thus far..... If it wore out in say 2 years you can buy another one--maybe a black one!

I'll take some probably tomorrow or later today.

Thanks! Compared to my PT Seamaster it's not all that heavy. But comparing it to other Rollies it most certainly is. Nice, very crisp, clasp! I just love the end-link construction accuracy! (All of my rollies have been off one way or another) Here is a new pic (look at the time, and realise I am CST)...

It seems like forever I had wanted a Daytona, but the reps were just not up to par. The cheapest working Daytona was $1000, and the dial was immediately recognizeable by the wrong positioning of the subdials. Upon finding this forum I was impressed by the new Daytona rep with an Asian copy, with a module imitating the correct position and function. This version has the hi-beat Asian 7750 subseconds @ 6. Here is a shot of the hand alignment. I must say that the chrono has been working flawlessly and has lost 5 seconds in 3 days with mixed chronograph operation. The chronograph seconds hand is a direct-drive so it is very smooth. Chronograph pusher action is crisp, and precise! I am impressed. Hands reset to zero, without any issue, EVERY time. One slight issue with modular chronographs deals with the indirect seconds subdial. There are so many (extra) gears that a little amount of play between these gears multiplies throughout each iteration. This results in a slightly inconsistent motion of the subseconds dial. It is very smooth at certain angles, but at others the play is evident and it appears "jumpy." This is not a defect but rather a characteristic of indirect seconds (again, magnified by so many extra gears). Something you have to be ready to live with. The good news is that the subseconds hand is so small that you would have to stare at it to notice its sometimes odd beat. While this version (and any version using the 7750 copy) is thicker than a gen Daytona, the resulting high polish, high side profile is quite beautiful. Here is an unusual angle depicting it's massive thickness (about 3mm more than the gen). Many times the back of these watches is a tell-tale of their questionable authenticity--bad or innacurate end-links, etc. Regarding the back of this specimen, I particularly appreciate the accuracy of the bracelet end-pieces. The back looks almost 100% original. Probably the full 100% with some tweaking. I hope you enjoy this quick pictorial taken a few minutes ago! Cheers.

Very nice! Now I want one!

Thank you for that! Great article.

Only difference is one or two escapement wheels (and lack of 4 jewels). I had a rep with that movement in it, and I purchased a 2824 to replace it. Instead of replacing the whole movement, I swapped parts. So I probably still have the old wheels and parts. The rest of the movement is virtually the same.

It's prettier than the other one!

Very nice. Huuuge mag. Usually that's the tell-tale, and yours would completely pass that test. So either the cyclops is really bubbly, or the rehaut is very tall, or the crystal is very thick, or a combination of all 3. When I buy mine I hope it magnifies like that... but why keep dreaming. Is that an aftermkt sapphire, or the one that came with the watch? Just like the vintage MBWs fit the genuine plexi crystal, does the modern MBW fit the OEM sapphire the same way? Last question--how much does something like that set one back. I saw a link to George's photo folder, but it's password protected. You can PM me if you want. Thanks!

There are different grades of the same 14kt or 18kt. 24kt = pure gold 18kt = 75% gold, 25% other mystery metals 14kt= ~58% gold content, ~42% mystery metals they "water it down" to make it less soft, and use a variety of metals to do that. Different metals are used for the desired properties (or cost). For instance, copper is used to make "rose gold." Nickel would be avoided for those with nickel allergies, for instance, so there are different grades at different costs. What I'm saying is that you could have 2 pieces of 18kt gold with different colors, depending on what metals were used in the "downmix."

Can you post a picture of the MBW 16610? I don't think I've seen one. I've seen the vintage ones and they're impressive when modded.

The original 295C has a groove for the gasket. All modern sub reps that I have seen use a crystal with a flat side--so I don't think it would fit. The only way to find out is to pull it. The 295 works with the gasket and a ring on top. Like the vintage MBWs. All modern sub reps I have seen are not that complicated--their crystal is flat on the sides and is either held in place with a white gasket or glued in with UV glue.

Maybe you can mention the defect in the clasp and offer to send the clasp back when you receive a replacement. For the money you paid should come good aftersales service. Can't wait to see the comparison shots!

Resident experts: Is this a TWB? MBW? CWB? I am so confused with all these acronyms... I love it. I particularly like the excellent dial, seconds hand (the luminous dot on the seconds hand is NOT on steroids), the excellent end-links (looks like it's a two piece composite end-link), the crown on the clasp, and the correct position of the date window (some have it further out--the ones with the seconds hand on steroids). Does anyone know if any of the resident dealers has this one?

You can probably fix the bracelet clasp easily. One thing you can do is get some really fine sand paper, and tape it to a rigid flat-surfaced object (such as a wooden ruler)... Then sand the defects it flat with plenty of elbow grease. Afterwards you polish it with a Dremel or a polishing cloth, and voila! The clasp is a minor detail and that is a common occurence, in my experience. The bracelet looks awesome otherwise.

PT sells some 14kt Rollies. You may ask him if he has a good 2t sub with the solid 14kt.

Sorry about your bad experience, David. Keeping your cool and working it out with the dealer as you suggested seems like the best solution. Thanks for sharing your experience, at the minimum you have helped out anyone doing research on that dealer. Trust me, that you are not the only one that "fell for that." We all have in one way or another fallen for something--so don't feel bad. Buying dealers and watches is hit and miss. Good thing you have extra protection. keep us updated!