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sneed12

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Everything posted by sneed12

  1. Probably. It was completely flat--seriously, I was using it as a spacer in my crystal press-- so I just bent it back by hand. I will try to tweak it some more, there's a bit too much of a gap between the inside of the insert and the outside of the crystal. It's the one that came with the watch. I contacted trevor to see if I could buy some more as parts, but he seems to think I want 3 more watches...
  2. That is not true. If the watch is not hand winding, it means that the yoke spring in the keyless works was not reset properly. It's easy to fix, but you have to take the hands and dial off.
  3. Here's my point: you've been here a whole two months, I don't know your level of watch knowledge but judging by some of the threads you've posted it's pretty typical for a well-read noob (like I was, not too long ago). If people know you as a "watch guy" and you wear reps, then people have probably noticed your reps. I'm careful NOT to be known as a "watch guy" in real life. I don't want people checking out my wrist. I've taken the train less than 20% of the days I've worked, and tomorrow is 5 months on the job. Not that long. Also, I don't typically do more than glance at other peoples' watches unless they catch my eye. I should amend my statement, actually--this is the first time that I've identified a rep on someone's wrist, not counting times when people have said "hey check out my watch." A number of people have said "Hey, you're wearing a Rolex, so am I" and shown me a $50 21j Noobmariner. (Others have shown me a gen 1675 and a gen 1665 great white, so there is a lot of variability there)
  4. I have done this. Wondering if it would be possible to just attach the current datewheel (as an overlay) to the stock 2836/2846 datewheel. Probably would have to grind the teeth off first, and I'm too chicken to ruin one that way...
  5. Don't wear it around your nuts, you'll be fine. (Seriously--I have a PhD in physics, and let me assure you you have no idea what you are talking about. There is no such thing as "radioactivity steel" and you have absolutely nothing to worry about.)
  6. Worst case, drill it out or take a bolt cutters and cut the link. Links are cheap.
  7. It's fairly clear that he is behaving like a little girl, and I've added him to my mental list of members never to buy or sell from. Having said that, being a [censored]head shouldn't be ban-worthy unless he makes a habit of it.
  8. I'm not an old-timer, but from what I've seen just in the last 2 years, some of the stuff that was high-dollar 5 years ago isn't going to command the same kind of price now... will be interesting to see what you come up with
  9. I mailed two packages to Israel two-plus weeks ago. One arrived in 5 days and the other is still in limbo...
  10. And if they made a Honda that looks and drives like a Ferrari people would buy that too. "Cloning" a movement is not simple at all. Look at all the struggles that the factories have gone through with the SA3135 (kudos to them for trying though). Now imagine a rep factory deciding to try and clone a DD chronograph module. Those things are complicated enough that most watchmakers won't service them, how is a rep factory going to build one, and why would they bother when the 7750-based reps sell already?
  11. What case are you using that will take a gen-spec 16600 bezel?
  12. Put in the Clark's crystal after the kids went to sleep. New crystal eliminated the distortion problem. Also, bleached and fitted the insert. I'm really happy with the way it came out, and I'm sort of pleased that it's beat up because I've been using it, rather than shaking it in a bag of rocks! Wristie (also notice my brand-new floors) I think the only mod remaining is to remove some meat from the bottom of the CGs, the profile is all wrong. But honestly that's low priority for me. Who looks at the back of the watch anyway?
  13. This one was just a spare I had, but I have two on order from that guy. Hopefully they'll be here soon.
  14. Only problem now is that the watch box has grown again... I was trying to keep it to 10, but I have 10 already plus a CHS GMT IIc on the way... that makes 11. I'll either have to get rid of one, or find one more watch!
  15. The new 1675 model has been getting a fair bit of press. I ordered one a while ago, and apparently it arrived last week while my regular postman was on holiday. The temporary guy "forgot" to bother to deliver it to me. When my regular guy came back from his vacation he made a special trip out with. Also, as it turns out, Joe Biden was having a fundraiser in my building today, so the Secret Service shut down the street and we were told that we could work from home if we wanted to. So, of course, I took an hour to play with my new watch... Standard stuff, ETA clone, "superlume" which is much better than rep lume used to be but still not as good as H-factory or WM9 lume. Of course, being me, I had to tear it apart... Inside is a standard, clean-looking ETA clone 2836... One of the best parts on this, actually, is the white datewheel overlay with open 6/9. Does not have the left-justified problem that the PT vintage silver overlay has. I'm going to swap the clone 2836 for a Swiss 2846. In order to do this, I have to remove the parts from the 2836 that drive the GMT hand and swap them to the other movement. I am also going to leave out the gear that allows the GMT wheel to be independently adjusted; the gen 1675 does not have an independently adjustable GMT hand. I don't have any formal watch training so I don't know the names for all of this stuff, but you remove the top cover plate and the hour hand wheel first (GMT wheel on left sits on top of the cover plate so it just lifts off) Then you remove the date mechanism stuff Now I will just install the pile of parts on the left onto the movement on the right. You need to swap the date jumper spring cover plate (which has a bit of a slot cut into it to clear the new teeth on the other side of the calendar wheel gear) as well as the calendar wheel gear. If you want to have the independently adjustable hour hand you also need to move the small gear that's installed where the date flipper paddle would usually go, I am going to leave it since I don't want that feature on the 2846. Install the dial and hands: recase the movement: and now I have a Swiss ETA slow-beat 1675 with the "correct" hand stack (the gens of this era have the GMT hand on the bottom) rep. I also dug around in my parts box and found an old pepsi insert that I have been using to protect bezels from crystal press dies, so it's a bit scratched up and flattened. I've bent it back into shape, and I'll try fading it a bit to give the watch a bit of a worn look. I have a clark's crystal that I will install next, the distortion of the rep crystal is quite bad, but I ran out of time today. Sorry for the crappy iPhone pics, btw, we're having new floors installed and a bunch of my stuff including my camera and tripod is packed up.
  16. Which one? They don't get any better than the WM9 dial (which this is).
  17. None of the subdials on a gen Navitimer like that one goes to 24. Seriously, there are too many tells to easily list. That watch is just not close at all. Nothing wrong with it, it's a quartz rep and if you like it fine, but it simply cannot be make more accurate.
  18. Pearl relumed by vac, installed in a bezel from WSO. In fact, in the pictures here the pearl hole is a hair too big and the pearl isn't quite straight/flush. I ordered a replacement from WSO to try and mount the pearl a second time, came out much better. I'll post a pic of the new insert when I get around to it.
  19. I managed to find a bracelet, too, so it's usually on that--I can't wear an orange strap to the office. But it's fun on the weekends!
  20. Did you use a 2846, or mod the 2824?
  21. If you don't have the patience to wait more than a few hours for a response to your thread, the rep game is probably not for you. I doubt anyone will respond to your thread unless you provide a link to the watch in question. Finally, a cheap rep is a cheap rep... nothing wrong with that, but it is what it is. You can buy a $30 rep, a $300 rep, a $600 franken or a $3000 gen, all of them offer a different value-for-the-money proposition. It's up to you what you want and how much you're willing to pay for.
  22. Does the gen come in blue, do you know? I miss my SOH blue chrono.
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