sneed12

A gen datewheel won't fit an ETA movement, that's why I ask. It's possible to use a 3135 datewheel as an overlay, but you have to grind the crap out of it to make it thin enough to fit between the movement and the dial. BK usually used a custom DW overlay instead, which is pretty close to gen but not gen.

Gen datewheel? How, used as an overlay?

IIRC the v2 didn't use the 2824.

Stick it back into the groove in the bezel (on the inside edge) and press the ring back down on the case.

I'd be interested to find out what gen GMT IIc crystals cost. I'd be in for a couple if the price isn't too crazy.

Polished off the top AR and now it looks good as new, although obviously the single-sided AR isn't quite as powerful as the double AR was. Still good though.

There are multiple tutorials about how to do this. A "3135 clone" is just a clone ETA 2836 with some extra stuff stuck to it so any ETA tutorial should set you straight. You need a dial protector (ie piece of paper) hands puller, screwdrivers and a couple of pairs of good tweezers (I use delrin ones on the hands and sharp steel ones for the keyless works). I've never used a screwdriver to release the stem release, I just use a pushpin and am careful...

I don't doubt that it could happen, because all you would have to do is change the stampings. I just don't see why a rep factory would do that. It costs more than nothing, and why would someone build clone Sellitas instead of clone ETAs?

What makes people think that there are clone Sellitas out there? Just out of curiousity.

Bend it back flat. I've done that before, and I've never not been able to get it back to flat. Unless you taco'ed the bezel so bad that you cracked it, with patience and a firm hand you should be able to get it back to normal.

Bend it back flat. I've done that before, and I've never not been able to get it back to flat. Unless you taco'ed the bezel so bad that you cracked it, with patience and a firm hand you should be able to get it back to normal.

I can see the fact that the "X" in ROLEX isn't lined up with the 25 marker from this pic. Seriously, that's a clear tell in under 1 second. That thread is just sad.

Well, I'm out of town this weekend but I'll have a go this week sometime. I should be able to polish off the top AR without removing the crystal, no problem. I'll just go at it with the Dremel, then rotate it 45 degrees and get what the rider tabs were covering. Should I be using the green rouge or the red (slightly coarser grit), or does it not matter?

I picked up a blue Swiss Steelfish Super Ocean last week for a great price... regulated the movement (it was a Sellita, not an ETA, I was surprised) and brushed the crap out of the bracelet (it was in good overall shape, but had the worst desk diving marks I've ever seen) and now it's nearly as good as new. The AR seems really good, but here's my question: What does scratched AR on the outside look like? The crystal disappears at certain angles, but at others it looks like someone wiped an oily thumb across it. I thought it was just dirty, but I've cleaned it carefully and it looks the same. My suspicion is that it had double-sided AR and the outside is now scratched. Did these come with double AR?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200558049676 I bought one of these for my rep Yachtmaster. It's a nice piece, solid SS not plated brass like most rep inserts.

I think the Noob GMT II and the Noob Exp II have the exact same case, actually. So yes.

Because they sell.

I have a Swiss 2840 in the parts box if anyone wants it... I was going to use it for a project but the vintage thing isn't for me.

Yeah, but for what I paid, if one of the bezels I already have fits then I can junk this one and still be ahead... I've got two Noob black dial explorer IIs (one is from BK, one straight from the factory although it was also sold to me as being a BK Exp II ). If the case is really bad on this one I'll swap all the guts into one of the Noob cases, but if not I'm planning on turning one of the Noobs into a 16710 GMT Master. I've got a bezel assembly from fleabay coming, I hope the compression ring will fit.

I've got this coming from Sead: ETA clone. We'll see how good it looks in person, but I'm excited. I have a Noob case all ready to swap out with, but honestly if the current case is as good as it looks in the pic I might not bother. I'll measure the crystal when it gets here, that probably does need to be swapped. Bezel too, you can see the numbers at 24 touch the edge of the bezel. I hope the Noob bezel is a direct fit because aftermarket Rolex bezels seem quite expensive.

I'm waiting on mine from Sead as well... Did you buy this from the guy in England? I was going to but we couldn't work out the payment, he wanted a wire transfer

You can always clip the feet

Could be a franken, I suppose. Dial definitely looks gen. No rep dial gets the color of the surrounds quite right. Lume is lit up, so it's hard to judge if it's white enough.

I bought a UPO from Spikedlee almost a year ago, black bezel with orange numbers. Through a convoluted process of buying watches for parts I finally acquired a spare bezel assembly as well. I bought an aftermarket orange PO insert on fleabay, ground it down and installed it on the spare bezel insert. I spent last night playing with the bezel retaining spring until I got it to where I wanted it--the bezel is tight and every click is defined, but it pops off with just a caseback knife and light pressure. I can change bezels in about 30 seconds. So now I have a UPO Transformer

You just move the regulating arm. Left hand pic, upper right corner of the movement. All you have to do is take the caseback off, no other disassembly is needed. However, just fyi, 10-15 minutes is kind of a lot. Usually you regulate a movement just a couple of minutes. Good luck.