sneed12

Looks like mine but your slide rule lines up better...

No, I think it'll just tear up your Cape Cod. But give it a shot!

I had the same experience. Which caseback did you get? The standard Navi caseback with the temperature scale? I don't know why the DW is sunken, but it's not because of a transfer plate...

I have the same watch on its way back from Vac, after having the Breitling font DW installed. I hope it looks as good as yours! Which caseback did you want to put onto it? Yours has the Serie Speciale "fighters" caseback and you want the regular one with the temperature scales on the back? If so, I might be up for a trade...

That's not entirely true--I bought a Navi Serie Speciale thinking the same thing, it has the stock subdial arrangement, but it still has a sunken DW. It's off with Vac now getting worked on.

Every hand I've ever seen for a 21j or ETA based Rolex clone has a hole in the middle of the seconds hand where it mounts to the pin. A gen Rolex will have a domed thing over this hole. Take a look at the pics above, it shows very clearly. I suppose canon pin isn't the right thing to say, since you can't actually see it... I'm used to using this terminology to talk about PAMs though.

The very first, easiest tell is the cannon pin. Every Rolex rep I've ever seen has it.

Ummm... yes. Have you looked at the amount of space you have to work with? You'd have to jam another entire wheel in there somehow to reverse the direction, you're talking about developing a whole new movement. This is not something that you can change by adding a plate on top and a couple of extra gears.

11 is .80mm and 10 is .90mm

The Seiko is tap 11, the ETA is tap 10... so I need 11 on the female side. If you could help me out it would be much appreciated, the wedding is coming up fast and this is the last part that I need.

So, I'm building watches for my groomsmen... 8/9 are done. The last one is stumping me a bit. One of my friends hates automatic watches, so for him I've done something a little different. I transplanted the guts from a Seiko 7N42 into a blue ceramic Submariner case I had lying around (polished the Rolex engraving off the rehaut) with a custom dial. Only problem is, the threading for the stem doesn't match the Rolex rep crown (which takes the standard ETA stem). I need a stem extender which will join the 7N42 stem to the ETA thread crown. Does anyone have any idea where to find such a beast? Thanks.

He doesn't just collect milsubs either: http://forums.watchuseek.com/attachments/f7/191896d1244144135-rolex-mil-sub-969-jpg http://forums.watchuseek.com/attachments/f7/191899d1244144135-rolex-mil-sub-1024-jpg

It isn't sunken due to any mods, but it is sunken anyway. I have no idea why. Mine is with Vac now and hopefully he'll be able to do something about it.

My experience has been that clone ETA 28xx will accept all of the gen parts that I've tried. I find it odd that your watchsmith can't replace something. The entire autowind bridge comes off with three screws, you might want to give it a go yourself. It's quite easy. You can pick up a donor movement on eBay for < $30 shipped if you're patient/careful.

Anyone?

I would think you'd be better off selling it and buying the automatic.

Bought a watch off a forum member and he can't find the spare links. It's the 45.5 mm UPO. The bracelet has a half-link in it now, and it needs to be a hair bigger, so another half-link or a full-link is all I need. I would also trade my half-link for a full link if that would help anyone out. Thanks! I'm in Chicago right now but will be in the EU in a couple of weeks.

What is their justification for replacing the rotor? Except for the central bearing it's not as if the rotor is a wear item.

Not only that, they have no lume and no seconds hand...

I am on that once-monthly through Paypal VIP plan... I just noticed that my VIP status has expired somehow, between now and Saturday, even though the regular payment went through on the 26th. Can a mod please PM me to sort this out? Thanks!

I've got a couple too. Same deal, you can have 'em.

I've seen this rep, the countdown does work. It just doesn't work the way the gen does. It's a fairly impressive little piece of machinery for $138 bucks actually.

Her initials are RB, so if anyone wants to do that go for it. I'm not that clever or graphically talented I think I've basically settled on this: I might make the text a bit bigger. I had a Seamaster PO rep on yesterday, and I'm wearing a Sub today, and both of those have 5 lines of text on the dial + the logo. I think my worry of having too much clutter on there is a bit unfounded

I just tried drawing railroad track style indices and they're a pain in the ass to get to look right. With most of the text removed it might be worth it to add the other numbers to the dial... I dunno. Gonna take a look around the interwebs and see what all is out there. Here is a second draft, I guess you'd call it: