sneed12

Is no one listening? It is not possible to install a gen Rolex 3135 dial on an ETA 28xx movement without clipping at least one of the feet. This device is designed to let people install ETA feet on Rolex dials that have had their feet clipped, not to prevent people from clipping the feet off of gen dials.

This is for the other way around, you clip the gen dial feet and then install ETA feet on it You can't, one of the dial feet goes through the balance wheel

you come up with the weirdest questions

Is the caseback closed?

The dial text is also a different color.

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/135979-gen-polar-dial-explorer-build/ same procedure

I've never had a problem assembling a clone rotor to an ETA movement or vice versa. Based on the other information you supplied I'm guessing there's something else wrong with yours.

Also the OD of the rehaut. You can make a gen-spec T21 fit a DW case but it requires sanding/fitting the crystal.

Any crystal with 25-295 will fit. The C2 is the gasket number, not part of the crystal number, but sometimes you see them written together.

Heck, when you said pricey I thought you meant something stupid like $100 a pop. At $25 I'm definitely in for at least two.

2824's don't have the same jumping click thing that 2836s have. The date flipper just turns without jumping, so the click is provided by the date disc teeth and the jumper spring. Small variations of the teeth (remember there are 31 of them) could result in the date flipping at slightly different times every day. The same does not apply to 2836s.

Definitely the best out-of-the-box GMT IIc, but not the best one if you plan to mod it.

3 dial lock...? There are two dial foot clamps, and two movement clamp screws. I don't think there are three of anything...

False. I have done a number of dives wearing watches that were closed with rubber balls. They are not the ideal or the best tool, and I recommend using a proper caseback wrench if you have one, but torque is torque and if the rubber ball is all you have and you're careful, you can seal a watch to be water-resistant just fine.

For most reps, TC tube is actually a better choice (particularly the BP case, sorry I haven't had a chance to respond to your PM). The TC tube is flat, so no countersinking is required. A gen or gen-spec tube requires lots of drilling.

The BP bezel assembly is a monstrosity. There's actually 4x identical springs, 3x little mushroom head pins and one different one that produces the click. If you look closely at the holes you see that the one by 7-8 o'clock is a different shape than the other 4. @ the OP: you need to replace these parts before your bezel will work. You can get away with leaving out 1 or 2 of the mushroom pins, but you need the click one. DO NOT PRESS THE BEZEL OVER THE RETAINING RING. YOU WILL DESTROY IT. Unlike every other bezel assembly in existence, the BP retaining ring is designed to be installed over the bezel. See how the retaining ring has a step in it? The top, fatter part is what holds the bezel down. You cannot press the bezel down over it and you will break it if you try (ask me how I know). You need to put the bezel on the case, then press the retaining ring down. It's a giant pain in the ass. I hate the BP construction.

I do this too, but I spin it using a drill, takes 5 minutes I've done a few by hand, and this way is better!

So... you took it apart, and it came apart, and that is somehow a "serious problem"? Having the bezel assembly come off when you slide a knife under it and pry it up is not a "problem" it's what is supposed to happen. I've noticed the retaining rings from Gary are sort of all over the place. I usually just use the bezel ring and modify the stock retaining ring to fit the Clark bezel.

Since search is down, I'll just repost an earlier tutorial I did I don't have any formal watch training so I don't know the names for all of this stuff, but you remove the top cover plate and the hour hand wheel first (GMT wheel on left sits on top of the cover plate so it just lifts off) Then you remove the date mechanism stuff Now I will just install the pile of parts on the left onto the movement on the right. You need to swap the date jumper spring cover plate (which has a bit of a slot cut into it to clear the new teeth on the other side of the calendar wheel gear) as well as the calendar wheel gear. If you want to have the independently adjustable hour hand you also need to move the small gear that's installed where the date flipper paddle would usually go, I am going to leave it since I don't want that feature on the 2846. Install the dial and hands:

As Freddy said, the movement ring (and movement) have only one possible orientation: the stem hole has to be lined up at 3, and the movement ring needs to be installed on the movement such that the stem goes through the cutout. There is no indexing involved. It sounds like your gen dial, which doesn't have feet, is rotating on your movement. This is a different problem. Your hands and dial need to come off, and the dial needs to be remounted. This is why I use glue rather than dial dots on dials with no feet, to prevent this sort of problem.

The movement holder should hold the movement tightly enough that no indexing is needed. I don't understand what you are asking. There are a million tutorials on how to recase a movement.

I've had two CHS ETA movements running without problems all day every day for well over a year.

By-Tor, the "BP" GMT IIc is the only GMT IIc case that I know of which has the gen-style bezel construction. I've used it to build a couple of GMT IIc frankens. Here's a pic of the case stripped down: The search function seems to be down, but I'll try again a bit later and if I can find some links to threads I've posted showing more pics of that case / details of the builds.

Uh... gen AR most certainly can be scratched and removed.

Gen dials have different construction--the markers aren't "cups" like a rep, they're "rings." The lume is painted right on the dial, it's much harder for it to come off.