sneed12

It is not too small. That is the size that it is supposed to be. There are literally hundreds of pictures of datewheel overlays installed on movements in this section... look at pretty much any of my build threads, or anyone else's.

That's sort of the point

Uhh... "not hard"? "Stop if it feels like you're going to break something"?

Don't necessarily believe that either... the modder who does this work treats it as super secretive, refuses to show pics of the process, and refuses to do side-by-side tests to prove that it does anything. Out of a dozen or so sec@6 7750s I've had, only one has given me trouble... yes they can be problematic but don't borrow trouble. @ the OP: nice watch. Wish I'd known for sure this case was still available, I just wasted money taking a chance on an older Daytona case on the off chance that it had better construction than this one!

Crazy that the green doesn't have the OFFICIALLYCERTIFIED problem but the newer blue dial does. It's not just the angle. Having said that, centering a datewheel overlay is relatively simple and you can do a better job than the factory will.

No, they don't. This is the hole: The Sub LV posted above has the cap. Even in macro pictures, it's hard to tell because the geometry of the cap means that there's usually a black reflection in the center, but the 16610 Submariner definitely has had the cap for at least 15-20 years. You can clearly see how tricky it is with the light in these two pictures, the cap is clear in this one but it looks like there's a hole in the center in this pic Same watch shot at the same time, it's just a difference in the reflections. I don't know what to tell you. When you say things that are incorrect, expect to be corrected.

That's not true at all, it's been used for at least 15-20 years.

Not a lot, IMO. If they're ETA rep hands... It's not that hard, but at the same time if it's your first time I don't think I'd start on a watch I really cared about.

This is simply not true. Manually winding a 7750 (if done gently) is 100% fine.

"Fit new tubes"? The way you fix this, if you're trying to reuse the hands, is with a staking set. I've never heard of trying to fit new tubes.

You've addressed the major potential problems... the only thing left is if the gear itself is slipping, and the only way to fix it that I know if is to glue it and remove the independent setting functionality (or replace it with another).

The cannon pinion is the wheel which carries the minute hand and is driven by friction from the shaft of the fourth wheel (which carries the second hand). When you do a cannon pinion swap on an ETA 28xx to the H4 height, you need to swap the cannon pinion, hour wheel, and fourth wheel. It's not just one part.

No, he's not. The cannon pinion is something else.

Nope--the Asian clone and gen parts both work exactly the same and pretty much seem to have the same level of finishing. They're stamped steel parts. It's just a consequence of the way ETA designed the keyless.

I know we're mostly guys and a bit of skin is all in good fun, but... wouldn't it be nice if we maybe toned down the outright pornographic avatars a bit? There's plenty of places on the internet to go if you want skin. It'd be nice if I didn't have to turn off avatars at EVERY rep forum...

1) Very few posts 2) Very short time on the forum 3) Linking to a product at a dealer we've never heard of Yeah, no thanks, I'll pass. If this is a real thing our trusted dealers will have it soon enough.

ETA 28xx movements don't use a stem retaining screw. @ the op: here is how you reset the keyless http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/132392-eta-keyless-tutorial/

It's an Omega, so you can source a gen caseback if you like. The question then becomes, will it fit the case you have? Yeah, those terms still don't mean anything. "Asian 21j" as used here refers to at least three different models of movement, and there are at least 3 different 25j movements I can think of off the top of my head, and the ETA 28xx movements have come in 17 and 25 jewel variants. And if you're talking about the most common swap (a DG2813 for an ETA 28xx) you'll need hands, and you'll either have to cut the dial feet or source a new dial, and a stem. The 21j to ETA or clone swap has been discussed to death here. Like I said, it's in your best interest to learn exactly what you want done before you start paying people to do it. As an aside: I hate the new way that quote boxes work, it's really hard to split someone's quotes up

I very much want to build that first watch but in blue Even better if I can find the lollipop hand

Searching for "blue ceramic bezel insert" shows this listing http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARVING-CERAMIC-BEZEL-FOR-SUBMARINER-OR-GMT-38MM-BLUE-/190802520268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6cb768cc

$25 on ebay.

Case requires significant drilling to fit a gen crown/tube. See my other thread about my blue Sub-C built on a BP case. The crown/stem/tube construction is the same on the BP sub-C case and the BP GMT IIc case.

Bezel retaining ring isn't pressed on quite evenly. Unfortunately, with the BP sub, fixing this is (IMO) a giant pain in the ass even with a good crystal press given the way that the bezel assembly is constructed.

Before you select a modder, figure out exactly what you want in terms of mods. "Proper" caseback doesn't mean anything. What's wrong with the one you have? Where are you going to source a proper one? How will you ensure it fixes whatever flaw your current caseback has? Do you know if it will fit your case? Why do you want to do a movement swap? They are pretty easy if you're going to the same movement, much harder or impossible if you're trying to go to a different movement. What do you mean by "new bezel"? The bezel itself or just an insert? Where are you going to source a replacement part?

Rafflestime (~40-60) and ingod (~100+) and that mahand guy (~100) or whatever his name is on eBay.