yeldarb

I have recently got a sub from TT, and I too have has the glidelock failure.  Andrew has arranged for a replacement bracelet to be sent to me after I posted a video showing the failure.

 

Which model did you buy from the TT website, and how much?

 

Mine was only a cheapie at $138 plus $70 shipping (Triangular) and has several flaws, but I can live with them until the time I start to mod it.

 

Like yours, my marker at 9 is off, so too is the triangle at 12, which yours looks slightly better than mine, hence why I asked about price you paid.  Your dot markers appear to be larger than normal too, and could possibly be LV dot markers. (Green Bezel sub).

 

There is a saying, and it is true in the rep world, you only get what you pay for.

Yeah I bought the same one as you did, the $138 one with the Asian 21 jewel movement. Andrew has replied back to me and said he will send me a new clasp.

Hey everyone, I received the new BP 116610 from Andrew earlier this week and I have learned my lesson.............do not order watches during Chinese New Year cause everything is backlogged so QC pictures were never sent to me, neither was tracking. It just appeared on my door step. Anyways first things first, the watch cyclops is positioned horribly over the date window and it is quite obvious when you hold the watch in hand, secondly the bezel insert does not line up with the dial indices, especially the 45 marker as shown in the pictures below. Then there is the glidelock clasp which is poorly put together, but this is expected as there are a lot of moving parts so I wasn't expecting much from this. But basically the glidelock clasp failed me as there are two tiny balls that are used to lock in the adjustment and one of these balls fell off. The thing still locks but it isn't as secure. The release mechanism for the clasp is held on by a spring bar and somehow this gave way and I can't put it back as the spring bars won't lock into the small indents. In general if you order this watch make sure you get QC pictures and ask the dealer to test the glidelock clasp to make sure everything is functioning properly. I already e-mailed Andrew and he told me to send it back. Nothing wrong with Andrew, he is a great dealer but sending it back is just a hassle. 

Hi everyone, I bought a rolex datejust from Josh which has oyster bracelet with the polished center links. From my knowledge the rep factories didn't do a very good job with the bracelet, specifically the polished center links of the end links. I believe they protrude out too much whereas the gen bracelet tapers at the same angle as the lugs. Is there a dealer with the proper oyster bracelet?

Thanks

Brad

On any of the automatics, move them closer slows them down, move them apart speeds them up. That adds or reduces tension on the hairspring. Need I say, make very small adjustments. Also, stop the watch when you make the adjustment,If you were to touch the hairspring while it was running, Instant death to your movement. Hope this helps

Thanks for the tip, 'instant death to your movement' gave me a chuckle. But I've noticed on some eta movements such as the 2846, the smaller hand is covered and seems rather difficult to even reach it without taking some parts out as illustrated below in this picture. How would you regulate this?

Hi everyone I have a rolex explorer with the DG 2813 which has 6bps, I would like to change it to 8bps but it seems as though that my only option would be to go for a DG 4813 but hand stack would be too short? Is there an alternative?

Thanks

Brad

It seems as though that most members, when they're buying a submariner 16610 one of their biggest concerns is the crown guards. However when I compare pictures of different 16610's it seems as though that even on the gens the crown guards aren't very consistent either. Looking at the pictures below the first picture is a pic of my gen 16610 and if you look at the crown guards they're more squared. But now look at the picture below it, the crown guards are more like triangles which is found mostly on the reps. So what's up with this, is it that we are all anal or is it true that Rolex 16610 crown guards vary?

Hey my DG2813 is running fast and looking at the regulator there is no + or - sign so I was wondering if I move it counter clockwise to make it move slower? Here's a photo.

I took apart the keyless works again and this time I had the stem in place so that I could continuously test the mechanism for smoothness and now it works like a charm. Thanks for your help guys.

Thanks

brad

Okay so I just finished fixing the keyless works on the ETA 2836-2 in my datejust and glued back the overlay onto the date wheel which took me a while cause I'm a noob, and now after putting everything together the crown and stem are giving me problems. After pulling the crown out to set the time I have trouble pushing the crown back in, the spring inside the crown is depressed all the way but the stem isn't locking into the date change position and normal position. I have to press it down multiple times, synonymous to the Joker in the dark knight in the blowing the hospital scene, before it engages. Should I get a new stem? Also it's quite hard to screw down the crown it seems like either the threads are messed up or maybe the crown and stem are slightly bent. Would a new crown and stem help or is this a problem with the keyless works again?

Hi everyone I just fixed my ETA 2836-2 as I messed up the key less works. Anyways as you may know with a date wheel overlay it's nearly impossible to get the date wheel off so I had to peel away the date wheel overlay. Anyways I want to put the overlay back onto the date wheel and was wondering if there's a recommended glue for this?

Thanks

Brad

Since the stem can not be fitted back in at the moment I can not set the hands manually for the 12 o'clock position, would it be bad for me to push all the hands to the 12 position by directly pushing the hands themselves?

Thanks

Brad

I have removed hands and replaced hands with tweezers. I can't recommend this method as I damaged the hands doing this.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2

Yeah I tried that with a beater and it didn't turn out too well. So I just went and bought a Presto hand lifter and hand presser on eBay. Here it is, is this any good?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330718619407?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3009wt_1185

Thanks

Brad

So how exactly does the mechanism that keep the hands on the watch work? From my limited knowledge the rod that holds down the hands is depressed which then allows all 3 hands to come out simultaneously?

Thanks but I don't have the tools to remove the hands so need to wait for those.

Hi everyone I was taking the stem and crown off to place a little bit of silicon grease but when I tried to re insert it I could not. I depressed the stem removal button while turning the stem clockwise, hoping it would catch the gears but I guess while I was doing this I did not notice how much pressure I was placing on the stem removal button and the button just "broke" cause now the button isn't in the hole anymore. Here is a picture below, so what can I do, should I bring it to a watch maker and have him fix it?

Thanks

Brad

Hi just want your opinions of these QC pics from Josh. My only gripe with this is the rolex engraving on the clasp, it looks smudged but Josh said that they're all like that.

Thanks

Brad

So asian eta-2836 can be serviced as if it were a gen swiss eta 2836?

Hi everyone, I have a C-Sub from trevor on the way with the Asian 2836-2, I would like to buy a genuine eta 2836-2 and replace the asian movement. My question is how hard would this be and would I need to change the datewheel?

Thanks

Brad

I'm considering buying a datejust, this one in particular http://www.1-pc8838.com/rdjms10036-black-dial-stick-markers-28362-p-1315.html and I was wondering why they use the ETA 2836-2 when there is only a date function even though the movement is built for day date. I ask this because I would like to place an ETA 2824-2 inside the watch, is this possible?

Thanks

Brad

I love this watch but I am not too sure how accurate this model is. There seems to be a lot more info on the 43mm carrera with the red push button and day date but not a whole lot of info on the more conservative 41mm here http://www.trustytime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=41_210&products_id=1224 is this a good buy?

Thanks

Brad

I've got one from reg recently and yes rotor is a bit noisy. But my bezel is one way.

Strap was poor but I changed that.

Not had it open yet

But then again what you expect for 68 good for the price...

________

sent from Galaxy Tab overcome rom

I guess I was expecting a bit more cause everyone was giving it such extraordinary praise. But for 68 pounds, it's roughly the same price as josh or andrew's which i think are better.

I've heard of such good things of Narikaa's noobmariner that I had to buy one to see for myself. This was back in February and when the watch arrived I was rather disappointed; compared to Josh's beginmariner they were pretty much the same watch but the noobmariner from narikaa had many issues. First of all the rotor was extremely loud and something was lose, so I opened the back and a screw was loose. Then I checked for the serial number, i did my research and genuine noobs are suppose to have the serial F520117 but mine had M092117, the exact same one as josh's. I asked Reg about this but he didn't give me much reassurance other than "these things happen, I QC'd the watch before I sent it." The bezel with little effort can be turned clockwise for about 5 clicks. Can anyone explain this or is Reg just blind?

Thanks

Brad

Dont know what you are talking about. Are you on the wrong site?

http://www.timesshop.net/213-rwi-special-offer?p=6

Hey Jkay, yeah i'm going on the link you posted and it says welcome please sign in. E-mail address and password?

How do I get onto timeshop, there's a e-mail address and password?

May I ask where you got the vintage looking omega?