yeldarb

Yeah I bought the same one as you did, the $138 one with the Asian 21 jewel movement. Andrew has replied back to me and said he will send me a new clasp.

Hey everyone, I received the new BP 116610 from Andrew earlier this week and I have learned my lesson.............do not order watches during Chinese New Year cause everything is backlogged so QC pictures were never sent to me, neither was tracking. It just appeared on my door step. Anyways first things first, the watch cyclops is positioned horribly over the date window and it is quite obvious when you hold the watch in hand, secondly the bezel insert does not line up with the dial indices, especially the 45 marker as shown in the pictures below. Then there is the glidelock clasp which is poorly put together, but this is expected as there are a lot of moving parts so I wasn't expecting much from this. But basically the glidelock clasp failed me as there are two tiny balls that are used to lock in the adjustment and one of these balls fell off. The thing still locks but it isn't as secure. The release mechanism for the clasp is held on by a spring bar and somehow this gave way and I can't put it back as the spring bars won't lock into the small indents. In general if you order this watch make sure you get QC pictures and ask the dealer to test the glidelock clasp to make sure everything is functioning properly. I already e-mailed Andrew and he told me to send it back. Nothing wrong with Andrew, he is a great dealer but sending it back is just a hassle.

Hi everyone, I bought a rolex datejust from Josh which has oyster bracelet with the polished center links. From my knowledge the rep factories didn't do a very good job with the bracelet, specifically the polished center links of the end links. I believe they protrude out too much whereas the gen bracelet tapers at the same angle as the lugs. Is there a dealer with the proper oyster bracelet? Thanks Brad

Thanks for the tip, 'instant death to your movement' gave me a chuckle. But I've noticed on some eta movements such as the 2846, the smaller hand is covered and seems rather difficult to even reach it without taking some parts out as illustrated below in this picture. How would you regulate this?

Hi everyone I have a rolex explorer with the DG 2813 which has 6bps, I would like to change it to 8bps but it seems as though that my only option would be to go for a DG 4813 but hand stack would be too short? Is there an alternative? Thanks Brad

It seems as though that most members, when they're buying a submariner 16610 one of their biggest concerns is the crown guards. However when I compare pictures of different 16610's it seems as though that even on the gens the crown guards aren't very consistent either. Looking at the pictures below the first picture is a pic of my gen 16610 and if you look at the crown guards they're more squared. But now look at the picture below it, the crown guards are more like triangles which is found mostly on the reps. So what's up with this, is it that we are all anal or is it true that Rolex 16610 crown guards vary?

Hey my DG2813 is running fast and looking at the regulator there is no + or - sign so I was wondering if I move it counter clockwise to make it move slower? Here's a photo.

I took apart the keyless works again and this time I had the stem in place so that I could continuously test the mechanism for smoothness and now it works like a charm. Thanks for your help guys. Thanks brad

Okay so I just finished fixing the keyless works on the ETA 2836-2 in my datejust and glued back the overlay onto the date wheel which took me a while cause I'm a noob, and now after putting everything together the crown and stem are giving me problems. After pulling the crown out to set the time I have trouble pushing the crown back in, the spring inside the crown is depressed all the way but the stem isn't locking into the date change position and normal position. I have to press it down multiple times, synonymous to the Joker in the dark knight in the blowing the hospital scene, before it engages. Should I get a new stem? Also it's quite hard to screw down the crown it seems like either the threads are messed up or maybe the crown and stem are slightly bent. Would a new crown and stem help or is this a problem with the keyless works again?

Hi everyone I just fixed my ETA 2836-2 as I messed up the key less works. Anyways as you may know with a date wheel overlay it's nearly impossible to get the date wheel off so I had to peel away the date wheel overlay. Anyways I want to put the overlay back onto the date wheel and was wondering if there's a recommended glue for this? Thanks Brad

Since the stem can not be fitted back in at the moment I can not set the hands manually for the 12 o'clock position, would it be bad for me to push all the hands to the 12 position by directly pushing the hands themselves? Thanks Brad

Yeah I tried that with a beater and it didn't turn out too well. So I just went and bought a Presto hand lifter and hand presser on eBay. Here it is, is this any good? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330718619407?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3009wt_1185 Thanks Brad

So how exactly does the mechanism that keep the hands on the watch work? From my limited knowledge the rod that holds down the hands is depressed which then allows all 3 hands to come out simultaneously?

Thanks but I don't have the tools to remove the hands so need to wait for those.

Hi everyone I was taking the stem and crown off to place a little bit of silicon grease but when I tried to re insert it I could not. I depressed the stem removal button while turning the stem clockwise, hoping it would catch the gears but I guess while I was doing this I did not notice how much pressure I was placing on the stem removal button and the button just "broke" cause now the button isn't in the hole anymore. Here is a picture below, so what can I do, should I bring it to a watch maker and have him fix it? Thanks Brad