rsh

TC subs did have engarving at first - it was quite off from gen in all honesty, the wm9 v1 (aka TW sub) and wm9 v2 had engraved rehauts and those that did were more like gen than wm9 v3 and v4 (v4 being the tc case) later tc cases have been sterile

that is some horrible lume application

That is very nice my friend, wear it in good health, Much better investment than a rep, should get better with time like fine wine.

I recently built something similar, the Clark crystal retainer had to be sanded extensively, did you find this to be the case also ?

thanks alot man

I am curious, does anyone know if the GEN 16610 clasp ever had a REGISTERED SWISSMADE versus SWISS MADE ? Thanks

I think one could use a 2836-2 datewheel, though it MAY make the dwo sit too high and rub the bottom of the dial

I found that a dwo swap on the 2824-2 is more challenging than the 2836. If not done right, it can lead to your dwo sticking or more confusingly shifting off the datewheel itself. This is because the 2824 datewheel is flat. The 2836 dw is not flat and has a higher platform that rides above the level of the movement. The flat 2824 dw literally sits below the level of the keyless works cover, I think it is part 462 in this link Http://www.ofrei.com/page1232.html When you attach the dwo, it rubs on that metal cover and dislodges the dwo. The 2836 does not have this problem since the elevation built into the actual datewheel lifts the dwo over this cover. Solution – elevate the dwo a bit. TC uses dial dots to achieve this and attach his dwo – I don’t like this, it makes it impossible to fine adjust the dwo. Here is tc dwo with dial dots 　 Once you remove the movement from the watch, you remove the dial and hands by releasing the tab holding the dial feet, one of the 2 tabs is near the bottom in this pic Underside pic My solution, take a piece of sticky paper, such as any labels you can print on. Use the dwo and draw outline of the dwo. Cut the circle out and fold it and cut the inner aspect out. Attach it to the bottom of the dwo but only on the outer perimeter so that the inner perimeter is clear of anything. This simple trick gives you a bit thicker dwo on the outer edge and is enough to elevate the dwo I use this stuff, as it dries fairly slowly, 5-10 min work time I use a small amount of the adhesive on the actual datewheel, small amount is key You then set the dwo on top and place the dial on there, if not well aligned, remove the dial and adjust the dwo, make sure you check the alignment with different dates At the end, you can have something like this Tip: use gloves to handle dial so that it is not damaged during this alignment process

The strap is as it comes, the parts are basically from TC, TC is a supporting vendor and all he sells are 16610s at the moment (and YMs). The TC sub is a great base for mods and frankem projects though as this proves, frankening is not always necessary

Here is the recipe TC sub - latest with v3 strap / v4 clasp TC LN dial ( bought a few and swapped lume markers to make a good dial) TC hands - well, almost - I bent the seconds hand so I superlumed some seconds hand I had and used it BK dwo TW insert, with a watchmaterial pearl (a very good one) The crystal is TCs with 2.7mm gasket , stock TC crown........ even has a rep movement (tc movement)

2824 is the proper movement for a TC case or a wm9 v3 case, TW case takes a 2836. Sean case 2824....

Hey Ceo I hope you wear it in good health. BTW this is all REP, nothing gen in this build... pan its a tc dial..good eyes

Here are pics of my new 16610, what do you guys think ? Can you spot the flaws ?

Nothing yells rep like crappy "diamonds" ....thank goodness, many including Trevor can get it with the basic fluted bezel, I had just recently asked about that....send a pic to him trevor123.bobo@gmail.com you can also ask andrew/josh to get it with the basic bezel, my wife has it with the oyster strap, nice combo

How about a datejust with floral dial....you can ebay it for pics...most dealers can source it with the "flower dial" as they like to call it

If the dates are well lined up otherwise, you may just need to elevate the dial a tad with a spacer (small one). The REAL fix is to remove the dwo and reinstall using smaller sticky material. I have found that the dwo on the 2824 needs to be propped up to clear the gear retaining cover on the right side near 1-2 clock position. TC uses double sided sticky tape. I use thinner material to stick on the back of the dwo first than glue it in position.

408 dollars is a joke.....wow....

I while back BK had posted a link to kickstarter where a new company was planning on a rubber strap for rolex sport watches. I signed up and finally after a few weeks, look what showed up. I would like to review the bands for my fellow watch lovers. I ordered 2, at the time they had an orange planned and a black. To my surprise, a green and black showed up which I actually prefer. I am told that the orange hue was not as desired so they will be redone. I may decide to keep the green instead, I love it. Let me start by saying, these things are have a very smooth texture, but not the sort of thing that lint sticks to, if you know what I mean. The strap feels very sturdy, not cheap as if it can tear if you pull on it. The spring bars hold the strap nicely in place. The thing I really like is the support shelf they built on to the inner aspect, as it hugs the rim of the case back and this keeps the REL (rubber End link - not SEL) firmly against the case so that no gap is ever seen. I purposefully have it on snug so that you can see how it keeps perfect tension on the watch head. This is ingenious really. The rubber size is something I was wondering about, like would they need different ones, etc ? Well it seems they made an average length such that the 7.5 inch wrist guy like me uses only one link besides the divers extension. If you have a small wrist, you can attach it to the divers link directly and then adjust the divers link in the clasp. I would think that the smaller wristed guy will like it more as the original link probably wont be used. Either way it looks great. I did place the green one on the LV but I was a bit turned off by the greens not matching. But I love the green on the Black sub as it is simply gorgeous. BTW the last thing I want to say is that the swapping is so easy. My sub's metal bracelet is not so easy at times, but this is a breeze because there is plenty of room on the sides to access the spring bars. Nice product, enjoy the pics.... They can be purchased at [url=http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/redirector.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Feverestbands.com%2F]http://everestbands.com/[/url] Pics of the LV sub with black strap Pics of black sub with the green strap Now the classic sub with a black strap, a bit more subtle look Wrist shots :

Dan the tube looks perfect there buddy !

What an ahole that guy is

I am thinking this may be a tc strap, what do you guys think ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-93250-bracelet-for-Submariner-GENUINE-/170942019389?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27ccf0373d

Very nice Tony

Here is my franken 16610 guys.....

OK the sean tube is funky.....so is the crown. Sean crown goes down fairly flush but the gen crown does not .....I have seen this. A TC tube or a WM9 tube will do the trick. You remove the sean tube and attach the tube. I think I have a wm9 tube that will work AND accept your gen crown and make it flush. Do you know how to swap out a tube ?

Holy crap Dan.....this is one expensive build. Your watchsmith needs to tap the case for the gen tube or you can use a rep tube and attach gen crown to it. Easier to go this route. Back to this build, have you considered perhaps selling these parts and just buying a gen ??