Ditto. An amplitude below 260 may be due to insufficient charge of the mainspring or a dirty movement, but 200-ish may indicate a problem with the balance/hairspring.
I have cleaned a number of gloss dials with (clean) rodico & never left the slightest mark (& I am neurotic about those things). But can you give me some details on that optical cleaning solution?
Well, I did say $500+. That is the '+' I was talking about.
All kidding aside, it is alot of cash, but, in the context of vintage Rolex, quite reasonable since I paid more than $500 for my pre-owned 5513 dial.
Hard to say whether the bezel is gen (this is a case of buy the seller before you buy the part), but the insert is either gen or an extraordinarily good fake.
Without an (original) sales invoice from Rolex (the 1 in Switzerland) or something (verifiably) similar, complete NOS (new old stock) kits like this should always be considered highly suspicious. Unless, of course, you are willing to get duped.
On some cases, a knife blade may not fit in between the ring & case, but a razor blade in a window scraper will. In some cases, I have spent 20 minutes working a window scraper blade around a ring before I was able to create enough space to move up to a knife blade. You just have to be patient & work carefully &, eventually, it will come off.
Your dates are correct, but I am afraid your dial is probably not. It looks aftermarket to me. Here is a gen from the end of the series (late 1960s) for comparison
I really want to love this, but it looks odd. I hate to say this, but the dial looks like a repaint, the GMT hand tip looks weird & the bezel is wrong for a '42.
It may simply need the effective length of its hairspring adjusted (simple adjustment for any professional watchmaker), but all mechanical watches require overhaul (disassembly, cleaning & oiling) every 5-7 years to maintain good, consistent time.
The 5514 (made/offered only to Comex & never offered to the public &/or for retail sale) was designed for saturation divers, who required a valve in their watch to allow trapped helium to escape while in decompression chambers.
The caseback number is a Comex specific number, which is separate/unrelated to the Rolex serial number. I have never seen any verifiable documentation describing Comex's numbering system (& with the ongoing debates over what Comex actually received from Rolex, this should all be taken with a grain of salt), but my guess is that the initial (test) pre-Comex Subs (circa 1970-ish) would probably have had 2-digit caseback numbers, while all later deliveries would have 3 digits.