freddy333

I was referring to the cases only (I will leave the subdial spacing debate for another venue). I have installed both A7750s & V72s into these cases (the V23, being a V72 without the hour totalizer, will also fit). (1st watch fitted with a V72 - 2nd watch fitted with an A7750 - 3rd watch fitted with a V72 -- all with the same case I referenced in my previous post) (I am certainly not the best judge of these things, but I do not see anything that is 'WAY' off here - $50,000+ gen at left, $300 rep at right) I have said it before & I will say it again now - these A7750-powered vintage Daytonas with asymmetrical pushers are the BEST BUY in the rep world today.

Great sighting. I wish I had the extra cash....

Ditto Alligoat.

I just noticed this notice on ebay from the distributor of The Daytona Bible -- AFTER OUR SELLING HUNDREDS OF THIS PUBLICATION THE LAST YEAR AND HALF THE PUBLISHER IN ITALY HAS JUST INFORMED US THAT THIS BOOK IS OUT OF STOCK AND NO MORE TO BE PRINTED. WE HAVE ONLY A FEW BOOKS LEFT IN OUR U.S. WAREHOUSE. IT APPEARS TO ALREADY BE A COLLECTORS ITEM. The price has already doubled since I got my copy last year, so they are probably not bluffing. Here is the link (or search for 320275204903)

Since stainless steel does not, by definition, stain, the yellowing must be on the surface. Have you tried just cleaning it with soap, detergent, Windex or a stainless steel microfiber cloth (available online & at most hardware or home furnishing stores)?

I hope you feel better though, R.

It will look amazing, covered with cobwebs, sitting in the bottom of 1 of my watch cases.

I agree with Ziggy, but you have to be sure your Rodico is new/clean, otherwise it can leave a film behind (the material picks up dust & oils during use & can redeposit them onto the dial surface). You can also use a dial brush and/or hand blower (both available from ofrei.com or other supply houses) to clean the dial. I use Windex (or non-ammonia spray glass cleaner for AR-treated crystals) on the inside of the lens, wiping it clean with a lint-free cloth or paper towel. Follow this by blowing any residual dust/debris out of the inside of the case or inside surface of the lens with a can of compressed air. Before recasing, I always do a final check by placing the case (lens side up) onto a dark colored surface (I keep a dark green Rolex 'wallet' on my work table for this purpose) & inspecting for any remaining dust/debris that may be adhered to the lens due to static electricity (this is the stuff that most watchmakers do not usually see, but which a critical owner almost always obsesses over when he gets his watch back) Anything found is either blown out with compressed air or removed with a clean piece of Rodico (air is always best since it leaves NO residue).

Cats - I have no idea what post you are referring to, but my guess is that the cleaner referred to is probably a Cape Cod cloth, which does a pretty good job of polishing polished metal (do not use it on brushed metal as it will polish out the brushed texture). Search google.

Correct & here is something that demonstrates the point -- This Daytona 62xx case set is sold by a small number of sellers for $1,200-$1,650+. All of your DWs or Jewelryandwatch frankens use some variation of this case Pretty nice, right? Yes, definitely. And if you are a WIS who wants an accurate vintage Daytona franken, you have to pay the price. Right? Wrong. This A7750-powered Daytona 62xx rep (with asymmetrical pushers), which comes in the exact same case as the 1 above (both pusher styles are available), is sold by a small number of sellers for between $300-$350 The point is that both cases are exactly the same. The only difference is the price & the (assumed) exclusivity that is (wrongly) associated with the bare case set. I think it was either Avitt, Ubi or Alligoat who once said (correctly) that these cases are worth less than $100 at retail. And I am sure they are routinely being sold for $50 a pop in China. Regardless of the model, the pattern is the same.

I agree. As long as the buyer does his homework & comes prepared (knowing what he wants & what details go into making a good suit), any tailor should be able to make a great suit. But some tailors do require a slight bit of prodding to get your money's worth out of them. Dupont

Great link. Thanks.

Love that wristie.

That is a beautiful watch, Helmut.

Time's looking mighty scenic today in Bruges. I am stuck at work with a mountain of paperwork & this

A long time to wait, but it looks like it was worth it.

Twist the stem back & forth as you insert it. Sometimes, that will help to align everything. Also, try turning the case upside down (dial on top). Ziggy may have more to add, but that is all I can think of. I am pretty sure that something just moved out of alignment.

Is the chrono running or in the ON position? If so, switch it off & reset the hands? Have you checked the stem release or tried engaging it while inserting the stem?

Wearing my beater on this colorless Wednesday But what a day for a daydream

Great work, Alli. I have to agree with Chief about the datewheel -- it makes the watch.

It sold for alot of money to be sure, but I am still surprised it did not go higher. In today's Rolex market, $25k is a good price.

Thanks to all who posted their buying experiences from this site. Based on these reports, it is clearly a dead end.

Nice work.

To find diamonds, you have to dig through alot of coal.

Yes. The minute totalizer (subdial at 3) is graduated in 30 minute increments (1 complete sweep of that subdial = 30 minutes). Each time the large, center chronograph seconds hand makes 1 complete sweep of the dial, the minute totalizer should move 1 increment on its scale. After the minute totalizer completes 2 sweeps of its scale (60 minutes), the hour totalizer (subdial at 9) should move to the 1st mark on its scale, denoting 1 hour. (The subdial at 6 is the watch's running seconds hand - this should be running constantly on the current Daytona 1165xx model.)