freddy333

I think your creation looks too good for that datewheel, but I think the owner should be very pleased. Good work.

Thanks RG. I love this place.

Yes, this is what I had to do with 1 of the DW Daytonas. Not only difficult, but dangerous since tiny metal shards are flying around your eyes at very high speed. Even with eye protection, still a pretty nasty task. During the work around the rehaut, I thought I had killed the case. But after filing & sanding down the rough spots & installing the movement, it all looks perfect. Unless you use a loupe & know exactly where around the rehaut the problems were, you cannot see anything. It is kind of amazing that the damage you see through a loupe, caused by dremeling, is often completely invisible to the naked eye when you put everything back together, even at close inspection

Ziggy -- That makes sense. I assume the outer ring you are referring to is this 1 (you removed the 3 screws in the red circles) I will have to give that a try if I have problems getting the 1570 to fit my MBW case. Thanks, and again, great work as usual.

A NOS Ebel movement just went for $1,350 on the bay a few days ago. I posted an alert in another thread, but I do not know if an RWG member got it. This was only the 2nd 1 I have seen for sale in the past year.

Something modern on hand today

Thanks Ziggy. Now I can see that it is a standard MBW DRSD case. You should consider adding a working HEV before returning the watch to its owner. It would be a shame to leave that etching on the side of the case after all the other work. I am curious about the work you did on the movement to get it to fit into the case. Specifically, why did you choose to remove metal from the movement instead of the inside of the case? Compared to a working 1570, an MBW case is worth alot less, easier to replace & generally easier to work on (since you do not have to worry about where the metal shavings are going while you are working on it). And if you were not planning to disassemble & clean the movement (after modding the plate), how can you be sure you did not get any metal bits in the movement during the metal removal? I had to remove a good bit of metal to fit 1 of the V72s in 1 of my DW cases and, at the time, I considered modding the Valjoux's plate instead of the case. But I could not figure out any way to keep the metal fragments from getting into the movement during the grinding. At the same time, I figured that any metal bits left in the case could be easily washed out after I finished modding the case.

Ziggy -- It is difficult to be sure based on the pictures you posted, but I do not think the hands are gen either. Here is a comparison of gen vs aftermarket hands.

The earlier non-Oyster case Daytonas used 6mm Twinlock crowns (single line below the crown), the later Oyster case models like the 6263 used 7mm Triplocks

In this case, I think it says more about the importance of having good, clear pictures than the difficulty of telling gens from reps. But as reps get better, the differences become less clear.

I guess they got inundated with requests for the catalog after the pictures hit TZ & then raised the price. I still think it is a must have.

Every rep Triplock I have seen looks exactly like this 1 does. The biggest giveaway are the wide, flattened dots. Ubi posted a set of pictures comparing gen & rep Triplock crowns early last year (or maybe the year before). It is worth searching out.

I went through that stage myself & it makes sense with some watches, but not Daytonas. Vintage Daytonas are thoroughbreds, as pure as a Ferrari Daytona. As you learn more about these iconic watches & your experience level increases, you will change your mind. Trust me on this, I have been there. And just about everyone else who has been there will tell you the same thing.

Too bad it does not have a gen dial or hands, but quite a nice piece. Has Ubi seen it yet?

The pictures are not up to your usual quality, RG, so I am not positive, but it looks like an aftermarket (Viet Nam-made) case & dial (possibly aftermarket bracelet with gen end links - cannot tell for sure from the pictures), otherwise all gen. Also, the insert looks a bit strange. Not so much the insert itself, but the way it appears to be fitted into the bezel (not pressed in all the way?????).

The A's in 'Daytona' had flat tops on the gens.

The usual for me too

Congratulations & best wishes for a ticking good future.

Way.

Whatever that camera is, the pictures look spectacular. Still wearing the beater

Worth? No idea. I paid $75 plus shipping right after the auction was announced. If they are still available, Antiquorum can give you details. The book is also available as a free downloadable .pdf file from their website, but the hard copy is much, much nicer.

Try a no date Sub & do not base anything on the size of reps -- they are rarely made to exact dimensions, regardless of what the seller says. I do not have the case dimensions for those watches handy right now, but maybe someone else will.

Oh, someone just sent me a box I wonder who it's from? I wonder what is in this package? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oh, just another book...........

The 'scratches' over the date window look more like dust on the inside of the crystal. Since these watches are never assembled in clean-room environments, you should not expect to see the same degree of cleanliness & quality that even the average Swatch or Timex receives. Small bits of debris & dust in rep watches are inevitable & I would not expect the collector to see or remove these (just my opinion). If it bothers you (it would bother me), find a local watchmaker who works on reps & let him deal with it (you might also have him service the movement, since most reps contain used or unserviced movements). Just be sure to inspect the watch carefully in the watchmaker's shop before you leave. Even under the best of conditions, it is difficult to see/remove ALL dust & you are going to be more critical than the watchmaker will be. As far as the second hand goes, I have to disagree with most of the previous conclusions -- I do not think the hand is damaged or missing paint. It looks more like there is a speck of dust or debris on it, which, again, is quite typical when the watch is not assembled under the cleanest of conditions (rep watches are often assembled in peoples' homes). And as with the dust, any watchmaker should be able to determine exactly what it is.