freddy333

Interesting, but how did you conclude that Leiter wore a Sub? In the Connery films, I only ever recall catching the briefest glimpses of Leiter wearing something that looked to be on a black strap. In fact, it was Leiter who, in I believe Thunderball, commented to Bond that, "I see you're still wearing that old wristwatch of yours with the big phosphorous numerals". Had Leiter been wearing a Sub, I would expect a comment citing the similarity between his & Bond's watch. No?

Not to worry, my friend. You are 1st on the waiting list. You may be right about the Alaskan weather & its effect on an old xtal. And if Nanuq froze out there in the ice, they might see that black dial & think it was a lump of coal. Maybe, something to coordinate better with the snow

Once they are populated with apps to perform health diagnostics in real-time (blood pressure, blood glucose levels, etc), it will make (some) sense. But, for now, it is just the next 'cool' techie thing from Apple that becomes a must-have until the next 'cool' thing takes its place. 20 years from now, barring some global apocalypse, Rolex watches will continue their ascent of valuable collectibility & the Apple watch of today will reside next to the 1st gen iPod in the bottom of your sock drawer.

cavi - if YOU like them, that is all that counts. But, for most of us, a quartz watch is akin to a Prius car. For most guys, a watch, like a car, has to have a mechanical engine or it is not a proper watch (or car). 1 notable exception to this is the battery-powered Bulova Accutron watches from the '60s & '70s, which are semi-mechanical (the second hand sweeps & the movement hums) & very collectible

Just past midnight & wearing my Phase I '42

That would work.

Love it! But I would probably fill it with a nice rifle.

I know what you mean, but on a large plasma, most DVDs lack the image quality of Blu-Ray. In other words, they suck. Adding to my dilemma, I understand that Sony & Phillips will be releasing an entirely new 4K format late in 2016 that stores ~300GB per disc that will ultimately replace Blu-Ray. Sometimes, I think I should just stick with VHS & a 19" B&W CRT set.

If you are looking for a step up or have the cash to plunk down on a V72-powered goldie, you might check out some of Phong's wares. Though, before clicking the buy button, I would strongly recommend that you search out some of Ziggy's old threads detailing some of the issues most 'factory-built' frankens arrive with. Definitely, not for the squeamish.........or impatient.

Nice to see Ubi wristing today & the 'Benz pic looks super. Reminds me of a recent pic of the Z Phase I has not seen much wrist time lately, so that is what I am wearing today

Remember to use a bit of Loctite.

Thank you for posting your experience. I know the problem is unrelated to either the hardware or software, which leaves the media. When you say you had the best luck with Sony, does that mean the Sony discs worked without problems over repeated plays or just did not fail every single time?

As per a number of recommendations 2 years ago, I have been using Verbatim BD-R DL (Dual-Layer) media to archive video data. However, in nearly every case, after 1 successful playback of the disc, each subsequent playback results in the video freezing after about 100 minutes into the disc. I have tried 3 different players with similar results & 2 different archiving programs, same result in all cases, so I think the problem must be the Dual-Layer media discs. As I am archiving alot of old, video tapes that cannot be replaced, I need to find a reliable way to archive them onto 1080-capable disc media for HD television playback (hard drive backup is not an option in this case). Anyone have experience with a Dual-Layer Blu-Ray disc media that has provided permanent, reliable playback?

Considering your premise, I think you did very well. 1 thing though - until you replace the pearl, I would lose the 1 that is in there now. Oh &, if you want to mimic the strap from Goldfinger, the Bond strap should be 16mm

Hard to tell from that pic, but it looks like it may be a 1940s Precision. Value, depending on model & internal condition is probably somewhere between several hundred & 2 grand. If you can get better pics (all sides & the movement with caseback removed) & the numbering between the lugs, I can probably give you more info.

Works for me.

Typical fake. Most telling give-away are the (too-)serifed 'cowboy' fonts. Research some gens & you will see what I am talking about.

A couple of suggestions - 1st, either tilt the watch or move the camera away from it so you do not see (or get so much of) the camera's reflection on the xtal. Sometimes, due to ambient lighting conditions, it is best to move the shoot to a different location. So instead of taking the picture on your desk, move outside & wait until late afternoon when the sun is just starting to set (this is called 'the golden hour' in picture taking circles). You will get the best light then. 2nd, set the size of the picture to the camera's largest setting so you can back far away from the watch. Then, you can crop the image down to remove the excess, leaving the watch image the same size it is now. Taking the pic with the camera so close makes it nearly impossible to avoid seeing the camera in the xtal. Sometimes, for the sake of a great pic, you gotta do what you gotta do. But, in most cases, it is best to either tilt the watch or move the camera back. 3rd, read your camera's entire owner's manual & practice, practice, practice. Knowing how to properly use your camera will go a long way to taking great pics. Once you learn the basics of good picture-taking, like driving a car, it becomes 2nd nature. By the way, most of my pics are taken with a 12 year-old 4MP Canon point-&-shoot.

When the school opened, the though crossed my mind as well. But, unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your point of view), I have a well-established career & live too far away to commute. Good luck & enjoy the experience.

1st, you have to learn to position the watch (vs camera & light source) so there is a minimum of reflection on the xtal. Then, if the dial details look a bit washed out due to ambient light, you can select the dial area in your photo editing program & up the contrast over it to increase the details. You have to be careful not to overboost the contrast, though, because it will make the dial look too dark &/or artificial. It is a balancing act that can sometimes remedy an otherwise good pic or create an odd looking questionable 1.

Blurry, out-of-focus, dark or distant pics are generally spell a scam.

Proper xtal for the '42 is the 115 (116 for 1675). Hard to be 100% either way about the clasp (still think it is new manufacture), but I would dispute most of his claims. I am not poo-pooing the watch - it was lovely - just citing some issues with the seller's description. And considering he has since removed the item, I think he probably agreed.