momo650

- sent from my iP6 -

Love that strap!! Where did you get it? 

Simply outstanding!!

LOL...I will try to remain patient but as you know all too well when you can see the light at the end of the tunnel on a lenghty project it's almost impossible to sit still!

Can you clarify for me the difference between an MX vs. Pre V buckle..... is it the shape??

Correct PeteM,

I'm trying to get as close as possible to the PreV PVD Logo swen in, however was hoping someone out there was Repping them. I found a few Gen's available, but am hoping to seriously avoid that type of investment. I read somewhere that RF no longer offers this buckle, but I did PM him anyways to see.

Good day fellow members.

I've been searching hi and low for the above mentioned buckle to no avail. Would anyone have a source they could share with me?

Thank you in advance.

Personally I like to have something that may or may not be correct.... like a variation on a theme.... thats one of the reasons I love Panerai's

However if I was asked 'what you should have for acceptable accuracy?' then go for anything between 29 and 89 except the ones ending in 0 (ie 20, 30) etc

Thanks so much!

All I need to do now is get in touch with Jakob!! :-)

As for batch numbers, OP have declared around 100 of the 202a's were finished with the poor quality varnish though DG states it as 90.... however these were not all released within the first 90 releases... for example DZs was around 130 and contention is the cut off at 160..

Thanks PeteM.

For the sake of historical accuracy, what are a few other case back serial numbers (other than the one used on your 202A) would you recommand for my 202A non matching build??

Here is my rep of the 202a... It was one of the first models made for sale to the general public by OP. As I recall and I am sure someone will chime in when the 201a was released for sale this model was only available to the Italian Military... Hence the Marina Militare. However due to the popular demand for the 201a, OP decided to release this model for general release.

As with the 201a the dial comes in several versions, The Matching, Non-Matching, Thick (Fatty) Indices, Thin Indices, however there are variations on depth. Also the Non Matching dial only comes in the Fatty indices.

The non matching refers to the colouration of the lume, with the first batch of 202a's made the varnish reacted with the Tritium lume this caused a rapid change in colour... as soon as this was spotted OP changed the varnish... so only the first batch in serial numbers has this quirk.

As the hands were never varnished the colour remains constant allowing for aging of course.

This is the same for the 201a, in terms of Non-Matching as above.

By definition there are only 2 models that can be Non Matching, The 201a and the 202a.

I decided to go with Non Matching hence the serial number and thats also why I am selling the matching dial

HI PeterM,

Great looking piece...I love non matching sooo much!

I do have a question regarding the proper case back serial # for Non matching 202A. Is there a certain range of serial # that are applicable only to 202A Non matching? You mention that the discolouration happened on the first few watches. Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Vac has one I think.

Hi Denisegold,

Want do you mean Vac has one? Does Vac have a 202A from DNS?

Thansk.

Perfect!

Thank you all for your advice.

Stay tuned as I've placed the order with DSN, have made arrangements with The Zig to mod this baby up and am placing an order with GSD for a complimentary strap.

I will post pictures once it's all done.

I hope someone can help me out. I've been trying to change my "member's title" on my profile but have had no luck.

Can someone please help?

Thank you in advance.

Here's my 322 next to my 217. A really lovely piece the 322 and should give it more wrist time that it getting.

http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k574/barjo650/?action=view&current=IMG_0874.jpg

GEN Pre-V dials can be seen in various shades depending on climate etc.

I like the non matching dials more that's why I will have the dial relumed to "dark orange".

It's better to have the dial unlumed from DSN and ZIg can then relume it and have that recessed look in the indices/numerals.

Thanks Gianton,

I agree as well and the non matching dial is what I will opt for, but what is the most common lume colour for a 202A?

DSN for a budget 202A or a custom build.

I am building one right now with:

111J case with NO AR crystal

DSN new 202A dial/hands (dial relumed by Goin)

DSN new Pre-V CG

T48 crown

Swiss 6497-1 movt with H3 CP

Jakob 202A CB

DLCed and modded by Avitt

Hi Gianton,

when you say "dials relumed" are DSN not as per Gen? If so, what should I be asking for if I should purchase DSN's 202A and want to have those dials relumed? I am fortunate to live very close to The Zig and have had several watches serviced by him and would not hesitate to have him relume this project for me.

I would like to learn these types of details, hence why I spend most of my time on the forum.

Thanks.

Hello Fellow members.

I've long wanted a 5218-202A and over the last few months I've notice DSN and DW offering up their versions.

I realize that building one myself would be the preferred method, but I unfortunately lack the patiences and the knowledge to do so. (If a member has a 202A build they are looking to sell PM me) )

If you didn't have the time to search, purchase and build your own, which one would you purchase and what minor changes would you make to give it a more Gen look?

DSN:

DW:

I appreciate in advance all comments and thoughts.

Thanks!

Hi all,

I'm looking for a website which sells really good quality rep panerai.

Actually looking for a PAM112.

Please advise.

Thanks.

Hi Bensoup,

Welcome!

Go to the main page and scoll down to the heading "Watches, Clothing and Accessories". There you will find trusted dealers. I've purchased a few from Davidsenjpn and have always been very happy with quality.

Good luck!

Micah's Burgundy, looking great to me!

Beautiful colour combination. Great job!

Contact Zigmeister mate...He is in Canada too So no customs issues and you have the master to do your work...

That's great...thanks PeteM.

How do I get into contact with Zigmeister?

Where are you based Mo?

I'm in Toronto, Canada.

The problem with the PAM288 crown is that it does not disengage from turning the stem when it is pressed in. In other reps, when you press in the crown to screw it in, the crown does not turn the stem. For PAM288 and even the AP ROO, the rep factory perhaps save cost and decided not to make the crown the way it should be. Hence, when you screw in, you are actually also turning the stem, winding the movement. If the movement is smooth, its not too much of a problem. However, for A7750, most of them are dirty and hard to wind in the first place. So you need to exert a lot more force to turn. This force and misalignment of the threads will cause the tube to strip easily.

You cannot do anything about the crown, so best to get the movement serviced so that it will not take too much force to turn. Also use the technique to push the crown in and turn anticlockwise (unwinding the crown) until you hear or feel the threads click in. Then tighten the crown. This way, you can be sure the threads are aligned properly and will not strip it.

Thank you Ranger.

Is ther anyone in particulare you'd recommend to service the movements?

@momo650, I would not directly send it back to the dealer, because it does involve a slight risk of chinese customs and shipping risk. When a screw down crown does not easily screw in, it could also mean that there is some dirt or small steel dirt inside the crown. Most often that can be easily solved by a local watch smith. So if I were you I would first try that before sending it all the way back. Small problems, arrange locally, big problems, send back to China...

Good luck!

Thanks Hooky.

I agree. I think what I will do is wait it out, perhaps find someone locally to take a look. At the end of the day if the only problem with the watch is the stiff crown than I should be grateful. Rather that than to be out of a watch thanks to Chinese customs or every worst, being scammed! The watch is absolutely great not to mention it extremely accurate. I wish I knew this forums existed years ago, everyone is so helpful.

Thank you all for your advise.

Not really! If it was QC'ed properly, that should have been caught easily! Sounds like it was drop shipped!

What does "drop shipped" refer too? I've seen it several times on these boards but don't know what it really means.

Yep, if it's like that now, it certainly won't get any better!

So I shouldn't worry about sending it back, this is common practice in the rep world?

hi everyone.

I'm new here and this is my first post. I wanted to get your advice on whether it’s worth the trouble or not to send my Pam 288 watch back for repairs based on the following. I ordered a Pam 288 and received it promptly last week. The watch is as expected and advertised. Everything is working correctly and I'm very impressed with the quality with the exception of these two issues. 1) The crown is extremely difficult to screw back on....to the point where the tips of my fingers hurt. If I don't add significant force then there is now way I can get the crown to screw on. I also don't want to end up stripping the threads 2) I have other automatic watches and when I shake to wind I don’t really hear anything but a slight noise of the watch winding. With the PAM 288, I think I hear something either loose or it's simply noisy when you wind it. Can other PAM 288 owners confirm they also hear something rattling or does my watch indeed have something loose?