jdavis

You will definitely need a date wheel overlay. The overlay is glued to the ETA date wheel and relocates the position of the date to match the Rolex date window. This is a trial and error process so you will probably have to adjust it several times to get it properly aligned with the date window. You can find a date wheel overlay here...date wheel overlay. Click on "Repair Tools" and scroll down about a quarter of the page, you will see both the yellow and white. The correct one for the TT sub would be the yellow. To give you a visual of this process go here....Stilty franken project He is using a gen date disc but the process is the same. Dial dots (small dots with adhesive on both sides) can be purchased from any watch supply house. I purchased mine from Jules Borel but, Otto Frie as well as others can supply them. These can be placed on the top of the movement in areas where there are no moving parts or on the dial spacer ring. I have used double faced tape folded over several times to allow enough room between the dial and movement for the date wheel to move freely. Good luck with your project!

Tension is adjusted in the clasp by increasing or decreasing the arch of the inner folding sections of the clasp. More arch lessens tension while less arch increases it. If your clasp is difficult to release or fasten the tension is too tight. Slowly increase the depth of the arches a bit until the desired tension is reached.

I can't imagine that any harm will come to your watches from this winder. It looks no more aggressive than a watch would go through under normal use. Another advantage might be that it should be much quieter than the traditional winder.

Those gaskets are for the case back. I have never seen anything like this installed with a bezel. In fact, the only gasket that I know of near the bezel is the crystal gasket which doesn't look anything like the rubber "O" ring type gaskets pictured. I imagine that the loose bezel you described is more likely due to a loose bezel retaining spring (hexagonal shaped wire) that may have been compromised when the bezel was removed an reinstalled. BTW, It should not be necessary to remove the bezel to modify a bezel insert.

You might give King a try. Although I have never purchased from her, I understand that she will send you a picture of the exact watch that will be shipped for your approval. You should write simple and direct sentences as her English is limited and she uses an on line translator. Perhaps someone with direct experience with her can verify.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will check with Narikaa to see what is available. I found the JLC on Joshua's site

Alarmed....not really but, I have found myself in need of a watch with an alarm feature. I've haven't been able to find a rep with an alarm and have been looking at Seiko as well as a few others. Can anyone offer a recommendation?

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As others have stated, both of them enjoy stellar reputations for products and service. I have used both dealers over the years and in my experience, Joshua has proven to be the most accommodating and conscientious. That isn't to say that Andrew is bad, in fact, he is quite good.

Freddy, that is the exact information that I received from an experienced master watchmaker as well as from my Rolex AD. The only caution was to wind it slowly as winding it simply duplicates what the rotor is doing. I think that The Zigmeister may be referring to the typical unserviced rep movement that we receive which might be prone to excessive wear due to lack of lubrication.

As I understand it the 2836-2 with the IHS isn't the "time bomb" but the CHS is the problem. If that is the case, I would think that you will gain little by this transplant considering the possible problems you might incur. If you decide to go through with the plan, you might PM Silty to see if he could provide a movement holder for this swap.

You could send it to Rolex but, you will never see it again

I would be very surprised if Andrew or any other dealer will make an exchange due to buyer's remorse. But, why should you have remorse. Your watch is a quality piece and will last for years with proper care. It isn't perfect (no replicas are) so, don't worry about the nit pickers and wear it and enjoy it. The typical person who sees your watch will have no knowledge of such flaws and will probably think it is as beautiful as you do.

You will need to find someone or a metallurgical lab that can test the metal on a Rockwell hardness scale. A sharp eye might be able to spot a variation in color as well as the brightness of the polished metal.

I'm certain that this is a nice case but, isn't $610 plus shipping a hefty price for a TW rep case?

Contact Joshua at Perfect Clones and tell him what you want. He can provide what you need.

It seems that the lady in the kiosk damaged the keyless works. As TeeJay stated, find a good independent watch repair shop and ask if he will work on your replica that has an ETA movement. Many watch makers are not rep friendly but you won't know until you ask. You should never have taken your replica to a Rolex dealer/repair shop. You do not have a Rolex and therefore have no business doing this. You should know that doing so is frowned on by this community.

I've ordered hands from Fasil (a.k.a. Mr. Slimball) for a Datejust. The minute and hour hands are passable however, the second hand doesn't measure up. The shape lacks the roundness of the genuine and the length of the short blunt end isn't correct. I found near perfect set at Borel for about the same money. They also offer good sets of Mercedes hands for ETA movements.

Thanks for the information guys. There doesn't appear to be a definitive answer because of the inconsistent changes Rolex is known to make at various times in their production. I am in the process of putting together a 1980 version of a 16014 and was concerned about the correct date disc. From what I have gathered, the open font seems to be the most correct for this year of production. BTW, Thanks, Silty for providing the movement holder. It really makes for a smooth installation of the ETA into the Rolex case.

Don't you think one faker running for office is sufficient

The dealer that sold you the watch is your best source. He will know the correct hands for your watch and should be able to pick up a set from his supplier. Your chance of locating a vintage set from another source will be slim to say the least.

When did Rolex change from open 6s and 9s on the date discs? I feel that it occured some time around the mid 80s. Perhaps it was when the movement was changed from 3035 to 3135 or with the model change from 160xx to 162xx although I don'[t know the exact dates of these changes. Is there an online source where I might find this kind of information?

I have worn my gen Datejust for many rounds of golf with no ill effects. In fact, I doubt that the action of the golf swing is as violent (or it shouldn't be) as many seem to think. I have also played many rounds with my reps and have had no issues at all. My current favorite watch for golf is a rep Aqua Terra on an alligator strap. The Tiger Woods Tag has a quartz movement and should work well for golf but, the rubber strap might tend to collect perspiration on some.

In my experience, the postal worker will leave an "attempted delivery" slip in my mailbox. It says that a second attempt will be made the following day or that I may present the "slip" at the post office after a certain hour for pickup. On the occasions that I have picked up the package by presenting the slip to the postal clerk, I have never been asked for an ID.

Rolex knows it's products are in demand by the quantity they must produce to satisfy dealers and consumers. They sell all that they produce each year. The idea that buyers set the price rather than sellers is only partly true in this case. Rolex has discovered (as many manufacturers have) that they can raise prices slowly and on a regular basis until they detect a negative change in their market. Therefore, in this sense, Rolex is in complete control of the market price for their product. At this point, Rolex hasn't approached the ceiling price that Rolex buyers will not pay to own this prestigious brand. You are correct that the Explorer I and Explorer II do not have the triplock crown. The reason is that they are not a diver's watch and therefore do not require the extra gasket. Rolex installs the 6mm crown that is also found on the non ceramic GMT, Datejust, and President on the Explorers.