1680

Gosh! Use the search function, this has been discussed many times and recently as well.

@SSTEEL: no not really. You press the hands onto the pivot/stem of the second gear or the pinion of the minute / hour wheel. If you can't press the hands down, you probably need to enlarge the diameter of the hole (of the hands) but just a fraction of a millimetre. A drill bit would be to imprecise, so you use a broach. If you forced the hands onto the pinions chances are you damage something (pivots, jewel). Hope this helps (no, I'm no watchsmith)

Personally I don't think it's necessary to dry it this way, I regularly clean my watches with water and soap and only dry and polish them with a soft towel.

Open the diameter of the hands, thats sometimes necessary to fit them. And you use a broach for that...

The last post is more then 6 years old ?!?!?!?!

Hi Ronin, totally understand. To be honest I'll do the same and wear my 1016 on a 93150 (78360 with 93150 clasp) I want that extra bit of "safety". And it's not uncommon, when you ordered a Explorer back then it was possible to get it with a Fliplock clasp.

Personally I don't like the 1016-leather combo, doesn't work for me since the Explorer is the pure toolwatch. Over all I don't like the 7206 that much and I think I would put a 7836 or 78360 on it. Imho it would be more correct since you have a service dial. I would sell the 7206 and get a nice 7836/78360 instead and you have probably a bit money left as well.

You are right, however the OP didn't ask for the best rep insert

Get your watch pressure tested somewhere (costs something between $0-$15) then you know. And in my opinion it has nothing to do with the watch being gen or rep, even the gen you should test regularly.

I like the 1680!

It looks like, but why does it bother you? That's easy to fix and the case needs some modding anyway.

? The 16030 and 1016 use a 6mm Twinlock crown for a 6mm tube, a 16200 and later use a 6mm crown for a 5,3mm tube, or what do you mean ? It would be new to me that there is a crown that is only used for 1016s. The 1601 has a shallower rehaut, slightly slimmer case and the caseback is too small (1601/16030 50m; 1016 100m -> improved caseback). IMHO the 16200 has the best rehaut and a caseback that is closer to the 1016, however the position of the lugholes are wrong (they should be closer to the tip) and the drop and curve of the 16200 is not like the 1016 (1601 does look better in this point). For the dial problem: it is fairly easy to reduce the diameter of the dial by sanding the edge, you don't need a lathe for this. Only be carefull with the brass dust, cover the dial with a good masking tape. A few turns on sandpaper the try to fit the dial into the case. I am excited to see the outcome! Am a 1016 myself

About the 1019: I think it wouldn't be an easy built. I was on the lookout myself but couldn't find a decent dial nor any hands.

But the prices drop, IIRC a gen LV insert was about +550€ 2 or 3 year ago, now you can get them for $400 (310€).

What you need is a 1575 GMT movement; a 1575 is a 1570 COSC movement with date complication (but there are lot of 1575s out there, that are stamped 1570, but technically it is a 1575). Do you have a 1575 GMT allready? If not I would think about it twice, they go for +$2.3k here is an example http://www.ebay.de/itm/VINTAGE-ROLEX-26JEWELS-SELF-WINDING-GMT-MOVEMENT-1570-/271157065006?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2238752e Do you want to build a 1655 with a sapphire crystal ?

Thank you M, now I'm not sure if I still want to use the service T22 on mine... the dome looks simply gorgeous, I love it! Are you kidding ? You you pressure tested the explorer?

A gen one.

+1

I don't know, watch this video below, I had to laugh so hard I nearly cried. It seems he really believes his own word...

Very good idea! I've built something similar to glue on the bergeon dial feets. Works better then gluing the dial to the movement spacer.

Forget the case from Natalie, it doesn't even has lugholes and the shape of the lugs isn't correct either, it looks more like a 16220 case (lugs wrong). You could shape it if you spend a lot of time or money on a modder to do it, but for the price... You'd better spend the money on a gen 16000 case, which is closer to a 1016. For the dial: if you really want a Space Dweller, take the ingod dial. Very good printing however it isn't 100% correct. Finding a good Explorer dial can be very difficult, Nathalies are to expensive (sometimes you can find a gen dial for that money), the ebay ones from mahand1 are not too bad, yukis are wrong and MBW dials have not the T<25 text. If you want a normal Explorer or Space Dweller, well ... you decide.

Yes, numerals look a bit strange, I also don't like the gaps and font of the Explorer and Oyster Perpetual text. That italian (pen) seller has a few strange things lately.

Thats interesting, have you a photo of such a clasp? Z: if you can, please post a pic from the side.

why can say that? I've never seen any gen clasp with 6 adjustment holes, that is always the biggest tell...

As far as I know (and believe me, I searched a lot) you can get this part itself. My advice: go on ebay and buy a complete sterile 19mm bracelet and take it apart. e.g. http://www.ebay.de/itm/19mm-Oyster-SS-Quality-Watch-Bracelet-all-Matt-/150904782822?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2322a03fe6 rafflestime is known to be trustworthy as well