1680

Causemann http://causemann-zifferblaetter.de/ they are really good. And you could try Deutsche Zifferblatt Manufaktur GmbH, Pforzheim, Tel. 07231 586990.

C'mon, who can't remember? Get off... http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=264616

With these older movements you will often find different models with movements that didn't belong to that watch originally. Hacking movements are or were more sought-after like in the 1016, you will find enough models pre '71/'72 that should have a 1560 but that have a 1570 instead, movements get often swaped. Second thing is repair, 15** parts are interchangeable so parts often got mixed up or people put "wrong" movements into watches, Roley guys weren't this picky back in the days And please post pics of your Explorer !

It's not really a vintage it's a sapphire Datejust. All you need is a gen modern Datejust dial and the Tudor hands, a dial you get for $40-200 hands are $20. And that jubilee looks disgusting ... put it in a cleaning solution, pure alcohol or an ultrasonic cleaner.

Hello, today I worked on a ETA 2783 for the first time. I had a bit trouble with the keyless, it seems all levers are in the correct position I can switch from winding to time setting position. But when it's it winding position I need to apply a bit pressure onto the crown to wind otherwise the crown will spin freely, when it is in time setting position I need to pull the crown a bit whilst setting, otherwise it does not work/set properly. It seems that the sliding and winding pinion don't engage properly and jump over. I couldn't find any oil charts or similar, so I am not 100% sure if there is any part missing... Does anyone have documents or know this kind of problems? I would be really grateful! Cheers

Then it would be nice to know how much you paid ? Dial and hands look ... ahm ... interesting

These type of endlinks already exist, don't they? Look for Etur, imho look better than the kickstarter ones. + Nato with endlinks looks stupid...

Maybe a stupid question: but what is Superlume? I only know Super/Luminova, Lumibrite, Watchlume, Lumilux and a few others. What makes lume to Superlume? Is there a definition? Or is it just another funny rep term?

Did the stem break flush with the threaded tube? Or is there a little bit left outside of it. Eventhough you ordered a new you could try to boil the crown for 10 minutes in water, I read that this helps sometimes to get it out.

It's an interesting discussion, but where should this lead to? Should be the definition be written down and everyone convicted when he uses the term "gilt dial" for a gilt printed dial? As always it is interesting but ridiculous at the same time.

Do you exchange the whole auto winding assembly? Make sure the new one (from the dead movement) is cleaned and oiled propperly.

It is fake, bracelet, claps, endlinks.

+1 do you have better pictures, does it have the T-type endparts for 382 endlinks, or the other one for 280/258/380.

Ah c'mon guys... there is so much possible with Photoshop it isn't that difficult to get someone "tattoeed". And for me the "blood" simply looks like a red coloured gate, looks like the typical impact-resistand red paint you use in the farming industry.

You often ask about sapphire watches, so assumed you ask for a sapphire crystal? If you meant a plexi then yes they show rainbows like Nanuq and freddy said.

@Erict: I never noticed this...

But the TC is not a 116610 rep

Bergeon 10040, $15, you get 100 because they come in differend sizes (diameter). If that is too expensive just get any kind of copper rod or cable with the right diameter.

Do you want a 93150? Then I don't know one reason why you should buy that bracelet. Whats wrong? Solid mid-links, wrong diver's extension, wrong ref number on the clasp blande, wrong last link construction... It costs $68 (!), a Cartel/Mary 93150 with correct hollow mid-links, 93150 marked clasp, correct extention should cost about $50 if you contact them.

No, a 1016 Explorer never existed in gold. However there are earlier, more dressier Explorers. The 6098 for example has no Explorer text on it, however it is considered to be the Mt. Everest watch since Dr. Charles Evans wore that watch when he tried to reach the summit in early 1953, a few weeks later the famous Mr. Norgay and Mr. Hillary reached the summit of Mount Everest they had a 6098 on their wrists as well. The 6098 exists in gold with the so called star dial with a black or white dial, one with a black dial was auctioned for $300k.

haha you're so funny NOT I asked here on the forum and Uwe was recommended. I've been in contact with 3 dial companies and 4 modders in Europe... I decided to contact him and that was a good decision his work was marvelous. Edith: let it put me this way; if someone asked me for a relume guy I'd recommend him, if someone needed a watchmaker/modder then probably not.

I totally understand and appreciate your post, it made me think whether I should contact him in the future for different type of mods. I've been looking for someone with a lot of experience with reluming, and he was the only one whose lume work I really liked (since The Zigmeister didn't accept any new customers).

Sorry I don't want to be an ass and I feel very sorry to all people who have problems with him. However as I said, I had best experience with him, only about 2 weeks ago. Maybe it's just because I only had one dial relumed.

Don't get mislead by the estimated, the W196 was auctioned for about $27mil, estimate was about 1/10 of it. And like devilseam said, don't forget VAT and the buyer's premium! But to your other question: why don't you buy the watch you like most?