bedbug

1966 Type: Automatic chronometer certified Caliber number: 564 Created in 1965 24 jewels Central sweep-second hand Date Stainless steel Case back - Screw-in Dial - Metal, with luminous metal hands Crystal - Armoured hesalite Water resistance - 30 meters Thierry according to caseback numbers. Fot morse ceartainty, please post a photo w visible serial no.

Well, as per usual the answer seems to be "utfg" - use the effin' google. Found quite a lot of info through some searches. Problem is that the information differs. Firstly, it seems there's some agreement round the fact that these kind of numbers in qc pics is for "smoking in a pipe" as someone put it. That new movements need to be "worn in". Some sources have my amplitude as well within what's acceptable. This leads to another question that's not related to QC, but rather to interest. Since the amplitude is a measurement of the balance-wheel "swing" and , and this being controlled by the spring, will the amplitude grow as the spring gets older and, as I imagine, -also weaker? Is my logic totally out of bounds here? However, will ask trusty to ship the watch. Cannot find any obvious flaws in the pics. Anybody have specifics to watch out for in this model? Pearl being centered, numerals and logo in right place. Lune fill - hard to tell from QC-pics due to light reflections in the lume frame.

Hi all, Quite a longtime member here but just now leaving lurking-mode. Great forum w. vast amounts of information. However, reading the Omega area always make me want to buy new watches. I used to collect old Constellations from 50's - 60's but has now sold off most of them only keeping a few gems. Stopped wearing these old watches (much due to the fact that old automatics, specially bumpers, really do not react good to things like mountain-biking). Have mix of gens and reps today including a rep of Seamaster 300 Pro (black w big hour markers - best design ever) that I bought from King almost 10 years ago I think. That cheap asia 21 J still running like a charm (kinda bad power reservw tough). However, I just caved in and bought a 42 mm OMPO - old style, no ceramic, the "ult" version w. swiss Eta 2824-2 from Andrew. Got the QC pics today and it looks as expected - really good. Better than stock pics really. But I do have a question here about the numbers showing on the "machine". I found these numbers explained in a post by md2020, thanks btw. BUt it says a healthy movement shoulf fall inthe interval of 285 - 310 deg (amp). The readings om my watch was: Rate: +8 sec Amp: 280 deg B.E: 0,0ms Is this a keeper even if it falls short of 285 - 310? Is this of big significance since it's due to change quite soon after winding? Thanks again for a great forum. Oh, BTW. I spend quite a lot of time in Vietnam (Hanoi) due to work. Quite a few stores there w. a huge number of different reps. Between 40 - 80 USD without any bargaining. Probably half if u bother to bargain. Mainly really cheap knockoffs and a LOT of fantasy models. Mainly asian 21 J or quartz and the quality isn't what u call stellar. One day I will do a survey... /richard

A hairdryer. Of course, why didn't I think of that. That's the same method i use to soften the glue when I replace blades on my hockey sticks.

Jusr received my first rep (the first in a series of many). I have a few constellations and Seamasters fromI collect old omegas from the 50's and 60's but nothing more modern so I'm not really qualified to review it in terms of accuracy compared to the gen. But I really love this model and I'm actually planning on buying a gen as well. I think the He valve is wrong and I'd say that the date window is a bit too small as is the typeface on the date wheel. And of course the bezel insert is misaligned. I read about how to fix this by removing the bezel using your nails and tried this with no success. However I always keep my small screwdrivers sharp using a dremel. By putting this in the small gap between crystal and bezel I managed to gently pry the bezel insert loose. Couldn't be easier. But be careful as not to bend on the insert. The original glue was still kinda sticky so i just put the insert back in correct (I think) alignment. Will probably secure it with a drop of glue later. The result: Sorry about the lousy pics. Hope this wasn't too ancient news and thanks for a great forum. /BedBug

The lack of engravings on case back is really no problem. You can find the full range from no logo on caseback to etched to engraved. It looks like a fully legit seamaster automatic. I'd say mid-fifties. The case is the right one as is the crown (suppose there is an omega logo on it). Hour, and minute hands are original as is the seconds hand (exactly the same as on two of my constellations from -53. Nice dial w small arrowheads and numerals. As someone earlier pointed out, open the case and post the model number from inside of caseback as well as serial number and caliber on movement.

So, the mystery seamaster aqua terra sans date. According to the information I´ve been able to find so far, Omega have a extremely long product cycle. The pics on the web date from 2003 and speaks of a new model. Well, seems it´s still new and not out in stores. I was offered to buy one (2190 euro) and delivery time was one week. So it seems the model is legit. I also got a ref. no. - 28045237. I´ve sent mail to Omega in Switzerland with the ref. no. asking for specs.

Been there, done that. I just spoke to them and sent them the link.

I was actually reading that thread when you answered. Seems a bit of a mystery to me. I´ve now found three references to it on the web. I´ll contact Omega about it. They have always been very helpful with my vintage connies. Can it be a model that was announced but never released?

I have really tried to dig up info regarding this watch but seem to come up w. nothing. Maybe because the model is a few years old (2003). All i find is a frontal picture of one with black dial. The model I´m looking for is the one looking like the new railmaster. With no metal hourmarkers on the dial. Did this come in both black and white dials? Anyone got info or pics? http://www.timezone.com/library/news/news631843122660937500 And... of course - anybody seen any good rep of this? Thanks

Yes, it´s absolutely gorgeous. But WHO is built to wear that watch? Popeye? I could wear it in a band round my neck maybe?

After he sold you the bezel he´ll sell you the pearl. And after 750 for the bezel, what´s another 250 to make it complete?

Man! Been watching repl on the net for a full day. Many of them are amazingly good. However the glass-back case (skeleton??) seems to be quite a blow to the replica market. This is made worse since a railmaster was what I was looking for. I found two versions of the railmaster (or three, will be returning to that later on). One with a better looking movement but this has "constellation" engraved on the back instead of "seamaster". And this I find rather strange. That you can find theese dead give away mistakes on otherwise really good replicas. Other give-aways are omega logos of the wrong size and even slightly wrong shape. Seems to me that when going through the trouble of manufacturing reps you might at least get things like logos and engravings right. I mean, afterall you just have to look at the pictures of the original. It reminds me of a fale vintage constellation I spotted in an auction. Somebody had, quite painstakingly i presume, fake a constellation dial. It was quite perfect exept it was fitted on a movement with a small, non center sweep, second hand. Something never found in the constellation line (not pre 1960 in any case). All that work and didn´t check the basics. The third railaster? Well, what is this? A "frankenwatch"? A railmaster with "seamaster" on the dial. To bo honest I think Omega should manufacture this model. This lacks the glass bottom which I personally don´t like. Or is this a model I´ve missed? Don´t think so. http://www.watchsilix.com/product.asp?id=787 Once again, great forum.

Hi. I´m a swede currently residing in Brussels, Belgium. I´ve been an Omega addict for some ten years now and have up until now been somewhat of a purist collecting cal. 354 Constellations only. I´m really impressed by your forum and the amount of knowledge here. I will look and read and try not to ask stupid questions. And hopefully end up with a good Railmaster replica. And probably a Seamaster co-axial. I fell I have really nothing to contribute but, hey, need advice on cal 354 Constellations? I´ll try to help.