Tim

Ah, so it is. Good. Hard to read a photo on a phone sometimes.

I can help you early next year. I'm between things right now and won't be able to set up my bench again till after the New Year.

The ETA 2824 is/was available from 18,000-36,000 there are 4 different models, standard, eleborated, top & chronometer.

The latter 2 have different escapements, shock protection and barrel springs.

 

This in itself would throw up all sorts of mix & match issues.

 

I don't think most people understand the complexities & tolerances that are present within watch movements and this is where bodging hacks like this are always going to throw up issues of reliability of accuracy.

Well the Eterna original movement pattern has been replicated with all sorts of variation. But I took the OP at his word and assumed a 2824 with 28.8K bph. The major functional variations always had (that I know of at least) different movement numbers.

Just seems like a goofy goal in one's quest! Everyone usually turns their noses up at the Chinese 21's in favor of something with 28 in the magic numbers. Here is a mod that will give you what everyone pans! If bph is an important aspect for someone seeking an accurate rep, why didn't they start with a Chinese 21? With a little extra work they can be just as durable as a 2824 and much more accurate than this mod.

Thanks Tim.

About the oilers, which is the better shape in order to avoid the "oil on the side" problem?

Like I said a small flat spot at the tip does wonders. This is something every watchmaker does when getting new dip oilers. Like a grain of wheat with the pointy end removed. File it a little, dip it, and then watch how the oil drop forms. If you feel like fiddling around a bit before committing your actual oilers, get a paper clip and some needle files and experiment. Playing around like this is helpful because you also develop a feel for how the oil acts and flows.

Kitchen plastic pan cleaner is what I've used upto now.

 

I just have one question fraggle42. Has Simon ever named his cat?

You're quite right! Unless you're well practiced, slow and steady is the best approach for touching up your case metal.

I can help you with your service early next year. I'm between things right now and need to set up my bench again.

Scotchbrite pad is a better solution than steel wool or sandpaper. Or use a fiberglass pen. A fiberglass pen is more accurate and you can easily work on a single link with one. Steel wool is usually carbon steel and you generally don't wnat to embed carbon steel particles into stainless steel. Sand paper will leave grit that can hasten the demise of your bracelet.

Adjusting bph with a new balance wheel. Hummmm. I haven't been keeping up with mods that much but has this mod been checked out? You generally have to vibrate a hairspring to the correct bph matched to the balance wheel. Without vibrating the hairspring +/- "something wild" is about as good as you are going to get. It sounds like a hack job mod that I can't quite figure out why you'd want to do it???

You can attempt to approximate vibrating a hairspring with a timing machine, but results from a timing machine are averaged and not nearly sensitive enough to give an accurate solution. The only proper way to do it is with a Luthy tool and it is considered an archaic art that is rarely done today.

The purple one adjusts your beat and you can only get the right setting for it with a timing machine.

I can help you early next year if you can wait that long. I'm in the middle of things right now and need to get my shop setup again.

What kind of metal flaws are you trying to remove? A high power machine is generally a bad idea unless you are very skilled. You can remove all of the routine metal flaws with a rotary tool and sanding disks at VERY low speed. The trick is to remove as little metal as necessary as slowly as possible.

Once you get the autowinder off and are at the mainplate, it's best to start at the balance wheel and remove the entire escapement first before getting to the train of wheels. Don't start with the barrel bridge. That way if you forget to relieve the mainspring all you get is a run away gear train but no damage done. For your flat click spring and keyless works spring, the plastic bag trick works but is cumbersome. Learn to pin the apex of the flat springs with a piece of peg wood and that is usually all you need do either putting it in or taking it out. Modify your oilers by filing the very tip just a touch flat so that the oil drop forms on the tip as opposed to the side. Too much oil will spread and foul your pinions, creeping down the staff eventually causing a variety of problems. And of course never oil the pallet, just the front of the pallet jewels. But that will take practice.

There are a couple caveats in cleaning your hairspring. You can use a water based process but you need to never let it air dry. Your pivots will rust. If you use something solvent based you must ensure that it is shellac friendly when dealing with a balance complete. Your roller jewel is attached with shellac. Naphta is good as is xylene. Alcohol is a definite no-no. I think acetone will dissolve the shellac as well.

One Dip or carbon tetrachloride is best. Blot the extra solution off with watch paper or cigarette paper (non-glued) or with watchmaker sawdust which is very cheap.

Unless the stem and crown are of 2 different materials, ie brass and steel, you will end up doing more harm than good

with this method.

The acid in the vinegar is simply not strong enough by far to eat and bite into steel, let alone differentiate between the crown and the stem.

The crown needs to be colleted in a lathe and the broken stem drilled , a size smaller than the actual thread size.

The broken stem will then be able to be un-screwed leaving the original threads intact.

Tungsten carbide micro drills are used at 500 rpm with plenty of cutting oil.

I have drilled down to 0.3 mm dia. into hardened steel with no problems. ( no annealing or re-hardening required ).

White vinigar actually works well. And you don't need to wait a week. Overnight will usually do the trick. Though check it after a few hours and it may be loose enough that you can back the stub out with tweezers. Do this frequently with bridges. If your crown is also steel you got problems though. They do make watchmaker screwdrivers that can be used to back out a broken screw. A frequent repair on vintage watches are dial feet screws which always seem to get stripped by sloppy servicing.

You were told right. Look at your pivots on the balance wheel. Usually the one under the balance bridge gets crunched. Quick test is to check end shake on the balance wheel. It should be barely perceptible on the order of microns of movement. If your balance wheel is sloppy loose you have a broken pivot and need a new staff. Not an easy job to replace even with the proper tools.

And by the way Admin: Balance C o c k is not a profane word!!! <g>

Did you find someone to service your watch?

First thing to look at is your hairspring. Did you damage it at all during your disassembly, reassembly? If you are inexperienced this is probably the first mistake people make — mangling the hairspring. Second is your hairspring sitting in the Etachron regulator correctly? Third, did you damage the pinion on your balance wheel. After that, look at all your end shakes, especially on the balance wheel. Then you have to look at your pallet stones to see if they are hitting the escapement wheel correctly. That would be a good start.

Yeah, I know how to use Google and I see the sites as well. I was kind of looking for a REPUTABLE seller.

Bit harsh?

Perhaps. At least he asked before returning it as defective...

I think I'll stick with my red sticky ball!!

At least you will not gouge the hell out of your case!

Turn it on? I suspect that you should not be buying watches, much less Reps....

I know it is an oldie (and disliked by many!), but does anyone know if there are Ikepod Reps available anywhere?

I have two daytona paperweights. I may try my hand at this fix.

I emailed Jos Nana about the new daytonas he has on his website and he claims to have "no problems from this maker". I may take another chance on one of these.

I just saw that Jos had a Corum Admiral's Cup with running seconds at 3 o'clock in his new watch section. Wonder what that looks like inside!

/Tim

Apart from those pesky chrono buttons ...

Whaaat! What's the problem!! Just make the chrono pushers a bit longer and you can mount a spring bar between them.

Good point.

-T

A shame. Seems a simple matter to reorient the movement to bring the second hand down to 6 o'clock. Much like they do with the ETA 6497 with seconds at 9 or 6 o'clock. If all the other parts are the same, I don't see why moving things around the bridges 90 degrees would be a big deal.

They could always go back to the good old days and put the winding stem at 12 o'clock!

-T

I haven't been keeping up with this subject, but are the new 28800 beat Asian 7750 any better with the seconds at 6 issue? I knew the older Asian 7750 were crap but I wanted t to know if it was safe yet to buy a Daytona rep.

-T