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lillo

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Posts posted by lillo

  1. I love the last GMT Noob BLRO (link)

    But the movement is very bad. I have researched if there is a IHS but I have seen nothing in the sites of forum sellers. Have you notice of this , or don't exist ?

    Are we really sure that the CHS is really so fragile ? Is there anyone who has a rep whit CHS for months and years and has had no problems ?

    I am very confused…...

     

     

    https://www.intime05.co/rollie/6350-gmt-master-ii-126710-blro-real-ceramic-904l-ss-noob-1-1-best-edition-on-bracelet-a3285-correct-hand-stack.html

     

     

  2. 26 minutes ago, lillo said:

    You'd do better trying to find a 126710 with an A2836-2 movement and quit worrying about the correct handstack.

    The A3285 is just a modified 2836, but I've never heard anything good about it.

    https://www.intime05.co/rollie/5756-gmt-master-ii-126710-blro-red-blue-bezel-ss-black-dial-on-ss-jubilee-bracelet-a2836.html

     

    Thank you and Cardoza.

    I'm not interested in having the CHS I'm also happy with the IHS A2836-2, as you advise.

    But the most recent Noob GMT red-blue ( that I have linked) , is available only with IHS.

    The A2836-2 version I dont find. Dont exist ? I'm afraid not.

    This watch is much more beautiful and nice than the other versions, as the $ 288 in your link. Ad all others.

    If this  most recent and beautiful Noob  is available in IHS A2836  I would buy the one without problems.

    I am happy to have this Noob in IHS !!!! But I have not see it , only IHS

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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  3. You'd do better trying to find a 126710 with an A2836-2 movement and quit worrying about the correct handstack.

    The A3285 is just a modified 2836, but I've never heard anything good about it.

    https://www.intime05.co/rollie/5756-gmt-master-ii-126710-blro-red-blue-bezel-ss-black-dial-on-ss-jubilee-bracelet-a2836.html

     

    Thank you and Cardoza.

    I'm not interested in having the CHS I'm also happy with the IHS A2836-2, as you advise.

    But the most recent Noob GMT red-blue ( that I have linked) , is available only with IHS.

    The A2836-2 version I dont find. Dont exist ? I'm afraid not.

    This watch is much more beautiful and nice than the other versions, as the $ 288 in your link. Ad all others.

    If this  most recent and beautiful Noob  is available in IHS A2836  I would buy the one without problems.

    I am happy to have this Noob in IHS !!!! But I have not see it , only IHS

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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  4. I really like the new Noob GMT 126710 BLRO $ 668  (link)
    I have read the most mixed opinions on his movement. According to many it is destined to break soon
    But is it possible that this does not happen, perhaps using it in a certain way, or is there nothing to do?
    I'd like to hear the opinion of those who tried it, before spending $ 668. 
    Thanks to those who help me

     

    LINK  https://www.intime05.co/rollie/6350-gmt-master-ii-126710-blro-real-ceramic-904l-ss-noob-1-1-best-edition-on-bracelet-a3285-correct-hand-stack.html

  5. On 10/23/2019 at 10:45 AM, swdivad said:

     

    That dial is for an 116500

     

    Yex exact.   The black dial of watchparts is good for 116520, but the white NO ! These is a dial for ceramic only !

     

    I realized the error only after posting to the photo of the white dial instead of the black one, sorry

  6. 4 hours ago, swdivad said:

     

     

    The Noob dial's defects are very noticeable, IMHO

    ARF has done it pretty well, but I can't get one... it's so fkng frustrating because Noob knows the problems, and they just keep releaseing shinola

    Defects are used to to marked , in  december , a V3b version, a V4 in  april 2020 ,  a V4b   in  july  2020   ecc....ecc...😁

  7. 8 hours ago, swdivad said:

    DAYTONA font is better than noob but text still looks too light
     

    The color and measure of the subdials , in my eyes, appears  correct, it is better than Noob and also than ARF I presume.The crown is good. 

     

    I think that , the noob Daytona whit steel bezel (116520) out of the box   is good, because bezel, case, cristal ecc...  are not bad. The  major flaw is the dial. The noob + this dial  it's almost  a super rep. The small flaws are pratically invisible, if you dont observe it very closely

     

    What do you think about it ? In your opinion, there whould be other necessary changes and modify , beyond the dial ?

     

     

  8. I love Noob Daytona, but the version that I prefer ( steel bezel) has not a good dial. 

    Some people buy an ARF and use the ARF dial in Noob

    I have seen also gen dials, but thei have  high price.

    But  there is also an aftermarket  white dial from watchesparts that has not a bad appareance. For example the crown  is more realistic as Noob.

    To buy this dial costs less than buying an entire ARF Daytona ( $. 300) and it seems to me even sharper. But I' m not expert in Rlx dials, which you think about  ? 

     

    https://watchesparts.com/products/rolex-daytona-white-with-black-track-on-the-subsiaries-subsidiaries

  9. 2 hours ago, pcardoza said:

    Well, there are a couple of great threads on RWI regarding this piece and the movement.    Consensus is the the cosmetics  of this Noob release is as good or better than anything before.    As to the movement, there is a great sticky thread with detailed instructions on how to set the time/date, without damaging the movement.

    I have research it, but have not seen, have you the link ?

  10. 16 hours ago, automatico said:

    The watch in the link looks good but imho you are wasting $$ chasing gold plated/wrapped replicas unless you are very careful when wearing it.

    Most of the time the difference between a $900 'wrapped' replica and a $300 plated tutone replica is $600, not the thickness of the plating/wrapping.  It's usually a scam and the gold finish starts wearing off before long and you end up with an ugly watch that shouts Fake!

    I know there were 'gold wrapped' (aka gold filled) bracelets a few years ago but I have doubts about it now, it may be heavy gold plating.

     

    If I wanted a tutone submariner, I would go for a 1990s model and buy an ST case, gold bezel, gold and steel bracelet, and finish it off with a swiss ETA and good replica dial.  It will cost a lot to begin with but you will not end up with a 'one and a half tone' $900 watch in a few months. 

    Another option is to buy the replica in the link and save up for a steel and gold  bracelet...but there's a catch:

    Later model tutone watches have solid gold center links and later style solid mid link aftmkt bracelets are expensive compared to older models with hollow gold center links.  Besides that, I like the older cases with holes in the lugs and sheet metal clasps...they look more like a rugged watch and less like fancy jewelry.

     

    I have been down this road a few times when gold was $300/$400 troz.  With $1500 troz gold, instead of costing $1000 to $1200 for a finished watch, you are looking at $2500+/-.

    The last 'heavy center link' SS/14k jubilee bracelet I bought was $338.  Price one now...$945 on ST, 14k/SS oyster is $850, 18k submariner bezel is $485.  ST case + SS/14k bracelet + 18k bezel = $1510.  Add $1000 for clasp, movement, dial, crown etc and you are at $2500.  Still not that bad since you will have solid gold parts that will last a long time.  I can not tell much difference between their 14k and 18k bracelets...the 14k is probably alloyed to look like 18k.

    It's something to think about.

     

    Btw, since the ST bracelets are made in Italy, you might ask around and get better prices locally.

     

     

    Very interesting, thanks

    I searched on the internet for aftermarket no logo gold steel bracelets with real gold even at 14 kt ,but you can find it

    a) gen bracelets Rlx, very expensive , enormous prices !

    b) plated bracialets,

     

    It is possible to buy a plated rep for $/400 - 500, but the best plated blue sub , according to what I've read in the forums, is the recent ARF.

    But it doesn't have the endlink plated on the sides.

    The VFR has the endlink plated but a bad gold colour, very Yellow. Ecc....ecc....

    I could replace the bracelet of ARF with a correct band, the best is a 14 kt solid gold , but I don't know where to find it.

    I could put a strap instead of the bracelet, but it becomes another watch.

     

    I live in Italy, but the jewelries of Valenza Po , one of the 2 famous Italian cities for gold processing and gold artisans and factories ( other is Vicenza) have not a similar bracialets, in stores.

    I have an hard head, I really want to have this rep, but it is a problem. I have many doubts………

    
     
  11. I have already posted a post on the Sub 116613 LB problems.

    After long studies I decided that the least bad choice is the BP wrapped $ 938.00.

    However, this watch appeared a long time ago and a new version, as V2, never appeared on the sites. I have read several reviews on the forums, but they are all from a few years ago

     

    My question is: was the watch valid in the color of the blue dial and in the quality of the ceramic insert and gold numbers, or is it necessary to make changes and additions with aftermarket parts?

    From the photos of the site (link) it is not clear if the color is good or not.

     

     

    https://www.intime05.co/rollie/2686-submariner-bp-116613lb-blue-ss-yg-wrapped-swiss-eta-2836.html

     

  12. On 12/30/2016 at 3:44 PM, Legend said:

     

    Guys I was looking through the section and it seems we need to start a Rolex wristies thread!

    Let me kick it off:

    2e792c0d915cae3542667cce9839b888.jpg

    I tread softly along the fine line separating raving insanity and lucid moments of ingenuity. The issue is I've no idea which is which mostly.

     

    Is this an ARF ? Noob v2 ?  gen ?   In photo is very very nice

  13. It is really a very simple project.
    My project plans to make a 116613 two tone blue sub with a leather strap, so it is possible to overcome the gold color in the band. The other small parts in gold I think to keep them or replace them. My problem is the correct blue color of bezel and insert. The photos on the sites are not reliable because the photo distorts the color.
    I have carefully read all the posts on the Sub TT reps but it seems to me that the opinions are not homogeneous.
    The reps that have the best reviews are ARF plated, Noob wrapped and VRF wrapped (I put the links).
    I would like to ask for help to those who own or have seen these watches live, in your opinion which manufacturer has better centered the dial and insert? I put a picture, it is not a ceramic, but it takes a lot to better understand what I would like to do
     
     

    foto.png

     

     

     

     

     

  14. 11 hours ago, alligoat said:

    The vintage power reps aren't that good- you can tell by looking at the pictures- the dials are overcooked, the lume is receding, the dial print isn't very good and some of the bezel inserts are faded to brown which is very very rare. Like auto says, you'd be better off getting a cartel rep and making a few mods and aging it- it would be much more convincing- especially if your wear it for a few years and beat it up that way- naturally.

    Could these vintagepower watches be used as basic watch for modding , whit Viet or Thai dials, inserts ecc.….?

    The vintagepower cases, crown ecc... seem to me better than those on the bad cartel vintages. What do you think about it ?

  15. Thanks

    I have some doubt about the writing on the dial. In the pohotos of gen vintage the writing in the dial as Rolex Oyster ecc...ecc... are compact, not ruined consumed

     

    In these Vintagepower these writings seem muddled, written by a hand that trembles Will it be a photo effect?

    And then I've never seen a 6200 or 6538 gen whit gold ring, but does it exist?

  16. I have an ARF Daytona and it is very beautiful The only problem is that it is very noisy I don't have a watchmaker in my town who can lubricate and fatten me

     

    I searched for a tutorial that explains how to do it, to do it myself

    Unfortunately I didn't find it Do you know a tutorial that explains it?

    Or do you know how to do it and can you tell me? A watch lubricant is easily found, but I don't know exactly where to put it

    
     

     

    
     

     

     

    
     

     

     

     

     

     

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