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Posts
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Posts posted by lloyd
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Get a pantograph engraver. That is what I use.
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The case tube hole is too large to use a gen spec tube among other things.
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You can actually get that case looking good. You can buy 1000 grit,1500 grit, 3000 grit, and 5000 grit sand paper at the Auto stores. Work your way through the grits with the CG removed then polish it with a Dremel felt wheel and polishing compound.
It is actually 400 grit I use on the CG. I miss typed in the prior post. With it removed make long strokes going one way.
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I use 600 grit sand paper going one way in a long stroke from one end to the other.
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I bought one and it was unusable.
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With the original T39-like Cartel crystal the rehaut doesn't appear as wide. However, the curvature of the crystal does distort the dial. I do also prefer the Clark T19 profile, so I might try shaving a little off the height to see if that improves the situation.
If you shorten the rehaut, it will be wider.
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I hear that Rolex sells the best sub.
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It was 35 pounds so 50 plus dollars. Still if he were really in a bind, I would give him the money. However, common decency says he owes me an explanation about what is going on.
I PMed a moderator 2 days ago just to see what is going on, but I have not heard back from him. The guy I bought the movement from is a diamond member here.
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That CG looks like the Noob one. The inside corners are very square and sharp. The one big difference between the Noob and H maker is the nut on the case tube. The Nood is a separate adjustable nut like the gen. The noob has the nut and tube machined in one piece.
I bought a Noob 026 3 weeks ago. It has a lighter colored coating. The lume is white when it is not glowing, but it glows all the time. It beats my gen Omegas. The only time it is white is early in the morning. The rest of the time, it is glowing slightly green.
Who are you getting it from?
It is now my favorite watch.
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Yep, I paid a member here 35 pounds for a movement by paypal on August the 17th. I have not gotten the movement yet, and he will no answer my emails any more. I never got a tracking number. It does suck when people let you down. As you said it is not the money as much as the broken trust.
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Yep, this hobby is a waiting game at times. You have to be patient.
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Come on, we are dying here. Where can we get a case like that?
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I have a watch with a DLC coating. It is very hard and scratch resistant. The problem I have is that I work in clinics with the metal door frames and equipment. I will be walking along and hit my watch against something metal. Some times it makes a very tiny dent which pops off the DLC in a pin point spot. If you have a tool type watch. The scratches add character. On a dress watch, they don't look so good.
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Will it hurt you financially? If not, get it if you want it.
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You can not accept any more messages.
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I am going to order a movement next week. I could probably help you.
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For some reason, all of the silver asian 2836-2 or 2824-2 with the decorated plates, have been horrible movements. If they do manage to run for more than a day, they loose or gain anywhere from 30 mins to 7-8 hours. Still haven't figured out what the problems are. I've had some smiths a lot better than me look at a couple, they can't figure it out either. I think I may be jacking the thread. No, just go with the gold Asian
my gold 2836 clones work great
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I know you can save money with Asian movements, but personally I'd rather have Swiss.
Then if it ever needs servicing down the road, parts are much easier to get and work on.
More Swiss ETA experienced modders than Asian movement guys.
Just my .02 cents!
Dave...
I have 5 or 6 asian 2836 clones and so far gen parts go right in.
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. Just saying, "I had no idea that they were substituting these movements for the higher grade movements", is no excuse. That's like me buying a new car from a dealer and while driving it home, the transmission seizes up. turns out the factory forgot to put transmission fluid in the transmission. That's why dealers do a pre delivery service and check, to prevent those types of problems. the watch dealers should do the same thing as well.
Actually people are getting Tacomas from the factory low on trans fluid. Mine was a quart low and the dealer did not even check. There are big threads about this on the Tacoma forums.
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Very funny that you bring this up! just had an incident at work wearing a vintage Hamilton, set of some radiation monitors and when I checked the watch with a portable frisker it was reading over 10,000 cpm and just below 80nCi.
I have never alarmed a monitor wearing a rep though, I would be surprised if they are being produced with recycled radioactive steel, where exactly would one come across this? and wouldn't it be easier to just get regular non radioactive steel that wasn't recycled from a nuclear plant (again, where would one even get this?)
Stainless steel from a nuclear reactor would be very high grade.
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All I can say about Rolex is lugholes forever. I only own models with lugholes.
I like tool watches.
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It is possible the movement was over oiled and a drop of oil got on the spring
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I would be in for at least 2
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This thread is back and it looks it'll go on and on for sometime. The topic is hot because it addreses a serious issue: genuine interest in watches, regardless their origin versus watches as proof economic success. Rep and gen collectors is a small community, comparaed to the millions and millions who buy gens and reps for social recognition. Our adventage over the other guys is that we have watches because we love them, whereas most of the other people do it to play the "you are what you own" game, which moves the world today.
Incidentally, my next car is going to be a MINI Cooper. Whch I'll buy for the fun of having it nd driving it, and obviously not for it's socio economic signigicance.
Cheers!!!
One of the other docs I work with collects watches and he knows nothing about them. He has Rolex, Daniels and AP that I know of. When he wears a watch, he does not even know what model it is.
Yuki 3135 balance wheel is stopping when face(dial) is down
in Questions & Answers
Posted
I would look at the balance jewel too. I had one with the identical problem from the retainer spring for the cap jewel being too loose. That allowed the shoulders of the balance shaft to hit the hole.