Mendota Explorer

In 2002 I was looking at buying myself a new Rolex for my 30th birthday. The Explorer 1 was about $2,700 and the 16610 sub was around $3,300. I talked myself out of the sub because it was "too big" and I didn't buy the Explorer because the night before I was going to go buy it I read a scathing review on Timezone. A respected watch expert reviewed the watch and movement and said at most it was worth $500. I passed and went on with my life. Turned out that the watch expert had been paid by another company to bash the Rolex and he wrote a false review. He apologized and was banned from Timezone. All of these years later and I still want both watches, but not at today's inflated prices. Something has to give. [emoji16] Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Wow. Interesting to see that difference between the crown guards up close like that. That's actually kind of shocking. I assume her 1680 case would have the same difference with dimensions then. How will you get the shape more accurate to the original? Do the Phong and MQ cases also come with dimensions that off, or is it because Ruby's isn't already reworked the way Phong and MQ do? My understanding from reading on all of the boards is that these all come from the same original supplier, but MQ and Phong cherry pick the ones they want first and then rework them. Ruby's aren't reworked and you just get it as it came, which is why there is a price difference.

I looked it up and I believe it is 5.75mm tall and 28.5mm in diameter. Those are the dimensions for the 1560 but I think the 1570 is the same. I don't own one yet, so I am just tire kicking. 😁

Would those Explorer cases accept a Rolex 1570 movement and gen Rolex dial? Just curious, as I try to figure out if it is possible to do some of the "mostly" all gen parts builds on my wish list.

Mine is the old Puretime 1680 case and it has a funky plastic retainer ring. Actually, way back when MD2020 (remember him?) worked on my watch, he may have opted not to put the plastic retainer back on. I'll have to check. Does anyone know if these metal tension washers would even work with the Puretime case? Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Where did you source a tension washer? I have a red 1680 that never came with one, and my bezel has the same play as yours did.

Thanks for the insights. That all makes perfect sense to me, and is why I am definitely going down that genuine 15xx and 3135 path. It's also why I am going to build a 5510 versus a 6538, so I can avoid the 1030 movement. I might ruffle some feathers if I end up doing what I am considering, but I am thinking of using either a 1560 or 1570. I know the vibration rates are different for both of those versus the 1530 that was used in the 5510, but those movements are much more readily available. I only found one 1530 during my last casual search, while I found several 1560 and 1570 movements, all fully serviced. I found a serviced 3035 the other day, and since it was $800 cheaper in price, it got me thinking about a ceramic no date build. Then I saw a few gen no date ceramics for sale on Chrono 24 for $6Kish. It made me realize that the only way to do a gen parts ceramic build and actually make it cost effective (when compared to the gen watch) would be to go with a 3135 movement and build a 116610.

What would you guys say the total cost would be to get the most reliable option, replace all of the necessary parts with gen parts, and service it? Let's say a gen 3135 is around $2,800. I am not saying that's a fair price, just what I have noticed the other day for a freshly serviced 3135 from a dealer. Would the clone cost maybe $1,000 after all of that work and parts are replaced? Maybe more or less? I am just trying to get a handle on what is a better option for a full on franken build when you are using as many gen parts as humanly possible.

Looks like a really nice pointed crown guard case. Is that literally fresh out of the box or did you have him do anything to it first? Just curious - did you contact Ruby also, or did you just go straight to MQ? Just curious to see how hers compares. Nice looking insert, too.

I agree. What a great story about a gorgeous piece. After very careful consideration, I feel that I personally would benefit from using genuine movements in my treasured, gen parts franken builds. There are only 2-3 pieces on this list for me, and I would be short changing myself and defeating the purpose if I did not use as many gen parts as physically possible. The movement is part of that. For other pieces, which are more for fun, then I am absolutely willing to use ETA movements in those. They serve a different purpose.

Just to confirm - you saved the ARF hands and are using them with your gen dial. I think I would go gen hands just to keep everything consistent. Are you using the ARF bracelet, too? Sounds like Angus from Puretime will sell the ARF case set for less than $200. You can buy the bracelet separately, too, otherwise I think a gen Rubber B would be pretty cool with this, and just pick up a clasp. In fact, I have a spare GMTIIc clasp and bracelet still wrapped in plastic, unworn from a TD warranty replacement. I might just use that clasp for it since I like the EZ Link adjustment better than the Glidelock. That's if I go ahead and take on this project! 😎

Nobody would ever, EVER in a million years notice any difference on the wrist or in the hand. Even blown up to 500x in macro it's virtually identical! Nice dial!

THANK YOU!! That's awesome. I'm getting closer to starting my grail 5510 project and I'm going to reach out to him about it. I'm also thinking about working with him for one of his 6542 builds and helping me upgrade and improve my red 1680. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Is Yodog CONUS based? If you send him some or all of the parts will he work with them or does he source everything himself? Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Very nice! What are the specs of this build?

I'll add to that cheap wine and cheap bourbon! 🤣

OK, so if I am reading correctly, here's the recipe for success: 1) Buy the 904L ARF from Puretime with the V2 SH3135 movement. Remove the movement and use in another project. 2) Find a gen 3135 - you get the added bonus of the gen datewheel, so 2 mods in one. 3) Gen dial and if you really want to go nuts, gen hands but these are not needed. 4) Gen crown & tube. 5) Prof black hole crystal. Is this the 2xAR version or just the Black Hole crystal? 6) Gen seals. 7) Lastly, send the insert to one of the modders for gen platinum puff coating!😎 Throw it on a gen Rubber B and you have an absolutely killer genken, or send the bracelet to one of the modders in the EU who does gen process bracelet refinishing.

Thank you so much for your insights! That really fits in with what I have been thinking over the last year and it seals the deal for me. This has been such a great thread. I can't believe the timing of it, too. I took a year off from the watch world and now that I am back, Automatico brings up the exact issue that has been nagging me! I love this place!

That is indeed scary. I remember the story of how you acquired the 6536, as well, so there is a lot of sentimental value to it and it would be a shame if the movement died. Let's pretend you did not own the 6536 and you were starting from scratch. If you could do it all over again and start building the Big Gonzo today - would you use a genuine movement or would you go ETA? Again, knowing what you know now and assuming you didn't already own the Little Gonzo.

@Nanuq I have lusted over the Big Gonzo for years here on the forum, and if it were as much a sin to covet thy neighbor's watch as it is to covet thy neighbor's wife, I would already be in hell! LOL In fact, I'm afraid there's a seat at the table already warmed up and waiting for me, no pun intended.😈 This really is the million dollar question I am looking at, and Automatico's post sums it up perfectly. With complete movement prices so high AND replacement parts so rare to find and expensive when you do find them, do I make the decision to embark on a build with an ETA in mind? One could posit that if you are starting from scratch with an ETA in mind, now you would not be limited to only a 5510. I could also look at a 6538. From what Automatico has shared, now the genuine 15xx movements are in that same category as the 1030 movements were 10 years ago. It's almost foolish/reckless to use them, unless it is going to sit in a safe, because once they break it's game over. That means you would not be able to wear and enjoy the piece on even a weekly basis, and that is what I am truly after - a masterpiece that I can actually enjoy, not just admire on a watch stand when I take it out. I could then base my journey around finding the right dial - whether that is a 5510 or a 6538, and then go from there. Without question, I will be contacting you, Automatico, cc33, Dbane, and others here who are absolute Jedi Masters when it comes to these sophisticated gen projects.

Here is what I am wondering - my dream project is to build a 5510 using as many genuine parts as humanly possible, and with a Ruby or Phong case. The original reason why I was attracted to the 5510 instead of the 6538 was because I thought it would be easier to source a 15xx movement instead of a 1030 movement. I also thought the 15xx movement might be more durable, could hold up longer between servicing, and might offer more replacement service parts than the 1030? Is this flawed logic? I figured over the course of a few years I could source the movement, case, a beautiful dial on gen plate, gen hands and crown, and a nice insert. I would wear it on a nice leather band until I could find a gen bracelet for it, or worst case a really nice aftermarket bracelet with gen clasp. I picture this watch being a lifelong treasured piece that I can pass down to my boys. With prices skyrocketing, would you advise skipping the 15xx movement and instead putting an ETA in it? With what I want to build, and my reasons for doing it, I really feel like I have to go genuine 15xx with this piece or I am shortchanging myself. What are your thoughts?

Looks very nice with the T19. I need to get one of these on my red. I am tired of the top hat. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Looks very nice with the T19. I need to get one of these on my red. I am tired of the top hat. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Do your stock hands match the dial for lume color? That's one thing that would drive me nuts if they were off. I wonder how much a set of gen hands would be? Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk