scotty

Hi Guys,

I always answered to those who asked me if I was going to print the 7753 Pam DWs, that it wasn't possible, as ETA doesn't sell blank wheels.

This is true, but I found out that I can get printed DWs (with wrong font), that could be re printed with the right font.

The only difference is that these already printed DWs, cost double than the blank ones.

But this would mean just 6 euros more expensive than the usual ones.

Plus maybe a couple of euros for the printer, because he has to delete the old print, before to print it again.

This means that the final cost of these ones, will be 52 - 53 euros each.

Please let me know how many of you would be interested.

Thanks,

--

Lello.

Hi - I'd be up for 1-2. Black with white print, for a 196 and 250. When the project goes ahead I'd confirm if 1 or 2.

Dear Mr Bigpops.

Really; thankyou very much for your time and help here. Very much appreciated.

Now I have to try to haggle with Mr Ofrei over a package price, which I believe is going to be less than easy :-)

Both are good movements, I have the one from silix. i have heard that the PO with the 2836 hs a slightly deaper case back than the 2824 one but have yet to compare my self

Ahhhhhhhh....!

I'd started a thread previously as upon having my UPO serviced, it was found to maybe have copy ETA.

The movement inside is 2836-2. Bought from well known collector from Europe, and advertised as 2836-2.I'd had a debate with them over whether it was Swiss ETA or copy. Debate never finalised.....

In my thread, people were telling me it should be ETA 2824.

So this seems to clear things up. I thought there was only 1 'ULITIMATE' PO. Seems not - that there are others.....

Anyone have an opinion over which UPO is the best - those with 2824, or those with 2836-2 ??

What are the differences between 2824 UPO and 2836-2 UPO?

I notice on mine that the crown is a bit wobbly when pulled out. I've had new seals and o-rings fitted, but it still feels weak to me.

If someone can provide the case back number or the 45mm PO, i have the Omega parts list (for modern not vintage watches) here so can look them up.

Hi - thread a little hi-jacked there!

All I've got is the model number 2200.50.00 from the Omega site. Nothing to get the back off with to check any numbers inside for what could be a rep of the gen caseback number.

No other way of getting all the references ??

Hi there all experts.

I'm thinking about trying to transplant some gen parts into my 45.5mm UPO (ETA 2836-2 I think).

I'm trying to identify the correct reference numbers for some gen parts.

The gen model from the Omega site is 2200.50.00

The caliber is 2500 - so I've gotten that far......!

I'm looking for the correct case number references for a crown and tube, and the right reference for a dial and hands set (hour, minute and second). Also if possible a bezel. Maybe the HE valve also, though that's not priority.

Does anyone have experiece if the above can be done successfully?

Does anyone know all the right part references to look for ?

Is anything else needed for such a project?

I'm going to buy four PO Rubber straps from Silix as the shipping is the same for 4 as it is for 1 so you can save a bit of cash.

I've got one fellow buyer already and need two more. Anyone interested in getting on a little cheaper?

Let me know.

Hi - I may be interested also. I'd probably need to corrected spring bars as well though, as it seems they need changed to stop the strap fitting badly.

My uPO has an ETA 2824. That's what they should have.

Bugger.

To clarify:

Should be 2824

Collector site now says 2836-2 with hack mechanism.

Actually seems to have Chinese 2846-6 - from what the watchmaker says.....

Attached not very good photos from before it was sent for return (on its way). And I've no case back opener so can't do any better.

Any new views on this?

My uPO has an ETA 2824. That's what they should have.

Bugger.

To clarify:

Should be 2824

Collector site now says 2836-2 with hack mechanism.

Actually seems to have Chinese 2846-6 - from what the watchmaker says.....

that is one of the ways to tell the difference between the two. the rep straps have a leather keeper while the genuines have a rubber keeper. i hope this helps.

Thanks for:

* a proper name for the ring thingy (didn't know it was called a keeper)

* unsettling me now, since my keeper is leather! (bugger)

SO - anyone have rubber 'keeper's' for a 24mm Pam rubber deployment strap.....?

(I'm Europe based)

Right then....

without wishing to appear dumb (I said wishing....)

I've a 196 on a rep rubber deployment. The strap is OK - it's black, rubber, and deploys.....

BUT I have a small doubt.

The ring thing for the excess strap, located on the short side, is a leather band sewn together. Looks neat, but is certainly not a rubber moulded part.

So - the million bucks question (no ...... there's no prize here)

On a gen 24mm rubber deployment (if there is one), is the ring thingy rubber moulded, or leather ??

That's it. A simple one. Over to you gents - and be gentle with me

Been away a couple of days.......what a debate chain I started......

* watch was advertised, and theortically checked before shipment, as Swiss ETA 2824. Watchmaker is a seasoned commercial professional. I guess no better than our forum professionals. In the end - what constitutes a professional ? Someone who has developed a passion for, and the necessary skills over, this hobby, is in my view a professional also. So long as he behaves professionally, and I believe they do. Just as good as someone who has been formally trained, and dedicated their working time to watches. They both have a passion and skill set applicable.

And you can get good and bad commercial professionals (watchmakers), just like good and bad mechanics.

Anyway...enough.....

* collector is well known. I've been in touch and he's asked I send close-up pics. The item is currently with the watchmaker, and I haven't a case back opener. So will try to convice watchmaker to do a couple of pics, which I'll send to the collector and will try to post here for info. (without wanting to start any fights !!)

The collector will no doubt make his comment when I send the pics. And I've nothing against him right now. We have to remember what game we're in. Any final comments or gripes will be reserved for the end (if there is one).

In any case - the watch works and looks nice, except for the lume - next bit......

Lume issue. The chains above confirm UPO's can be relumed.

However I'm Europe based, and kind of reluctant to send around the world for our renound experts to work on this article. Shame we don't have forum European Ziggy's and the like, to help us poor Europeans out for such jobs.

Ziggy (or other of our professionals) - fancy setting up a JV / sub-contractor over here ???? How could we

convice you ??

So the question is, convincing Mr Watchmaker to take a chance and have a go re-luming my varnished UPO.

And if he doesn't agree, or if it turns out bad - whose got a good 45mm dial and hands set, or even better - gens.....???

CORRECTION.

MOVEMENT WAA ADVERTISED AS SWISS ETA 2836-2 WITH HACK MECHANISM......MOT 2824. SORRY ALL.

Been away a couple of days.......what a debate chain I started......

* watch was advertised, and theortically checked before shipment, as Swiss ETA 2824. Watchmaker is a seasoned commercial professional. I guess no better than our forum professionals. In the end - what constitutes a professional ? Someone who has developed a passion for, and the necessary skills over, this hobby, is in my view a professional also. So long as he behaves professionally, and I believe they do. Just as good as someone who has been formally trained, and dedicated their working time to watches. They both have a passion and skill set applicable.

And you can get good and bad commercial professionals (watchmakers), just like good and bad mechanics.

Anyway...enough.....

* collector is well known. I've been in touch and he's asked I send close-up pics. The item is currently with the watchmaker, and I haven't a case back opener. So will try to convice watchmaker to do a couple of pics, which I'll send to the collector and will try to post here for info. (without wanting to start any fights !!)

The collector will no doubt make his comment when I send the pics. And I've nothing against him right now. We have to remember what game we're in. Any final comments or gripes will be reserved for the end (if there is one).

In any case - the watch works and looks nice, except for the lume - next bit......

Lume issue. The chains above confirm UPO's can be relumed.

However I'm Europe based, and kind of reluctant to send around the world for our renound experts to work on this article. Shame we don't have forum European Ziggy's and the like, to help us poor Europeans out for such jobs.

Ziggy (or other of our professionals) - fancy setting up a JV / sub-contractor over here ???? How could we

convice you ??

So the question is, convincing Mr Watchmaker to take a chance and have a go re-luming my varnished UPO.

And if he doesn't agree, or if it turns out bad - whose got a good 45mm dial and hands set, or even better - gens.....???

A small OT:

Was just browsing ebay for some watches and found this 196:

It's funny to see the 6 o'clock subdial hand not reseting correctly in the genuine watch worth 6000 bucks...

Erm - could be wrong here, but:

* 196 has silver hands. These look black (though could be the angle)

* 196 has TACHYMETRE on the bezel. This has TACHYMETER

Strange ........and I agree on the subdial. Looks suspect...

DISAPPOINTED.

Bought a Swiss UPO from a well respected collector.

Had sent it to a watchmaker for some upgrades:

* SuperLume

* service

* waterproofing

Turns out:

(a) SuperLume will risk damaging dial as all the indicators are heavily lacquered (anyone know a solution to this??)

( the promised, checked, and assured Swiss ETA movement (by my collector), turns out to be a Chinese copy.........

Hi 2 Tom and lazarini.

Can you PM me the contact details of these 2 people in Spain? I'm going to need to send the watch, and as Zigmaster is in Canada, that's 2 high a risk 4 me.

Stephane - I've seen a number of your posts. U know of anyone else in Europe up to doing such work ?

Hi all.

I've recently had some work on a couple of PAM's done by Finepics. The work was excellent. However Finepics looks not to be available for new items for now. I'd prefer to leave him alone and recover, hoping he'll return to this hobby at a later date.

Soooooo - does anyone know of any other European 'Mini Ziggy's' up for the following on an UPO:

* re-lume hands, dial and pearl insert to correct gen colour (whatever that should be - C3?)

* correct the up-turned-legged Omega symbol on the dial

* have a go at assuring the crown thread and tube (my first PO stripped after 2 months and this one is it's replacement)

* have a go at securing the HE 'valve' - it doesn't screw down well..

I'm a non Spaniard based in Spain......

Be gentle in your repleis oh wisened ones....

I'm based in Catalunia

Hi. I'm based in Spain and have bought from both Andrew and Precious Time.

PT has usually given excellent service and communication, but his e.mail box does get full. so I suggest you re-send him e.mails to prompt a reply.

Andrew - I've made 2 purchases. one PAM 127 - which was OK as specified, and still working.

One PAM196 which came with a series of minor problems, the biggest of which was that the subdials had recessions.

HOWEVER Andrew and I came to an agreement and again his service was very good.

Andrew also receives 000's of mails, and he quickly can become confused.

I'd suggest you be precise in your questions to these dealers. Make a simple list and keep the text to a minimum.

If PT confirms he has what you're looking for, he may be a good option being Europe based.

Otherwise, Andrew has provided excellent service so far. Just be sure you are specific in your questions.

Other point - PT handles the items before sending.

Andrew drops ship - he's not based in China. So basically he arranges the sale and despatch, but doesn't see each item before it is sent.

That may make a difference to you.

@ Markus-I agree that it is his right to do what he wishes. But when you fail to reply to emails from members who have sent both money and watches in good faith and then we see a solid history of purchases using the internet I have a problem. I believe he has had a bad run thus far in his personal life. But, to continue to ditch emails from members is wrong. Again, Mark please respond! We just ask to be treated fairly.

I posted in this tread earlier. I really have no intention to rubbish anyone, and also having spoken to Finepics once, found him to be a really nice 'bloke' on the phone.

I have 3 articles with Finepics for minor work since nearly 3 months. I guess a lot less than many others. However the lack of ability to get any communication from him (e.mails not returned, PM box full) is very concerning now.

I guess he's had a bad run and is overwhelmed with pending things to do.

I just hope the situation gets better soon and that I see my items back with the work done.

Has anyone received any work back from Finepics in the last couple of weeks or so ?

Has anyone been able to speak to him personally ?

I'm still newish in all this.

I really sympathise with Mark for all the problems he's had over the last few weeks / months. I've actually spoken to him once and he seemed a great guy - confirmed by many of the comment in this thread.

However I like others have watches with Mark for some work. I'm just wondering if anyone knows if the gent is still actually alive and on the planet since he started this post. I've tried e.mailing and PM'ing, all to no avail. Boxes always full, coupled with his problems on the PC front.

I mean - what if the poor guy has cracked under all the pressure ? He could be huddled in a corner gibbering 'REPS, REPS, REPS...'.

or he could be out selling pieces in a local market......

or he could be .......allright - I'm gibbering mince.....

Anyway - anyone been in contact with Mark in the last 48hours or so ? What's happening, and has he fully recovered from all ails and illnesses ???

Hi. First post here. Done a little reading and following threads, and I very much like the discussions. Large number of characters out there - Hi to Pugwash as a fellow countryman.......

HELP

Bought a 45.5 swiss Ultimate PO from PT, UK, in January (black face/white numbers). Normally I like PAM's, but thought I'd treat myself to a PO.

Think I was lucky as everything looked pretty good. Rivals my real SMP black face for quality etc.

Even the Omega logo is straight - uprisen feet but straight ! I was a happy camper......

Problem - since January the beast has been getting faster and faster. Gains something like 1 minute in a couple of days. If left to it's own it probably would have buggered off by now.....

Also - the crown is no longer screwing in smoothly. When unscrewed, at first sounds like it's trying to wind the mechanism. Makes wee clicking noises, but no resistance pressure. Once out fully and clicked, no problem. Then to screw back - hmmm. A little iffy. That said it screws down tight (no gaps as some have found), but it's becomming more hit and miss each time trying to screw it down again.

I'm no watch expert here. Should I be getting panicky ? Is this a know problem, and what's the solution ?