Jump to content
When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

gregers

Member
  • Posts

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by gregers

  1. For me, it depends on the watch. if it's a chronograph, I would buy the quartz version as I don't trust the a7750 movements, and I would rather havea working watch with incorrect sub-dial spacing (which I wouldn't know about anyway) rather than a watch with a correctly spaced dial, and a timebomb in the case ;) If it was just a regular watch, then I do like mechanical movements (handwound or auto) Their quirks give them character :)

    Having had a run of mechanical chronos fail fairly quickly, I decided to go down the same route as you. Got a quartz Porsche and a B&M and, Sod's Law, both of them died within 6 months. However, the Miyota replacements were easily obtained for around

  2. I had a Porsche and Baume Mercier quartz with this movement (at least it is inscribed as this) after I got tired of malfunctioning mechanicals.

    Neither of them made 6 months. In each case the watch had been off the wrist for a over month and was just dead when I picked it up.

    Replacements are cheap and easy to pick up and are not especially difficult to replace. (Though I did carelessly manage to lose a second hand on the Porsche, and have just inquired in Watch Repairs if anyone knows its size)

  3. I lost a chrono second hand on my Porsche Flat Six while doing a movement swap (I know, I know!) and I'm not sure what size it is.

    It's the quartz version and I don't know if it uses the same size as the 7750 versions. Anybody care to hazard an opinion?

    Incidentally, some of the cartel's quartz movements seem to be a bit iffy. I bought a couple of quartz versions after having a disastrous run with mechanicals, and both of them died before the six month mark.

  4. Might be wrong but I can't remember anyone having problems with UK customs. Unless it's something really blatant that they can pull up, they are not all that interested - much bigger fish to catch than rep tiddlers.

  5. Same here.

    I've had significant problems with every single watch apart from cheapo A21js.

    Not having access to a friendly watchmaker, the issue of QC has become a real problem for me. A21j's are the only mechanical watches that I am happy to buy without considerable forebodings about the potentially expensive outcome.

    As the OP pointed out, cheap replacement movements make A21js a worry free purchase.

  6. You might be living in a fairly humid climate to begin with which doesn't help if you leave the case back off. Bottom line is...there's still moisture in there when you are putting the caseback on I would guess. Try removing the caseback and sticking it in a ziplock bag with some silica gel (the "DO NOT EAT" stuff you get in vitamins, electronics, etc when bought new) for a day or so...then put on the caseback. That might help.

    I thought initially that the problem might be related to some combination of humidity/body heat. However, I think that it is fair to say that here in the UK high humidity is one of our least problematic climatic features.

    Your idea of silica is a sensible one and might work. It is still a puzzle as to how the moisture keeps building up, as I have been making doubly sure that the watch never goes near any water source. The amount of condensation that appears on the crystal is really quite substantial-to the point that it looks like it has been under water.

  7. The first time that I wore my quartz Porsche Flat Six, condensation developed on the crystal. Odd, because it had never been near water. The moisture disappeared fairly quickly but continually reappeared after it had been on my wrist for a while.

    Assuming that somehow there must have been some ingress of moisture, I took the back off, removed the movement and left it exposed for a week. However, on resuming wearing it the same pattern established itself.

    The type of condensation that appears is not the usual 'misting' type, but is more like distinct, micro- droplets of water. These always disappears overnight when taken off the wrist, only to eventually return after various periods of use.

    I have had the back off several times but cannot eliminate the problem, far less come up with some credible rationale for its cause.

    Has anybody else ever experienced anything similar and is there a solution for this annoying problem, which is effectively making the watch unwearable?

  8. Ok it's a 'fashion' brand, but it is one of the best looking pieces around.

    I've seen it advertised in many of the glossy mags and for me it stood out from practically all the other watches. I particularly like the red accents. I imagine that the two-tone bracelet might be a love or hate thing, though, but that could be rectified by the other strap shown above by AMK.

  9. I've just got the white faced quartz version from Josh with rubber strap and also ordered a ss bracelet for it.

    Quality is absolutely superb and it really is a most striking looking watch.

    I deliberately chose the quartz rather than the mechanical version as I am sick to death of the problems I've been having with mechanicals. In fact, I think I will restrict all my purchases to quartz versions from now on. Apart from the convenience, the prices make them real bargain.

    I have also just got the Porsche Flat Six in quartz and that is outstanding.

  10. It's actually not too bad...IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. This is not something for a first timer to do.

    If you have some dessicant aroun (from camera or electronics equipment...if you work in IT...you can steal some bags of it from printers, routers, etc). Open the caseback ideally, and remove the anti-mag cover if there is one. Stick the opened watch and the dessicant inside a zip lock bag or plastic tub and stick it on a desk in the sun to get the evaporation going and the dessicant absorption going. Leave it for a day or two and see what happens.

    If the watch can be revived after this...it could still do with a service...but you might be alright if you don't want to pay for the servicing for awhile.

    Again...salt water dunk means the salt can quickly corrode parts...so a trip to a watchmaker for a breakdown is needed if you want the watch to last. A Ti GST is worth salvaging.

    If you want a new movement...Ajoesmith has both 6-9-12 and 3-6-9 variants I believe for around $150.

    You need to be able to decase the movement, remove and re-install hands, remove and reinstall a datewheel, clean up fingerprints and grease marks, etc...and re-case everything with stem re-install.

    This requires specialized equipment (movement holder, horological quality screwdrivers, hand removal tool, hand press, rodico, caseback opener, etc...and more importantly, the know how to use them).

    What do you estimate to be the most cost effective action - new movt (+possible cost of installation-presumably not too much) or a complete strip down?Would a strip down be pretty well the same as having a complete service ? In which case you kill two birds etc.

  11. The watch is certainly not working in its current state. The waterskiing was on a freshwater lake, so some good news. Thanks for all your help. I think he will probably have to get a new movt (or watch!).

    So what are the chances of getting a new movement for this (or any watch)?

    In theory it sounds a good idea-just drop in a new movt. for any busted watch. However, there are, presumably, a huge number of 7750 variants (size, spacings, seconds@6/9, etc.) and getting hold of the right version is not going to be straightforward. Or am I wrong on this?

  12. I would love an Oris.. but there (from what i read) been a lot of problems with this rep.. some dealers have taken them off their catalogues.. is this somewhat true ??

    Josh has remove the Carlos Coste and the TT3.

    Shame. I saw the TT3 in Goldsmith's and for me it was the outstanding watch in the shop. I guess they must be coming out of one factory and have all got QC problems

  13. When the 7750 came out it was very much a watch of the moment and there was high demand for it. That probably caused the premium for it.

    Just ordered it now from Andrew (he was cheaper) so I will let you know what its like in the next week or so.

    Think I might be the first person on the boards to order one by the looks of it, as the watch was only added to their catalogs in the last week or two and I can't find anyone talking about the 21j version. Unlike me to do this as I normally wait it out for reviews but at $108 I don't think you can go wrong.

    Let us know what it's like when you get it.

    I'm quite interested myself. I'm not worried about the faux chrono. Although I love the look of chronos I don't think I've ever seriously used any of the 5 that I've got.

    Like you, I'm quite attracted to these basic 21j versions. Unlike the 7750's, it's not a disaster if they crap out and you can get cheap replacement movements anyway, should you wish to. It sounds like a potential top buy.

  14. Hi, yes it only a faux chronograph. The 6 sub dial sweeps along with the main second hand. By the looks of it the 12 and 9 subdials don't move. They are labelled month and year (!) instead of minutes and hours like the gen /7750 version. The GMT function works fine though.

    Don't mind this at all though really when its a whopping $250 cheaper and supposedly has a similar case and strap as the 7750!

    Plus my 7750 make me nervous too that the chrono will break and the whole watch will be useless (as has happened before) so this is ideal really!

    Gonna take the leap i think.

    Curious. $250 dollar differential, yet there is no way that this can be accounted for by the movement.

    The case uses the same grade of ss so I don't know why the price difference is so huge.

    Is it possible that collectors simply ramp up the price of 7750s?

    Surely not.

    I'd quite like to know the reason, though.

×
×
  • Create New...
Please Sign In or Sign Up