Legend

Fair choices Jon! I am not a Rolex guy myself but I can understand why many are. The knowledge (and yes watches) available here are astounding, and you will be like a kid in a candy store. Looking at your profile picture, I must be correct at least for the "kid" part.. Be good and feel free to wander around here.. no matter where your predilections may take you, you would almost surely end up on the dark side eventually.

diligence

conscious

Yes bro. Other than the fact that the balance wheel is in the wrong position, jewel colors are too light, finishing is not as good, and other minor details, the rep movement decoration is pretty good. Yes I'm being facetious here. Ignore me kindly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Go away lurker! OK just kidding welcome to the family and hopefully it would be one of the best you have made. Perhaps you can start by telling us your preferred brands, or preferences... Again, a warm welcome!

Thanks brother. I saw goodfella's PM but was too busy on the weekend to reply! Hey J, sorry for the late reply, I was having a rather busy weekend. That rubberclad of yours is an old model from Noob. I would recommend you keep it for parts (not paperweight!) and get the new updated one, if it is available in stock. If the new watch is a JF one, the datewheel on your old watch would be useful, swap it over to the new watch and font ugliness solved. The repair and relume, as well as AR costs would make it a no brainer to utilize it as a spare. Yes Panerai153 was correct, I could help you with some mods if you decide that the watch is a keeper. The hand, tachy shave, cyclop mods would bring your ROO to the next level. Take a look at some pics Panerai153 posted and you will see what I mean. I am doing this as a favor to fellow ROO owners and not offering this service for profit at all. Then, if and when you send the new watch to me, send the old one over as well, the movement could likely be revived and fitted with a new swiss mainspring, and effectively given a new lease of life. I have advised what I think I would do in your position mate, and I hope it makes some sense to you.

It's irrevocably and undisputably gen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My fellow falconer Billy the flyboy The hour hand can be relumed to match the white color of the hour markers. You might wish to write to Vaclume at vaclume@gmail.com Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Looks like our common ground goes beyond our individual choice of weaponry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actually big B, you came to mind when I was reading this thread, in a good way. You embody the spirit of RWG and I'm proud to call you friend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In life and in the forums, it is more important to have a bigger heart and bigger well of kindness, than to have the bigger biceps. On the Internet, it is very easy to be an asshole to anyone, separated by the distance, the relative anonymity, and the safety and comfort of the engagement taking part in a cyber world instead of a physical one. In real life, I'm about 5'11 and a relatively willowy 165lbs. But I would talk to a 5'5 man the same way I would a 6'4 one, both in terms of basic respect and when the need to chastise arises. That's why I said having a bigger heart (and balls actually) is more important in life. To know how to respect and be courteous to someone, based on who YOU are, is infinitely more meaningful than according respect based on who the other party is. The true strength of a man lies not in how wide his shoulders are, or how thick his arms may be, but in the depth of his character, his wisdom, and the goodness of his heart. Physical strength, no matter how impressive, would fade one day, but our integrity and respectability, we get to keep till our dying day. Little barbed exchanges on the Internet are inevitable and often harmless, and could be fun when the engagement is carried out without malice. But to be seriously offensive to someone often reflects on oneself more than anything else. If we learn to ignore or diminish the asinine comments on the forums (there would be many each day we surf), the quality of our cyber life would be a lot better. Leave the fools alone. They often punish themselves in the end. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Between the 2, I would definitely go for the 44 FC.. the v8 is a watch which has the look and capability of a daily beater. But the FC 44 is a watch you would keep glancing at, and sometimes, you may even do so to tell time. Try to get the noob 2824 datewheel, it would fit. If the P80 route is pricey to you, send the damn watch to me I will get the low beat conversion done for you brother.

+1. If money is not a concern, the Powermatic80 is the way to go. Direct drop in and you got a reliable workhorse with the correct beat, and upgraded power reserve and reliability over the A2824, or arguably even the ETA2824. The issue with the ETA2846 conversion, from an owner point of view, is that if not done correctly, the movement can end up running like a breakaway horse, going ridiculously fast. I am not a technical guy, and spoke to my watchsmith about this briefly. He resolved the issue using additional jewels, though I have no idea where or how, and I would not pretend to be an expert and advise OP on this. I only know that improperly converted slow beat movements COULD present this issue (I have experienced it in 2 different converted divers), though the solution for this is also known. I own an ETA low beat diver now, converted using an ETA2824 main plate and ETA284x parts, and it runs beautifully, with about 60hrs power reserve using a new ETA main spring. The movement is 100% swiss, but a lot of labor and yes some dollars went into this project. You are right A: if you know what you are doing, the low beat conversion route could save some money. However, the P80 direct replacement route could be the better one in the long run, in terms of reliability and sustainability. I just do not know enough about movements to comment, and could only speak from the experience of an owner.

My gosh. I have a hard time distinguishing if you guys are being serious or just clowning around. Nobody going to talk about the black hole effect on a watch with a missing pearl I reckon? Or list some mathematical formula to show why the pearl should be replaced ASAP?! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks bro, and that red datewheel looks gorgeous. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Big B, for a moment, I thought you were saying that I have a huge ass...should have read more clearly. The time spent at RWG is well spent, every single second of it. Thank you for having me and I hope to stay around and continue to be a curmudgeonly nuisance to the young and new.

My 4th year in RWG, today! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

magazine

I agree with you partially, that SOME rep movements are noisy as hell. But I have owned gens (ETA movements) that are equally noisy, and reps which are quiet as church mice, especially after a service. Generally, after a service and cleaning, I note that the movements are noise-free, whether shaken, or when wrist is moved with watch on. So I would recommend you try getting watch serviced and note if you can hear the improvement. I always could after my watchsmith is done with mine.

Ah my friends, @Mike on a bike and @panerai153, I did not see this post, and honestly, I do not consider myself an expert. What A has mentioned is the same I feel. @swdivad The V8 is essentially the V7 with open caseback and decorated movement. It is a nice watch but like panerai153 said, I am not in favor of wearing divers with open casebacks. It detracts in my opinion, from the overall sportiness of the watch. Its like a supposedly rugged diver wanting to be a coffee-table discussion watch. I would go for the V7 in this case, but its just a personal preference like I said. The v8 is not better or worse than the v7, but it is a tad more pretentious. A classic flaw on all JF divers is the wrong date font. On their ROO reps, the date font is uglier than a three legged hunchback dwarf. The Miyota movement is a reasonable and functional one, but the rotor could be a tad noisy at times. Also, the Miyota movement, unlike the A2824 one, cannot be converted to a low beat one. Coming to the FC 44 ROO, nobody is going to know or think that its a $30k watch unless they are into watches. What I mean that it has an understated appearance, and exudes a subtly elegant and sporty, and non-obstrusive aura when worn on the wrist. The beauty of the watch lies in the various ways it catches the light, the blend of the dial with the marbled forged carbon case, the little accents of red in the dial from the subdial hands, and the silvery black ceramic bezel. It is a very nice piece, and I would encourage you to get it. If you are already wearing the FC diver, then the FC44 is just a little bunny's hop away. You will grow comfortable with it, $30k or not. The movement, despite its notorious reputation, is not that bad actually. I still do own 1-2 sec@12 movement watches, and after a good service, I have not had a single one fail on me. In worst case, you can always send them to me in Singapore for the necessary upgrades like what my buddy panerai153 did.

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Interesting. Do you want the best or just simply the most expensive? If its the latter, there are several non-TD sites you could buy from.. it would be the same watch as above but definitely going to be more expensive. Is this what you really want?

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