tc670207

Two years ago, TC Sub V6 was born. That specific date is Aug 25, 2014. With the birth of the V6 it caused quite a sensation on the forums. Many members claimed the V6 was almost perfect, gen like, some even said to me the work is done. I cannot deny the fact with the help of my Scottish friend supplying the Kensington High dials, it really took TC Sub a major leap forward. Still from time to time, I receive emails from members asking me what are the differences between TC and those $200-$300 rep Submariners they got. I loathe questions like that. But to answer the question from deep inside me "Is TC Sub perfected yet?" The honest answer is with the V6 the work is 90% done, but we have not climbed the last hard vertical peak. To a novice collector whose goal is to get a Submariner to enjoy the envious glare, he can and will satisfy his need with a TC Sub V6 or the V6 based LV. But for the true seekers, there are just things that still can be improved, regardless doubling or even tripling the amount of time and resources which may need to be invested. The thought about improving and perfecting that last 10% has always been inside my gut. Almost an year ago, I decided to implement the improved parts bit by bit to the TC builds without saying anything. For those members who have been receiving the TC builds in the past eight or so months, you have actually been getting the V7 specs on both the 16610 and the 16610LV, less probably TC 16610 & 16610LV Hands Set V3 and the 2016 KH 16610 and 16610LV dials. All these improvements are subtle and minute. They can be hard to be appreciated or even completely unnoticeable with bare eyes by the common collectors while being night and day to those who are in the knows. Aside from chasing the genuine appearance, I am after the ultimate genuine touch, hand feel, and genuine operational feedback. For these upgrades, we have entered the realm where the law of cost and performance ratio does not quite fit the bill. So if you are one of the members thinking something like "I don't see how these improvements justify the cost" or "It is outrageous how expensive a TC Sub is, I can get the same thing for $300 next door over", please skip this page and head to the next thread. Only true craftsmanship can produce something that is beautiful under every hitting light. (Shot on 8/20/2016) To conquer the last mile, I had to deal with the Factory Direct Bezel Assembly problem first. If you would take a look back at "TC Sub 16610 V6", the Factory Direct Bezel Ring has mimicked the aesthetics of the genuine appearance to a certain degree (but not all there yet) plus the benefit of housing genuine 16610 insert with light sanding or no modding at all. Despite the relative low cost to a moderate satisfactory aesthetic/performance level, the FD bezel ring scored very low on the genuine operational feedback aspect, the gen hand feel, and the gen turning sound. So it bugged me to a point I had to tear off the gen bezel ring of my M-serial Submariner LV and look at the miniature structure inside the bezel ring. This is what gen bezel ring inner gears looks versus the Factory Direct bezel ring inner gears: The Factory Direct bezel ring inner gears were all deformed, or should I put it this way, they were not made right in the first place, to a point there is no possible way the bezel ring could produce the genuine turning feedback. The technology Rolex applied to make the bezel ring inner gears is called "broaching". This manufacturing technique can only be mastered if one has a lot of gun barrels to make. That is to say, if you do not have many civilian gun makers in your country, you are not going to find someone who has got the right equipment and skill set to make a part that is this delicate, accurate and durable to withstand tens of thousands turns. Luckily I am citizen of a country full of talented and skilled gun makers. Gentlemen, Pennsylvania Bezel Ring V1: TC PA bezel assembly V1. Last October, I introduced TC Sub LN & LV Insert V2. This is V1. Its the insert I put on TC Sub builds from TC Sub V6's 2014 debut to the end of 2015. This is TC V2 Insert. There is a tiny chamfer surrounds the pearl holder on the top. Although hard for our brains to differentiate and put it in words, our eyes can perceive that tiny difference at 10 ~ 15 inches the usual distance we check time and behold the watch. We see beauty and our souls tickle. This is where science meets art and one of the factors Rolex dominates the luxury sector of the watch market. This is one of the features us true seekers grid over in the last 10% climb to the perfect classic Submariner. Same story goes here with the hands. This is TC hands set V2. Some sharp eyed TC collectors claimed this is actually an easy tell tale sign. TC Hands Set V3. On EPHJ last year, I met a young talented watchmaker from Southern California. It was easy to pick up American accent in a crowded multi-language environment. The young man and his friend have a talent in perfecting a watch case by buffing and polishing. But they are still struggling in their early business establishment stage. Through buffing and polishing, the young man and his friend could make a slightly imperfect watch case transform into a perfect watch case with symmetrical and balanced outer diameter. I'm glad I used the two young gentlemen's service in finishing 2016 TC Sub Case. The 2016 TC Sub Case has all the correct measurement between the lugs, top to bottom outer diameter and is still made and machined in China. I must give credit to my Chinese friend for that. Only the final brushing, buffing, and polishing was done here in the States. But it is that final process gives 2016 TC Sub Case something different, something nostalgic and yet upscale. Here is the gen M Sub case versus 2016 TC Sub case: The Gen Sub case lug has a define, but narrow chamfer where the brushed surface meets the mirror polished flank. 2016 TC Sub Case lug has a even more define and broader chamfer. I was not too excited about the new finish done by my young friends in the beginning because the chamfered edges only happened after the case is serviced at Rolex service centers. The reason why many members think the chamfer lug is a gen look is because most of the 16610 and 16610LV Submariner nowadays have already been serviced a few times at least. It is supposed to be a watch that is at least 10 years old. After putting that into consideration, I am proud to present to you 2016 TC Sub Case. With a new case distance between the lugs now set at 20.05mm gen size, we need a new bracelet with the correct measurement end link to match its opponent piece. Here it is, TC 93250 V6. This new clasp really brings a smile to my face. Noticed the difference from the V5 clasp? 20.05mm (+/-0.02mm) gen spec lug distance. TC Sub V7 TC Sub LV (with V7 spec) Coming up next: PA Bezel Assembly V2 and TC Sub V7 Extreme Before PA Bezel Assembly, TC Sub owners often report the Chinese Factory Direct bezel turns too loose. In some extreme cases, one can turn the bezel with little or no force by just a thumb. That directly contradicts ISO 6425 standard for Diver's Watch. ISO 6425 directs a diver's watch bezel has to have a built in braking mechanism to prevent sudden bumps or unintentional turning of the bezel during underwater operations for the divers. With PA Bezel Assembly, my gun maker friend matches the bezel ring and the retaining ring with what he called military spec tight tolerance. It is kind of like a brand new gun will have to go through a few rounds of ammo to reach its designed accuracy, braking it in sort of speak. In the gun communities, no one would complain about the brake in process. It is part of the ritual. Although there is no complaints of bezel being too loose ever again in the past several months that I implemented PA Bezel Assembly on to TC Sub builds, I did receive complaints from members about bezel being too tight and stiff to turn. I was being a red neck and ask the members to use their three fingers to press down evenly to release the brake then turn the bezel and to give it a good brake in. Hence most members who complained reported back that after hundreds of turns, the operational feedback, the hand feel becomes gen like. A question rose in my head, "Would Rolex ask its customer to give the bezel a good brake in?". No, Rolex would not. The company sells luxury items with a starting price tag of $8,000 today, it would never be a red neck and ask its customer something like that. Though my relationship with TC Sub owners is not entirely a vendor-customer relationship but more likely enthusiasts sharing the same goal. But still, true seekers seek that ultimate genuine touch, hand feel, and that genuine out of box experience. So my challenge becomes how to overcome that PA bezel assembly's needed brake in? The answer lies in fine tuning the blue print and compare to the original Rolex design. I took the question back to the manufacturer and we went back to the drawing board and re-examine the designs and compare back to the gen bezel assemblies. People would ponder if I did that the first time then why wasn't the V1 the final reproduction of the gen bezel assembly? Now you have to understand one thing just because you have a gen as datum doesn't mean you can easily replicate it 100% with a CNC machine. If they were truly the case, then all the Chinese factories would be making Rolex level hardware but they are not. The process to figure out the exact way to reproduce what Rolex did takes so many trial & error and that still doesn't mean you can get it right. But my demand for the gen hand feel, feedback, sound and operation feedback is adamant. So my PA bezel assembly supplier truly felt my passion. I know there are members who will run their mouth with comments like "if the extreme version's only difference is the bezel assembly that doesn't justify the cost" Let me show you a couple pictures of PA Bezel Assembly V1 versus PA Bezel Assembly V2: There will be members who will like the more classic scallop look of the V1 but I know there will be so many members who will love the deeper more modern scallop look. (starting with V-serials, Rolex begin to make the scallops deeper and deeper). So the idea of forming PA Bezel Assembly V2's look, scallops depth that is, had transformed to another level. By "Extreme", my friend and I mean something like this. From left to right: V2, V1, and Gen. Here is the final result of what the ultra refined inner gears produce that I would like to present especially to the members who owns or had owned a 5 digit gen Sub. I am very happy with the fact that with PA Bezel Assembly V2 on TC Sub V7 Extreme, The way it turns, the hand feel, the operational feedback, and the clicking sound. It is just so gen like. Best of all I will not have to be the hill Billy to ask members to "give the bezel a good brake in". Sound of bezel turning: V7 vs V7 Extreme Thanks for reading. TC 8/29/2016

If each and every Rolex Submariner has a soul, it dwells here. It's soul is ever so pure and bright. It is an enchantment whenever one looks at it. On my quest pursuing the perfect Submariner, I traveled the world seeking the best craftsmen. The best craftsmen to give TC Sub a pretty face. The best craftsmen to give TC Sub precision functioning guts. The best craftsmen to give TC Sub a healthy built body. The best craftsmen to give TC Sub elaborate limbs. TC Sub before TC Insert V2 was a beautiful woman lacking the refined spirit. Although hardly noticeable to untrained eyes, seasoned collectors would still went all the trouble to source and swap a gen insert on it during the V1 phase. But with V2 I'd say the job is done. With TC Insert V2. TC Sub finally got a soul. And it is a fair one. Thanks for reading. TC 10/09/15

I had to take half day off rushing back home to my work bench the other day to build this piece, I called it "TC Elabore 2824 Yacht Master 16622". Before the British dial maker brought KH 16610 Dial to this community, he showed great interest in vintage Rolex Rolesium Yacht-Master 16622. He wanted to know if he could produce the vintage Yacht-Master dials, would I build a couple of YM for him and the family. Of course I would. I thought it was easy. All I need to do was to buy a couple of Factory Direct Yacht-Master from my Chinese friend. I was naive and not knowing how the Chinese repdom had evolved. The so-called "TC Factory Direct Yacht-Master 16622" were all gone. The successors are the ones with the modern 116622 bezel font and the Chinese cloned 2836 movements, which I do not fancy due to its wrong crown position and very not gen like crown shape. My Chinese friend rejected my proposal of making a small batch of the TC Factory Direct YM. Our demand was not even close to the MOQ that he could turn the machines on. It was simply not financially logical to him. Disappointed I was, so was my friend. But we can understand that being a parts manufacturer in Far East, every bit that is being produced has to be sold. It matters to my Chinese friend as well as his workers' very survival. The whole Rolesium Yacht-Master 16622 RE-LIVE project was put on hold indefinitely. "I do not have the buying power to meet your MOQ. If there's any way we can work this out. If there's something you or the syndicate behind you need, that I can provide, you let me know." I told my friend before leaving his factory in the ancient country. Earlier this year I received a call from my Chinese friend. He briefly explained how the Chinese horology industry is this year. Quite a few factories can produce quality watch parts. Quality parts that can meet toe to toe with their Swiss or other European rivals. However, the Chinese brands or the Chinese watch companies are still having big headaches dealing with after sales issues, especially with accuracy and durability issues. They need better watch movements. "Wasn't Shanghai, Seagull, and Hangzhou already good enough?" I asked. "Shanghai and Hangzhou are 2nd tier watch movement makers. They mainly serve smaller brands and watch companies domestically. The movements they made may look close to ETA, but in terms of accuracy and durability, those two makers are still not in the game." "Although the State owned Tianjin Seagull being the top tier watch movement maker in China, quality control (of the final products....the movements) is still a nightmare to watch companies who buy from Seagull." "You may find a certain percentage in each batch of delivery very good and perform on par with their Swiss counterparts. But you'll find another certain percentage perform like rubbish and the rest dead on delivery." "Seagull's employee turnover rate is at history high this year. The talented and well-trained ones didn't get a raise fast enough to balance the economic inflation within China. Once they can no longer bring home enough rice to the table, they just leave and head South for more opportunity." "We need better movements!" My friend emphasized again at the other end of the phone. Let's take a break on the story I'm telling. I want to spend a minute and walk you through the components of "TC Elabore 2824 Yacht-Master 16622". The first and most profound upgrade on TC Elabore 2824 YM is the Kensington High 16622 Dial. According to the maker, KH 16622 Dial plate is made of German silver, which is a white colored copper alloy and a common material being used to manufacture high end movement's main plates by most of Swiss watch giants. The other compounds remain the maker's trade secrets. The dimensions of KH 16622 Dial's hour markers or indices are ever so slightly different to the 16610LV's. The triangle at 12 and the rectangle at 6 and 9 have to just be a tad bit more slender than the ones on the 16610LV dial. This in my opinion makes the craft even harder. Nonetheless, the polishing job on the hour markers were done just tremendously awesome. Bear in mind the polishing and lume job on hour markers are done by hand instead of machine. There is no way the dial maker could mass produce this kind of dials given the fact he is doing this for fun. I have already talked about the print job in "KH 16622 Dial First Look". Handling the KH 16622 Dial while assembling the watch, I couldn't help but suspect the British dial maker, a gen Rolex dial maker gone rogue. After seeing how good the KH Dials are, I couldn't go back and use the 16622 V1 hands anymore. The hands and the dial have to match. They have to match in visual quality, in craftsmanship, and in harmony of reflections of light. The Date Wheel Overlay also, is playing a significant part of visual harmony when reading the watch face. It sits right under the cyclops. So, it has to be centered vertically and horizontally within the date window and cyclops. I pay special attention to the DWO's position during each of my build. However, once a while I still get emails from members with Replica Owner Syndrome complaining about the position. I am not going to gripe over tiny variances that exist even in gen units. TC Elabore 2824 YM comes with "TC 16622 Hands Set V2" and "TC DWO V4". TC Elabore 2824 YM case set, bezel assembly, insert, and 78760 bracelet are from the same Chinese manufacturer that made "TC FD YM". Although being a 2015 remake in very limited volume, it shares the same gene traits to its 2012 batch. The material being used to produce the case, bezel, and bracelet is 316L stainless steel. Unlike its 316F brother, 316L is a tad whiter under light and is a tad harder to machine. Which resembles the material character of gen Rolex 904L stainless steel, a Rolex Proprietary steel alloy. What I like about TC FD YM case: 1. It has the correct vertical crown position which gracefully houses any 2824 movements. 2. Unlike the modern 116622 reps, it has the correct crown guard shape that gorgeously embraces the 7 mm crown. Gen Yacht Master bezel gives the wearer a solid and springy feedback when turning it. One would hear a crisp "ding" on each click. Do not expect the same gen feedback and click sound on the rep despite how indistinguishable it looks to a gen Yacht-Master 16622. I want to point that the bezel turning on this YM is still a bit on the softer side. My hunch to answer the secret is machining tolerance. However, I don't think my Chinese friend could break the machining bottleneck in making the bezel assemblies. No matter how I tweak the click spring, the tolerance is there. So if the bezel turning feedback and the click sound is something you would nick pick about, DO NOT buy it. Another imperfection I mentioned in "TC Factory Direct YM" and I want to point it out again is that there are tiny sand blasted pits on the bezel insert. The 2012 batch had them. The 2015 batch still has them. It's not easy to see them with naked eyes, but with a loupe there are everywhere on the insert. It's one imperfection the Chinese maker couldn't eliminate due to sand blasting process. Despite I categorize the blasted pits on the insert an imperfection, a senior member told me that gen YM has them, especially those made in circa 2000 to 2006. He would not categorize it an imperfection since vintage gens were made with the same manufacturing process, thus shares the same product characteristics. But gen owners would not complain about it to Rolex. A gen owner blogged about it on Timezone thinking it is a plus, a character, and a human touch from Rolex technician. TC Elabore 2824 YM comes with "2015 TC 78760 Bracelet". I did not name it "78760 Bracelet V2" because it is not. It is a 2015 remake of the old TC 78760 Bracelet. Everything is the same except the end link is slightly wider to fit the mid case tightly. The 2015 remake has the end link in 20.15 +/- 0.02 mm both ends. I get great visual pleasure after fitting a 2015 TC 78760 bracelet into a YM mid case. Members who own a modern 6 digit serial Submariner 116610 or a Yacht-Master 116622 may feel disappointed how flimsy a classic 5 digit Submariner 16610's bracelet is. Rolex made the vintage 5 digit Submariner 16610's bracelet with hollow links in order to cut excessive weight. It has practical reasons in that era. If you are one of those who prefers how the modern 6 digit Rolex's solid bracelet feels, 78760 bracelet will not let you down. You will feel the solidness, the proper and yet very well balanced weight of this 1997 debuted solid mid link 78760 bracelet. TC Elabore 2824 Yacht Master 16622 comes with "TC Elabore 2824 Movement". Earlier this year, my Chinese friend wanted to know how well my "TC 2824 movements" perform in terms of accuracy and durability. As I stated above, they needed better movements. So, I shipped a tray to let him to see for himself. Within a month I received another call from him. "If you will help us to reach a merchandising deal with your new movement maker, we will help you make a small batch of the old Yacht Master." "What's the catch?" I was alerted. "My friend, you have to understand with our fast growing middle class, the Chinese wants and needs better quality goods." "Jiangsu province alone has 2 times the population than California. And Jiangsu holds only 5.9% of the Chinese population." "There is no catch. We do not have connections to your movement maker. Being red necks from rural China and not well educated, we need someone's help to reach a deal with your respected movement maker." "Well, that I can be of some help." I said. The very reason I call it "Elabore 2824" because this is the elabore grade of TC 2824 movement. Some members claimed TC 2824 China made movement. I didn't bother to explain because numbers will speak for it self. Some parts within may be imported from other countries, but it is cut, assembled, fine tuned, and QAed on this land, by its people. It's American. What are the difference between Standard grade and Elabore grade or even COSC candidate Top grade? There are several variables and several criteria a movement that have to match the performance before it is branded Standard, Elabore, or the COSC candidate Top grade. In plain English, a Standard grade 2824 movement has to run within +/-12 seconds per day on CH (dial facing up) and 6H (6 o'clock facing up) when fully wound. Max variation on all positions is 30 seconds per day. That means a watch with a Standard grade movement will probably gain or lose maximum 30 seconds each day. An Elabore grade 2824 movement has to run within +/- 7 seconds per day on CH, 6H, and 9H when fully wound. Max variation on all position is 20 seconds per day. A top grade 2824 movement has to run within +/- 4 seconds per day on all 5, CH, 6H, 9H, 3H, and FH positions. Max variation on all position is 15 seconds per day. The timegraph of this very Elabore 2824 movement within this "TC Elabore 2824 YM" you are looking at is performing a COSC candidate Top grade gen ETA 2824-2 movement would perform. A gen Rolex 3135 can easily run worse than this specific TC Elabore 2824. I am not telling or making promises here to members that you will receive COSC performing movement if you are acquiring "TC Elabore 2824 YM". I am stating how good a "TC Elabore 2824 Movement" could be. Before I begin building each unit, the movement is clocked, adjusted (if needed), then clocked again on my machine when finished. It is then going through a 14 days real life timing checks on my rotating machine which simulates everyday wear. I will provide a written report of the final readings in the package. However, if upon receiving the unit your time is off by xx seconds, don't email me and ask me what's wrong. Variations are UNAVOIDABLE. Mechanical watches are not atomic clocks! The accuracy of a movement can be thrown off by a variety of factors. The length of how long a movement stay within standards also varies. If you are anal about DEAD ON accuracy, look for a qualified watchmaker or modder to make the fine tuning. The yacht and the Yacht Master. Gentlemen, that is about the quick look at TC Elabore 2824 Yacht Master 16622. Thanks for reading. TC 08/05/15 After note: Some members may ask why the manufacturer won't use 904L? The Chinese Bao Steel and An Steel both manufacture their own version of 904L steel. It won't be so much trouble and cost to use the Chinese 904L steel. Don't be fooled by the Rolex code designation. According to the maker, the only other stainless steel on this planet that has the same machining and complete product character of Rolex 904L is Allegheny Ludlum's AL-6XN. But for some reasons, they couldn't get their hands on the AL-6XN. Do you know, we used to make the world's best marine time pocket watch? Do you know that Hamilton and Waltham were original American watch companies? I am very happy our Chinese friends are buying the most important part of the watch, the movement, from us. I am even happier they are putting our movements in their local brand watches instead of reps. We may actually reclaim our position in the horological world again like we once did. Some members complained about the lengthy turnaround time. Some who would not wait simply buy parts and bits from me then build the watch themselves or have their local watchmakers assembling for them. If you know a bit or two about watchmaking, I'd be more than happy to pass you the parts and bits. I would actually encourage you to do so. I've found joy and peace of mind assembling TC Subs and now TC YM. I believe you could, too. However, if you're buying parts and bits just to have your local watchmaker to build it for you to save time, I would recommend you to carefully select your watchmaker. After all, to complete a TC Sub or YM takes time, patience, skills, and also some rep know hows. Even the tiniest mistake can render a part/parts useless. If your watchmaker screwed up during a build, and pin it on the part/parts being defect that is not fair to me. Please remember watch making isn't an exact science. One would need an artisan's mind and steady hands to do so. I can provide you with some recommendations of modders/watchmakers which I have worked with in the past may that be in the US, EU, or Asia. Please remember that as I have mentioned times and again, building these units is my hobby and my escape from troubles. It brings me a peace of mind. I do not charge members for my labor. However, my personal estimate of a fair market value of TC Sub or TC YM including labor is well over US$1,000. So, if your modder does a good job, please pay fairly to your watchmaker.

Rolex holding the crown position in the watchmaking industry has its reason - it produces "Les Beaux Arts". The moment I unpacked this dial on my work bench, a French phrase rang in my head - "Les Beaux Arts". I couldn't help but gave the dial a good half an hour gaze, trying to figure out the materials and the work processes to produce this little piece of art. I checked all the watch forums, gen or rep together, and learned that gen Yacht-Master 16622 dial is made of a slice of solid platinum. Like the 50th Anniversary Submariner 16610LV insert, gen 16622 dial reflects different glares or sparks under different angles or colors of light. Also like the Submariner 16610 & 16610LV, gen Yacht-Master 16622 dial print has quite a few versions since its 1997 debut. Some have "slender" Yacht-Master font, while others looked "bold". Members on Rolexforums argued about which variation or series built is worth more to invest in or collect. My British friend and I do not have such a problem. To us, the red, "bold", and raised in high gloss Yacht-Master text appeals the best. Rolex dial makers are the elite few who mastered the skills in dial printing. Gen Rolex dials always bears its trade mark feature - raised printed text. On Yacht-Master 16622, the printed text is somewhere between gloss to matte. One thing worth mentioning is, to pad print on an uneven surface, like the platinum Yacht-Master 16622's dial, and still produce the raised printed text is a lost art. I'm very happy my British friend mastered this lost art. Gentlemen, may I present "Kensington High 16622 Dial". The lume shot. Another shot under work lamp. Thanks for reading. TC 07/10/2015

Many members asked "Is the 2014 TC Submariner 16610LV dial quality on par with your KH16610 dial?" I'll let the close ups do the talking. The updated 16610LV hands set. I'll just call them TC LV Hands Set V2. Lume shot. Thanks for reading. TC 11/06/14

Last week while I was on a routine business trip to Europe, I made a detour to London to visit my dial maker friend in order to picked up this Submariner 16610LV dial. I planed to mount the latest black TC 16610 insert on this Submariner 16610LV but this green 16610LV insert sample just got delivered to my desk yesterday morning. The electro-plating was done in central California. It took the shop owner over half an year to figure out the chemical formula Rolex applied on the 16610LV insert. See how the green shade turned darker when there is no direct light on it? The LV insert reflects a vivid, lively shade of green on direct light. It sparkled golden out of green on another angle of light. Gentlemen, this is genuine US quality of craftsmanship. Thanks for reading. TC 10/29/14

I received a batch of inserts from the electro-plating shop last week. I assembled the pearl holder and the corundum pearl on the insert. Gentlemen, meet TC 16610 Insert. Closer. More closer. Side by side with its predecessor, Caddell Vintage Insert. Installed on a TC Sub V6 with Yacht-Master 16622's red second hand. TC 10/19/14

A couple of shots of the new TC 16610 Insert on a TC Sub V6.

I always recommend members to go get a gen 16610 insert for a reason, it is simply just beautiful! Beautiful how? Our eyes and our brains conceive its beauty but we can not always translate that beauty into plain English. My interpretation of that beauty is a flat and matte insert plus a well polished pearl holder plus a shiny corundum pearl. In my quest for the perfect Submariner 16610, the insert along with its pearl has always been a big challenge. This very specific part is actually an assembly of the aluminum insert, the corundum pearl, and the pearl holder. There is luminescent applied carefully and evenly within the pearl holder so the pearl could "glow in the dark". When I started the insert project in 2012, I thought the pearl holder is made of stainless steel. So I took the liberty being a partner of a local metal part manufacturer and made a batch of the pearl holder. Those stainless steel pearl holders were on every Caddell vintage insert I shipped out along with TC Sub V6 as freebies. This April, a member who bought a TC Sub V6 wrote me saying he has a theory: the gen pearl holder may be made from the same material as the KH 16610 dial indices. So I asked my friend to make me some samples to see if this theory is true. I had to use my microscope since this is late in the night and I couldn't capture anything clearly with my Canon. This is the stainless steel pearl holder on Caddell vintage insert. This is the new pearl holder I just received. How do you like it, gentlemen? TC 10/10/14

A member whom just received his TC Sub V6 emailed me asking why ETA / TC 2824 based TC Sub changes date at noon instead of mid night. I thought it was a joke and felt funny in the beginning. Then I realized it was not a joke at all, I decided to write a proper operation manual for all ETA / TC 2824 based watches. Same operation guidline apply to Sellita SW200 as it shared the same design with ETA / TC 2824 movement and thus inherit the same design flaws. Let's take this TC Sub V6 (with red second from Yacht Master 16622) as demonstration. There are a total of 3 gears on ETA / TC 2824 movement. But when fully assembled, the watch crown has 4 positions for operations. The first position (as pictured below) is with the crown fully screwed in or screwed tight. Only when the crown is fully screwed tight, the owner should then wear the watch. If the crown is screwed open, dust and water could sneak into the watch and damage the movement. The second position is when the crown is unscrewed and popped out. This is actually the fist gear of an ETA or a TC 2824 movement. At this position or gear, the owner could give the movement power by winding the crown in clock wise direction. If you ever want to manual wind the movement to give your ETA / TC 2824 based watch power, be sure to give the crown an additional half turn in counter clock wise direction first after the crown initially popped out to first gear. By doing so would ensure the clutch spring inside the crown to engage to its proper working position. Then you could wind the crown in clock wise direction to give the movement power. If you ever felt the crown slipped when manual winding, be sure to stop, turn the crown in counter clock wise direction for another half turn. Then restart manual winding. Note, if you continued winding the crown when you felt the crown slipping in the beginning, you will most likely destroy the clutch spring inside the crown in no time. This is why whenever a gen Rolex is sent to service, a new crown is replaced. A full wind takes about 24-30 rotations depending on the travel of each turn. Do not go crazy fast just to get the job done. Be sure to wind the movement gently. Although each ETA/TC 2824 movement is equipped with an over-winding protection mechanism, you still do not want to over wind it. If you are a desk top guy and don't generate a lot kinetic energy in your daily routine, laying the watch still in night would most likely let the power reserve run dry. So, wind the crown a few turns in the morning before you wear the watch is totally fine. Although over-winding or winding too many times may cause faster wear on the movement, I'm not asking you to not to wind it. I'm saying wind it whenever after the watch movement runs out of its power reserve and stops. Just be sure the clutch spring inside the crown engages. And be sure to turn the crown in a steady and gentle force. The third position is where you could quick set the date by turning the crown in clock-wise direction. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT, quick set date when the watch is in between 19:30 and 02:00. Why? This affects ETA part #2555. Its purpose is to fast jump and advance the date wheel to the next tooth. It advances the date to the next one during mid night. How does it work? By the time flows, ETA part #2555's blade shape spring gradually engages the date wheel's tooth. When time is reaching mid night, it releases all the power the blade shape spring reserved and drives the date wheel a tooth ahead. In reality, this changing date process happens at some point between 23:45 to 0:30. Depending on how close the builder mount the hands set on when this date change action takes places. If a builder mount on the hands set spot on the action, the movement jumps date at mid night sharp. Back to the topic why I say DO NOT quick set date when the watch is in between 19:30 and 02:00? This happens. The date wheels tooth touches and pushes #2555's blade shape spring. Knowing the date wheel is made of a thin stainless steel sheet and ETA part #2555's blade shape spring is made of bronze, the dates wheel's teeth wear out #2555's blade shape spring every time they run over. So if you quick set the date when in between 19:30 and 02:00, you will eventually damage ETA part #2555. Then this part will lose its capability to advance date. When this happens, there is no other fix but to replace ETA part #2555 by dissecting the watch movement, then build the watch all over again. No one wants that to happen. This is an ETA part #2555 with the blade shape spring being damaged. The fourth position is where you could adjust time. When the crown is in this position, the movement hecks, and the second hand stops. You could set the time by turning the crown in clock wise direction or counter clock wise direction. It won't break the movement. However, NEVER set time backwards across mid night. Why? Same reason #2555's blade shape spring will travel backwards and touches the date wheel's teeth and then be run over by the date wheel's teeth, causing damage to the bronze blade shape spring. Sometimes you could not pull the crown all the way and let the movement to clutch in. Thus the second hand still moves. This happens. DON'T panic. Just push back the crown to position 2 and pull it to position 4 again. So, how exactly is a good way to set time and date? I would: 1. pick up the watch and turn the crown open, give the crown an additional half turn to let the spring inside the crown to clutch in. Then wind the movement in a few gentle and steady turns to kick start it. 2. pull the crown all the way to the 4th position, and advance the hands set to jump over mid night until the hands set indicates 2:00. 3. push back the crown a clutch back to position 3. Quick set the date to the date a day before current date. 4. pull the crown all the way to the 4th position again. Then advance the hands set to jump over mid night and set time to the current time. This way I get my watch in the correct date and in correct time. If the current time is in the afternoon, I will make sure the hands set passes 12:00. So my watch does not change date at noon :-) That's all. The logic is really simple and straight forward. If you always operate your ETA or TC 2824 based watch in correct method, expect your watch to have a way much longer period between each service than your car does. That is, you would only need to send your ETA or TC 2824 based watch to service every 3 to 5 years. Thanks for reading. TC 9/10/14

About this time last year, TC Sub club faced a huge challenge. I was running out of usable TC 16610 and TC 16610LV dials. The dial supplier, due to China's crack down on counterfeits, stopped the rep dial production. The only thing I could do back then was to build each TC 16610 Sub and TC 16610LV Sub from the pile of dials which were taken out from QC issues. I had to first choose a dial with no scratch on the surface and then piece by piece re do the indices to the dial. During that time I wrote a short intro for TC Sub LV Type 3 but skipped the review on the TC Sub V5. I spent most of my time on piecing together the dials. Hence, many new members who did not follow my blog from the beginning were probably confused. If you do not know the story, please read Bumps in the road - 16610 dial maker and the following TC Sub LV Type 3. OK, let begin. A Submariner 16610 watch consists of 7 major parts or part assemblies. They are "watch case set", "bezel insert", "dial", "hands set", "crystal", "bracelet", and a power engine, the "movement"; To make a proper Submariner 16610 rep watch, we have to add on 2 more important parts. They are "date wheel overlay a.k.a DWO" and "movement holder". Watch Case Set TC Sub V6 is based on the tried and true TC Sub Watch Case Set. This is actually the second case set I picked up. It's a keeper because it has all the aesthetically gen features and constructions. That is to say, crown height at gen position, gen construction bezel assembly that houses gen insert without modding or sanding. The mid case could also house any other gen bezel assembly, gen case back, or even gen dial and movement. I wrote a blog entry to review this watch case set shortly after I picked up this hobby. If you're interested, please take a look at TC Sub Housing Gen 3135 & Gen Parts. Bezel Insert Following the Caddell Vintage Insert. It took me over an year to develop this bezel insert. If you're interested, I documented the first received batch of sapphire crystal pearl in TC Gen Spec Bezel Insert & Pearl - Project Update. I then found Rolex's secret in luming the sapphire crystal pearl in TC's Pursuit of the Perfect Sub - Progress Update. Caddell Vintage Insert is not a 1:1 to gen bezel insert. It has a curved or rounded look surface while gen is flat. However, when installed to the TC Sub V6, it provides some what of a vintage effect like those of Vintage Omega Seamaster or Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Therefore, I throw in a Caddell Vintage Insert free of charge for each TC Sub V6 members ordered. Dial If it is not the Kensington High 16610 dial, I would not give this timepiece its designation: TC Submariner Version 6. The dial and indices looked very simple; however, I learned that the KH 16610 dial is in fact extremely complicated and troublesome to manufacture. It really tested the producer's craftsmanship and capabilities. I never knew such complicated production process were originated in the old kingdom then brought to Switzerland by Rolex. Nowadays, this progress of dial making is used only by Rolex. In my opinion, most other Swiss watch power houses cheapped out on the indices if an indices dial is used at all. Ever since the possession of these KH 16610 dial, I became addicted to these dials. I don't think I could ever go back to the old TC 16610 dials anymore. The problem is, supply of KH 16610 dial is limited and slow. The lume job was done magnificently! Hands Set The next thing I would like to talk about is, TC 16610 Hands Set V2. I have been putting the new TC 16610 Hands Set V2 on members' TC Sub V6 for a while. A forum member who's also active on gen watch forums introduced me the V2 hands set maker early this year. He bought a TC Sub V5 with KH 16610 dial and told me everything on the TC Sub is great but something is a bit off. That was the hands. Gen Rolex Submariner's hands set are a tad thicker in comparison to the old TC 16610 hands and provides more of visual 3D effect. V2 hands set is improved upon by this gen feature. The effect of the hands set along with the craftsmanship on the KH 16610's indices reaches true harmony when light shines on the dial creating the ambiance of perfection. That's something only the best craftsman in Europe can produce. That's also something we can only see in genuine Rolex watches. Gentleman, may I present TC 16610 Hands Set V2. Bracelet In my pursuit of the perfect Submariner, a good, tight, and gapless solid end link is as important as a good, clean, shiny dial. The Chinese TC 93250 V3 bracelet maker had done a great job eliminating the ugly gap whenever matching a bracelet to a TC or other rep sub mid case. The Thai TC 93250 V4 bracelet maker pushed that bar higher in making the very best coronet stamp on the clasp. However, members have reported the V4 bracelet art not as good in detail finishings. Besides, the first link of the V4 bracelet does not fold all the way in as gen does. So here it is, the TC 93250 V5 bracelet. I documented the details in TC 93250 V5 Review. Since the time I received KH 16610 dials, I felt the drive to push the bar for quality a step forward. I started to use a caliper to measure mid case lugs distance before matching bracelets. Then I found out TC Sub mid cases lugs distances have variances, and the variances may be dramatically big. So I placed an order of 2 different SEL specs from the bracelet maker this time to solve the problem once for all. The specs are 20.10 (+/- 0.02) mm and 20.15 (+/- 0.02) mm. Here's the detailed explanation: $59 TC 93250 V5. Movement The powertrain inside TC Sub V6 is TC 2824. Right after I picked up this hobby, I knew I had to find an alternative movement source other than ETA. I've tried Sellita and the Chinese but those didn't pan out. I documented the journey in TC 2824 - An ETA 2824 Super Clone Part I. Luckily I met TC 2824 maker at EPHJ, an fair that my line of trade would pay visit every year. I have only two requirements to the movement I should use. One being to perform on par with ETA standard grade ebauche. Two, it has to have H4 cannon pinion. Why it has to have H4 cannon pinion? Because an H2 would make the hands stack sitting too close to the dial when fully assembled. That is UGLY! TC 2824 maker is the only movement maker I reached out who's capable and willing to make me H4 cannon pinion 2824 movement. I dissected a TC 2824 and an ETA 2824, and made a side by side review in TC 2824 - An ETA 2824 Super Clone Part II. Date Wheel Overlay The Date Wheel Overlay is a thin stainless steel overlay with gen or gen like font dates printed on it. It has to be manually attached or glued to the 2824 movement's original date wheel in order to display dates in the right position of a gen Rolex 3135 movement in a rep watch. I hated doing so in the beginning because it is damn difficult to get it right. But there is no other way around if a 2824 movement is to be used in building the rep. I learned to appreciate doing it a little while later because it requires me to fully focus with no fuzz in mind in order to execute the task correctly. I realized in doing so, it really provided me a peace of mind. This is exactly the reason I picked up this hobby after an ugly divorce. I needed peace in mind. DWO in TC Sub V6 is the 4th version I cooked up along the journey. The first and second version were supplied by the TC Sub Watch Case Set maker, in plain English, the original rep 16610 maker. TC DWO V1 and TC DWO V2 does not transcript gen Rolex date font 100%. Thus I took a detour to Japan during a business trip to Asia and made TC DWO V3. Although TC DWO V3 is a direct transcript of gen 3135 date wheel, font and position. It often sits left justified in the dial's date window when fully assembled. To correct this issue, I made another detour to Japan and made TC DWO V4. TC DWO V4 has the correct white base color. The font is genuine Rolex. The date print is raised in high gloss. And the best thing is, it sit spot on the center in the dial's date window. That's about as detailed and thorough review covering all the latest parts or part assemblies of a TC Sub V6 can get for now. Some more V6 shots. Thanks for reading. TC 8/24/14

In the past couple of months, some members received their TC Sub V6 reported the movement does not hold power reserve normally. I replaced the ETA part #1488 & part #1530 for the two members whom reported the issue to me. I thought by replacing the two ETA parts would solve the problem and case closed. However, I received more reports on this issue from members, I know something must be wrong with the batch of movement. In the mean time, I found the same problem happened in gen world. This man bought a brand new Oris, which is equipped with ETA 2824-2, encountered the same very reverse gear problem right after receiving: http://www.amazon.com/review/R35D5BW5I5X864/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R35D5BW5I5X864 I have read from time to time that members suspect that TC 2824 is a Chinese clone. And is far away form ETA quality. But in reality, ETA has it's fair share of issues from time to time too. I got in touch with the TC 2824 movement maker in hopes the maker will help me to rectify the problem. Luckily the maker responded rather proactively. But I had to bring the whole batch that is left and pay the maker a visit. The problem was indeed with ETA part #1488 and #1530. There was a faulty tiny spring inside #1488 and #1530 reverse gears that sneaked through the maker's quality control process and caused the problem. It took the maker almost a month to recycle my batch as well as checking the other aspects of the movement just to make sure there is no other issue. The maker produced a revised and improved batch of #1488 & #1530 to use on my movements. One of the technicians working for the movement maker also taught me a quick method to check for this issue during QC: "Manual wind the movement, and leave it on a flat surface. Flick the stem, if the movement starts to rotate like crazy then the reverse gear is defective and vise versa." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOPcc6XxMz8 So, sorry for the delay to member who ordered TC Subs in the past few months. In the past month, I ran this test on every single TC 2824 used in the built. I also tested the replacement batch. I am happy to report that all TC 2824s are functioning as it is designed to. The immediate actions taken by the TC 2824 maker to rectify this issue gave me strong confidence. They mean business. I am happy to report that we as community has overcame another hump. On a side note, a brand new ETA 2824-2 standard grade is now US$235. Check out this eBay link. What does ETA 2824-2 Standard Grade Spec Grade stands for? Here's a great article on WUS - "ETA grades explained". In plain English, it means when turned to the CH (dial up), and 6H (6 o'clock up) position, the "Rate" has to be within + / - 12 second per day. After each TC Sub is fully assembled, I test it again on the timer to make sure all is within the proper parameter. Many times TC 2824 performs on par or surpass ETA 2824. This is a TC Sub V6 I just completed the built last night. And I hate to brag, this TC 2824 is qualified not just "Standard Grade", but an US$300 "Elabore Grade" movement! All 3 positions, CH, 6H, & 9H in + / - 7 seconds per day. Another important aspect is that besides ETA, TC 2824 maker is the only movement maker that I know which produces the H4 canon stock to the 2824 movement. The H4 canon pinon is paramount to the accuratte representation of a gen unit. Why? Please read: "TC 2824 - An ETA 2824-2 Super Clone". Once again, I still stand behind TC 2824's performance and reliability. I also believe this US based company is here to stay in the watch world. We might even start to hear its name in the near future. Thanks for reading! TC 8/14/2014

Some members have reflected to me about the dial centering issue on the TC Sub V5. I have also explained the whole relationship between the DWO, date window, and the dial alignment in my other article earlier this month. While TC DWO V3 works flawlessly on a 3135 clone due to its exact transfer of date, font, and position of a gen date wheel, it does take a bit more time and skill to have it on the 2824 movement during assembly. In the past, I do a light tab of the dial to center the date window and DWO. However, the slight trade off is the dial will shift a bit to the left by 0.05 (+/- 0.02) mm. Originally I did not think this is even an issue since this variance exists in gen Rolex as well. If it isn't an issue to Rolex, then it is not an issue to me. This is an iPhone shot of a gen Sea-Dweller. Gen minute markers don't necessarily 100% touching the rehaut. RSH, a key contributor to TC DWO V2 has reported in the past that BK's DWO does not have the left justification issue on 2824 movement. This tells me that the golden ratio for dwo on 2824 has been discovered and is achievable. Each modder has their own secret formulas and tricks. I can't just ask for the golden ratio from BK. My parents were farmers in Texas; they've taught me - don't just ask for it but to earn it. Driven by the perfectionist devil in me, I decided to give the DWO adjustment another try this trip to Asia. When I passed by Japan, I told my printer again about this. She told me to leave her with a 2824 movement, a DWO, a KH 16610 dial, and the gen date wheel. She provided the DWO V4 sample when I returned to Japan. I picked up the sample after landing in Narita. TC DWO V3 vs TC DWO V4. TC DWO V4 assembled into TC Sub V6. These are close up macro shots. The dates are perfectly centered in Date window. Although you can still notice minute markers not touching the mid case rehaut, it is an improvement from the V3 DWO. This is the same TC Sub V6 shot with 12 inch (30 cm) of distance. That's about the distance we check time on our wrists. Tell me if you can still notice the gap. TC DWO V4 provides a fine tune to the dial centering issue. I assembled a few V4 DWO on 2824 movement and I'm pleased with the result. However, I do not promise the complete 100% center of the dial in each assembly. The minute markers on the dial may appear to be touching the mid case rehaut with naked eyes but they are not under the loupe or looked very very closely. So for those who are extreme perfectionists, extreme purists, I would recommend to look for a modder to have it adjusted to 100% square on. It can be done, but the labor won't be cheap. Putting on the DWO is a very fun but crafty aspect of rep watch making. If you are new to this hobby I can assure you will screw up a few times before getting it right. Adjusting the DWO V3 takes more time and patience than the V4. But when you can handle the V3, V4 will be a piece of cake for you to install. For members who are new to this hobby, I would suggest to practice with V3 before working on the V4. Thanks for reading. TC 3/12/14

TC 93250 V5 bracelet on Caddell 25-295-C Rouge Gen 93250 (LT3) bracelet on Gen 16610 V-series sans insert. I visited TC 93250 V3 bracelet maker several times from last December until early this month for the development of TC 93250 V5 bracelet and clasp. Members have reported TC 93250 V4 maker were able to make the improvement on the coronet stamp on the clasp but did not possess the quality and skill for the bracelet portion as the TC 93250 V3 maker from China. I was able to persuade the V3 bracelet maker to make proper improvement on the coronet, marrying the merits of V3's SEL and bracelet workmanship with V4's coronet. However, the bracelet maker still wouldn't make the engravings in the SEL trench. Sterile SEL doesn't bother me too much. On a gen it wasn't meant to be seen anyway. The SEL fitment with the Sub mid case, build quality of the bracelet, and cost are my major concerns. Before the review, I want members to acknowledge that TC 93250 V5 (PJ4) has 3 places different from the gen V-series 93250 (LT3) I used as datum. Those differences are not flaws. 1. The stamp on the V5 clasp PJ4 is not as vivid or profound as Gen LT3. When comparing to V4 PJ4 clasp, the stamp is not as vivid or profound either. Apparently the Thai wins at cosmetic and the Chinese wins at overall build quality and cost. The V5 PJ4 clasp stamp still beats V2 DE6 and V3 PJ4 clasp nonetheless. 2. akron on RG reported TC 93250 V4 bracelet first link does not fold all the way like it is supposed to be. Apparently it never is a problem to the Chinese maker. TC 93250 V5 bracelet first link folds all the way as to gen. Now, noticed the mid link on the SEL of V5 is a tad thicker than gen LT3? The gen sample the Chinese maker used has this very feature. What I'm trying to say here? I want members to acknowledge even gen Rolex makes different variations from each production batch. Left: TC 93250 V5. Right: Gen LT3 93250. 3. Some members complained that TC 93250 bracelets do not have the same smoothness when folding as the gen 93250 does. I want members to know gen 93250 bracelet costs USD $1,000 at Rolex service center. TC 93250 V5 costs CNY $350. That's roughly USD $57. Both are made of 316L stainless steel. Both shared the same design, same engineering construction. It's the after process that makes gen 93250 bracelet folds and feels butter smooth. Some modders on the forums have their own in-house lubricating formula. If you are looking for that gen's smooth hand feel, I would recommend members to seek a trusted modder's help for lubricating the bracelet to gen like silk smoothness. The Solid End Link (SEL) on TC 93250 V5 has continued the lineage of the V3 and craftsmanship. The edge of the SEL is a sharp 90° angel cut as how gen is. The thickness of the SEL is also Gen like. This means TC 93250 V5 can fit TC V-series Sub mid case, Factory Direct M-series Sub mid case (AKA WM9 Sub mid case), BK's TW mid case, and most importantly a gen Sub case (with some minor sanding needed 0.02 mm-0.04 mm)。 Gen to the left. TC 93250 V5 to the right. This is TC 93250 V5 on a Factory Direct M-series mid case AKA WM9 V2 mid case. Check out the hairline brush and finish. Can you tell which one is gen? Diver's extension. SEL Fitment: Some members reported there may be gap between SEL and watch lugs. This is one of the issues I want to solve during the development of TC 93250 V5. First let me clarify one thing, that is even Gen has a tiny gap. That gap is 0.02 mm. An average male's hair is 0.08 mm. The bracelet maker can not guarantee 0.02 mm (+/- 0.01) variance on SEL width. His best effort was 0.05 mm (+/- 0.02). This is how 0.05 mm gap looks like. Since the time I received KH 16610 dials, I felt the drive to push the bar for quality a step forward. I started to use a caliper to measure mid case lugs distance. Then I found out TC Sub mid cases lugs distances have variances, and the variances may be dramatically big. So I placed an order of 2 different SEL specs from the bracelet maker this time to solve the problem once for all. The specs are 20.10 (+/- 0.02) mm and 20.15 (+/- 0.02) mm. Before each assembly, I measure the lugs both the 6 and 12'clock sides. Then I can simply decide which spec bracelets to use to make that perfect gen like fitment. Caddell 25-295-C Rouge to the left. Gen V-series to the right. Thanks for reading. TC 3/6/14

Received a package from UK today then spend the night building this piece. A step closer to the goal. Finest print quality I have seen. Gen print job, I would call it. Gen hour markers, gen lume job. Gen Super luminova C1 lume. Gentlemen, TC 16610 Sub V6 TC 11/20/13

Now it is time for a proper introduction of the Caddell Submariners which members have been seeing on "Caddell Submariner x 2", and "TC/Caddell Vintage Insert". First let me clarify by pointing out the Caddell Submariners are my own iteration of Rolex Submariner. They are custom builds according to my own designs, preferences, and aesthetics based on TC 16610 gen spec parts. While TC Sub, the perfect Submariner project started off about an year and half ago as an spiritual escape from an ugly divorce, Caddell Submariner is a side way tour I recently find fun and excited while sitting on a pile of gen spec TC Sub parts. I wasn't so sure where to start in the beginning or even messing with the original Rolex design was a good idea or not. Rolex designers spent hundreds of hours on research and on drawing board simulations before finalizing a design. The only thing I could do to validate my own is to run the same kind of trials and errors. The more I delved into it, the more addicted I got. I realized that Rolex really hit a home run coming up with this classic 16610 Submariner. My very first mod, a TC 16610 Sub with 25-286 crystal. 25-286 is a 2.00 mm thick pre-modern Rolex crystal that fits Air-King Datejust, Explorer and other models without date window or cyclops. My intention was to give the 16610 a younger, and a more Rolex Sea-Dweller look like face lift. I would not categorize this a Caddell Submariner. To me, and to most members, this is just a mod. It is not really a new creation. During my trip to Japan for TC DWO V3. I had this fantasy making the dates with negative colors. Thought it would give a more aggressive, younger touch to the 16610. By now, I am sure many expert members have been noticing the spectacular gen featured 16610 dials on the Caddell Subs and wondering what that is about. I say gen featured because I still can't be sure what it is about either at this point. During my most recent business trip to Europe, I had a chance to meet a potential business partner whom turned out to be a Rolex aficionado. I was wearing a TC LV Sub with gen black insert that caught his attention. After a few seconds of checking out the watch he praised the maxi dial and black insert combination. Then he asked where I received the insert alteration. I came clean and told him my journey for the perfect Sub which made his jaw drop. He was amazed by the build quality. He did not believe reps can come in at this level. We chatted on some more. I explained to him my recent dial issues and my desperation to find a good dial maker. It was a great chat which lasted into the late night. End of the night he told me he's got some brand new 16610 dials which he couldn't use but would like to pass to me as a gift. We arranged to meet up the next day at his workshop. He opened a fine cherry wood box and handed me a small plastic dial seal. I opened the box and saw a 16610 gen dials inside. I examined it with the magnifying glass. Everything looked right. The indices are gen, the lume application is gen, and the dial print is gen. But when I flipped to the back my jaw dropped. The back is not stamped by Rolex, and the dial feet was made to fit ETA 2800 series movement not the Rolex 3135 movement. I have never ever seen anything like this in the past years trolling in China. This is BIG!!!! I did not know something like this exist. I asked my friend where did he get this? He shrugged. One of the two is gen. The question is, which one? If you ask me TC, so is this gen dial or not? I have to tell you No, because I really do not know. It has the gen dial's pedigree in terms of the way than indices, lume, and fonts. But we all know gen dials have different dial feet and the Rolex Stamps. This might be a hybrid, a mod, or something. But then again, I have never ever seen a rep dial with gen Rolex indices pin holes like this. However baffled, I am very very excited about this discovery. My British friend donated a few of these 16610 dials to me to fund my journey ahead. I requested a bulk order or a quantity purchase but he politely refused. Instead he promised to send over a couple of these 16610 dials from time to time. "Consider it a seed fund for your bigger venture." He said. Hence, I'd like to name the very 16610 dial "Kensington High 16610 dial" or "KH 16610 dial". Since I cannot procure these KH 16610 dials on a regular and consistent bases, I will only be using these on the Caddell Submariner Series. Caddell Submariner features the same "TC V-series Sub case set" as the rest of the TC Sub line. It is also coupled with the "TC 93250 V4 bracelet" and "TC 2824 movement". Caddell Sub also features the very gen Kensington High 16610 dials, TC's home brew flavor black base color, white date DWO and TC/Caddell Vintage Insert. I have dedicated my entire stack of KH 16610 dials to the Caddell Subs this time. I do not know how many my Brit friend will sponsor me next month; turn around time on these may be a while once I sell out. The designations are as followed. Caddell Submariner 25-295-C Caddell Submariner 25-286 Caddell Submariner Rouge 25-295-C Caddell Submariner Rouge 25-286 Thanks for reading. TC 9/21/13

I want to make a quick update on TC gen spec insert project. Many members have emailed me regarding TC gen spec insert after seeing "Caddell Submariner x 2" and "Like My New 16610 Sub?" "TC, is the insert finally done?" I am sorry but the answer is no. But over the past few months I have made a huge leap forward. In the past I have always recommended members to invest the money on a gen insert. It is probably the most worthy gen part to invest in my opinion because aftermarket pearls have always been a big give away. To get the pearl right is not an easy task. After numerous trial and errors, I have finally completed the gen spec pearl. This is what I want to show you. Trial and error until it is done. Guess which one is gen? The most costly part of the insert project is the pearl and lume. The cost is US$55 each on average. The entire pearl and lume application are done here in the United States. To get it done right like a gen is something beyond the current capabilities of the Chinese. As mentioned in "TC Gen Spec Bezel Insert Progress Update Part I", The pilot batch of aluminum insert was milled off spec causing the edge a tad thicker than gen. My supplier in China did not have the time to help over such trivia matter so I've decided to take matter into my own hands again and re-do the milling. This time the insert is milled perfectly to gen spec. However, I could not find any body to do the polishing job domestically so I sent the entire batch over to China. The polisher could not get the polish done completely flat so the surface still look rounded. I thought I'd be [censored] but when I saw the final product I was pleasantly surprised. This finish looks and feels like the vintage Omega Seamaster 300 or a vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. It's a classic beauty! It goes extremely well with the TC 16610 Sub V5 as well as the Caddell Submariners. I decided to call it "TC Vintage Insert". Thanks for reading. TC 9/17/13

Which one do you like better? TC 9/12/13

TC 9/10/13

This is my latest built. I called it TC LV Sub Type III. It's basically what I have been passing on to members for the past few months. I just haven't had time to update it in my blog until now. It features TC 2824 movement, TC Date Wheel Overlay V3, and TC 93250 V4 bracelet, and TC Sub Bezel Assembly with my custom made TC click spring. First thing, apologies for the lengthy turnaround time to members who placed orders on TC LV Sub in the past couple of months due to the development on TC DWO V3. But the way TC DWO V3 turned out is nothing short of the most gen like Date Wheel Overlay, a terrific milestone to the pursue of the perfect sub. I am sure we can all agree the wait was well worth it. It was not long after I post the progress update "TC DWO V3 Completed" I found out I was running low on the good 16610LV dials. For those who follows my blog you all should remember the same incident happened about an year ago on the 16610 dials while I was building TC 16610 Subs for members. The shortage of good 16610 dials and the reluctance of the dial maker making new rep dials, read "Bumps in the road, 16610 dial maker" lead to the discontinuation of TC 16610, leaving me with only TC 16610LV to offer to members. Without the good dials, there will be no use of hands, watch cases, bracelets, movements, and other parts. Earlier this year, I recommended members who wanted a classic 16610 Submariner to buy a pack of 6 16610 dials (damaged) from me to complete the build by themselves or by a modder on the forum. Read "$35 Damaged 16610 dial." I did not wish to take on the dial picking/piecing job because it is VERY time consuming. As I'm now out of good 16610LV dials, a strange feeling struck me that my little hobby which has supported me since my divorce might come to a halt unless I can solve this dial supply issue. I spent a few nights sorting and picked out only a few dozen 16610 and 16610LV dials without scratches or dents on the surface from the rejected ones which can be used as the base. Those dials without scratches or dents on the surface all have bad indices or misaligned 6 o'clock or 9 o'clock indices. I took off the bad indices and replaced them from the rest of the rejected dials with good indices. Piecing together a good 16610 or a 16610LV dial from the knock offs consumes a lot of time. An extra hour and half to two hours is needed to piece together just one good dial. But once it is done, it looks just as good as a brand new one. TC LV Sub Type 3 is a great platform for members to put on a gen 16610 black or 16610LV green insert. It has all the gen features, gen profile, all it need is a good insert. I would recommend members to get a gen 16610 or 16610LV insert. Gen insert doesn't come cheap, but IMHO, it's worth every penny when put on a TC Sub. Type 3's TC Sub bezel assembly is gen insert ready. No sanding or trimming the insert rim is needed. The catch is you'll need a press tool to complete the job. Many members have installed gen inserts on their TC Subs. For more pictures of TC Sub with gen inserts, take a look at Member reviews of TC Subs. After note: Since I decided to take on picking/piecing the dials I am now able to offer both 16610 and 16610LV TC Subs in limited supplies until they run out. I will designate the 16610 version as TC 16610 Sub version V or TC Sub V5. TC Sub V5 is equivalently spec-ed as TC LV Sub Type III except TC Sub V5 houses the classic 16610 dial and hands. TC 8/17/13

This is the 4th version of TC 93250 bracelet. It's predecessor was TC 93250 V3. TC 93250 V4 is made by a different bracelet maker. The V3 bracelet maker refuses to make improvements on the V3 clasp coronet or place engravings in the SEL trench. To me, the V3 bracelet served as a good quality stainless steel bracelet. However, the coronet on the V3 clasp is the Achilles' heel because it is not as protruding as V2 clasp, which representing gen oyster clasps from 2002 to 2007, or is not as slim and crisp as gen oyster clasps from 2008 to 2010. Earlier this year I promised Janeto72 to persuade the V3 bracelet maker to make Janeto/TC 93253 bracelet for the two tone Submariner 16613. With the V3 maker reluctant to make further improvements, I had to seek alternative options/makers because making two tone bracelet requires even more accurate tooling and machining. Another reason being the V3 maker was reluctant to make any more counterfeit watch bracelets. I will try to debrief the atmosphere in China some time later. Let's just stick to the topic for now. Sifu L hooked me up with a reputable bracelet maker in Thailand. He vouched for me that I'm not some undercover agent from FHS (Federation de l'industrie horologere Suisse). Then the project 93250 V4 went on. TC 93250 V4 bracelet maker gave me a tour of his factory before I placed the order. I was quite satisfied with what I saw - a clean, organized manufacturing facility with seemingly civilized, Westernized administration, which translates to easier communication. Before my review, I want you to know the batch I received has some variance issues. Here's SSTEEL's review: My Interim Review of Ordering/Purchasing TC's Type II LV Sub. Here's the problem reported from HeuerTag and pbwatch on RG: Pictures: TC 93250 V4 bracelet. After reading the reported problems, I spent the whole weekend unpacking every piece of TC 93250 V4 I received and inspect each one of them. I did find variances and some I would categorize as defective units even by rep standard. To make sure TC 93250 V4 has the best fit with TC Sub case, I have to hand pick and match the bracelet to the case. Therefore I will no longer pass TC 93250 V4 to members as a stand alone part. SSTEEL reported TC 93250 V4 safety clasp edge being a little sharp. It is true. I checked my gen safety clasp and I confirm it is a gen feature. See how gen edge is polished to the point it begins to turn just mirror finish. Same with TC 93250 V4 safety clasp. If you are already accustomed to the modern super cased Submariner 116610 all rounded edges, just a tad sharp at the safety clasp is how classic Submariner 16610 really feels like. If you don't like it, the edge can be dull out by a nail file. Take away the variance issues, TC 93250 V4 bracelet is probably by far the best stainless steel Submariner bracelet I ever found. The V4 SEL has the same good fit to TC Sub watch case as V3 did. TC LV Sub to the left, Gen 16610 Sub to the right. The bracelet edges are gen finish. TC 93250 V4 clasp coronet against gen. Gen to the left, TC 93250 V4 at the center left, TC 93250 V3 center right, TC 93250 V2 to the right. While my pursuit is after the perfect sub, we have to remember that we are also paying 1/15th of the price compare to a gen. With this said, I will have to strive a balance and pick and choose which I will have to sacrifice with my limited resource. This is my logic of evaluation. Since my goal is the aesthetics of looking and feeling like a gen, the improved coronet is a big step forward in the right direction. The SEL trench etching is an added bonus but when push comes to the shelf, the etching I can do without since no one will see. Over all, the improved coronet on the V4 clasp along with the etched 93250 are the winning points for me. In the end of the day, TC 93250 V4 represents the original 93250 finish better than any of its predecessors. TC 8/14/13

I was excited the whole weekend because TC DWO V3 bulk order came in. I played with it and checked every little detail against the gen. I also put half dozen of the V3 DWO on TC 2824 movements. Let us turn back time almost an year ago when we were struggling for a better, lighter, white base color: $15 TC Rolex Font Date Wheel Overlay Version 2. Now we are looking at this - correct white base, each date is raise printed in high gloss. Let's take a look at some of the dates. I am VERY excited the printer was able to get rid of the leaked edges found in the pilot samples. Now we are a step closer. Early this month, I made an extended stay in Asia to discuss details of a possible deal with the maker who made this. I said I would update TC gen spec bezel project in my last blog entry but haven't done that. I will try to find time to update that as well as possible new version of 93250 and 93253 project in the following weeks. Now I need to focus in making some TC Subs. Folks who made orders earlier, I apologize for the delay. TC 5/26/13

I mentioned I paid a visit to a fellow apprentice of my seller in "Dial Maker and Pam Maker - TC's Progress Update Part II". Well, Sifu L is a walking plugged Wikipedia of both gen and rep watches. I wore a TC 16610 Sub v4 with gen insert when I met him. I handed over what I have achieved to the master when he asked about the watch. He looked at it for a few seconds then he pointed out a few places I overlooked the details. The "Date Wheel Overlay" being one. Rolex has slightly modified the date font into a more elegant, eye appealing font in 2009 or 2010. The mod was subtle but important. See, human eyes can accept more information than our brains could interpret to words. We sense the work of art and feel joy about it but few among us would be able to articulate the subtle differences. Sifu L is convinced that I am determined to get the classic Submariner 16610 perfectly repped. So he made a list of contacts I should pay visit to. My first stop is a printing company hidden in the overly crowded modern Asian city streets. The hostess first placed my gen 2010 16610 date wheel on a gigantic glass drum. Then she carefully placed the glass drum into this machine. It is a Crosfield 6250. What does it do? It scans the hell out of the DWO with high DPI out of the original script. Our usual home/office scanners output at 300 DPI, 600 DPI the most. This running antique output a scary 12,000 DPI. Here's a video I found on youtube of actual footage the machine scanning something. After the scanning is done, the Japanese contessa is doing her magic tricks on the scan. She pulled TC V2 DWO draft in red and layered it against the gen 2010 V Sub DWO scan in black. Now I want to make a note here, difference this subtle is very very hard to notice. Your eyes may see it, your brain will comprehend and enjoy the more elegant curve, font I mean, but you will not notice it in just 2.5 x magnitude. On the screen, it is 400 times of actual size of the DWO. Then she individually turn the numbers into semi transparent layer and gradually worked the draft to fully matched with the gen DWO scan for printing. Some members reported TC DWO V1 and V2 are a tad left justified. I do not think it is the print that is left justified. I've talked about the issue in "TC Submariner with Gen ETA 2678" It is more likely the dial feet have 0.01 or 0.02 mm variance. Simply give it a tap at the opposite position on the edge of the dial will fix DWO being, well seemingly, left justified. That is also why I encourage members to first practice with TC DWO V1. Let's hear the final verdict. TC DWO version 2. Gen 2010 V Sub. TC DWO version 3 pilot sample. Where the hell is the difference? You may ask. First of, take a good look at 2, you'll notice the font is different, especially on the upper level. TC DWO version 3 is a lot closer to gen. Then you'll notice the beginning and ending of 7 is totally different on the V2 and gen. V2 is more of a clean cut from the beginning to end while gen has more Roman-ish beginning and end. The V3 pilot samples have some rough edges, like leaked ink. I gave the printing company this feedback and they will work on it. My first batch of TC DWO V3 is scheduled to arrive in the second week of May. Apologies for the delay to members who placed orders recently. I'll be talking about this in the next episode of Project Update. Thanks for reading. TC 4/25/13

I'm biased because TC 2824 is American. The company behind it will announce its proper designation in a few months.

TC 2824 vs ETA 2824-2 The companies made this movement will announce its proper designation in a few months so let's just call this "TC 2824" for now. Not long after I picked up this hobby, I realized I had to find an alternative. I've looked into the possibility of Japanese movements. Didn't go that route because Seiko/Miyota movements are damn hard to micro adjust to all 5 or 6 positions. I'm not saying the Japanese movements are inferior or of less quality built. I'm just saying they are less refined. I had to turn to "Clones", whether a Swiss clone or a Chinese clone as long as they do the job, I'll take 'em. Sellita didn't want my business because my order quantity was too small for them. The Chinese would take my business but all three major Chinese movement makers frown upon my quality requirements. I asked nothing more than a "standard grade" of ETA 2824-2. That is an average rate of (within) +/-12 seconds/day, with a maximum deviation of 30 seconds. Plus I want #4 Canon Pinion. I had no luck with the Chinese. They either wouldn't guarantee quality or they just won't make an ETA 2824-2 clone in #4 canon pinion. The standard #2 canon pinion is what they would supply. Why #4 canon pinion is so important to me? Because it eliminates the factor other reps looks FAKE and UGLY! FAIL: TC 2824 #4 CANON PINION GEN FEATURE: This comes to fruition after a very long 11 months of wait. TC 2824 with #4 Canon Pinion: Gen ETA 2824-2 with #4 Canon Pinion: Let's see how well "TC 2824" movement performs. Thanks to Xperia78 for videos and commentaries. Some significant features of TC 2824 I want to highlight: Smooth line - that means very high quality hairspring and balance wheel. deviation is minimal, less than 5 seconds. steady performance in all 5 or 6 positions. These features that TC 2824 displays prove it a high quality movement. It easily out performs some lower grade ETA blank movements. Now you've seen how well TC 2824 performs, I want to take you into a more in depth view of the movement. Before we do, I want to refer a great article on WUS. It's an 9 pages long discussion and tear down of ETA 2824-2 and the Chinese clones: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f72/how-do-seagull-hangzhou-compare-eta-depth-look-216945.html I want to review TC 2824-2 in the same depth so let's tear down a TC 2824 and make a comparison with an ETA 2824-2. First thing that is visually different, the shock resistant system - This is Etachoc or so called Novodiac shock system from ETA. This is TCBLOC. It actually has a term: "the simple cushion" according to the maker. It is a clone of Etachoc/Novodiac shock system with a simpler design. It offers the same performance, but the cost of making it is significantly lower than its ETA counterparts. The simple cushion is cheap and readily available. It is seen on almost all ETA clones. TCBLOC is also very easy to replace with a "Incabloc" shock absorb if you know how to do it. Let's put TC 2824 to a real life drop test. You should prevent your watch from dropping no matter what. When a mechanical movement encountered too much shock it will break just like everything else. I did the real life test for you so you need not. Neither the company behind TC 2824 or I will provide free service if the movement malfunctions due to drop. TC 2824 consists of 26 jewels while ETA 2824-2 is made of 25 jewels. The Chinese Seagull ST2130 has 28 jewels. The Hangzhou 6300 has 25 Jewels. The Swiss Sellita SW200 also has 26 jewels. The barrel bridge side by side. This is where TC 2824 has one extra jewel to ETA 2824-2. Sellita SW200 Barrel Bridge: http://zairyoya.kuron.jp/tokeibuhin/sellita_sw_200_105_barrel_bridge. Now, I'm not saying the company behind TC 2824 supplies Sellita blanks for SW200. I am not saying anything at all. These are Nivarox balance spring and Glucydur balance wheel. You haven't hear me say how I like TC 2824 yet. I don't like it, I LOVE IT! See how it is chamfered where the bridge is closest to the balance wheel? (Left) It reduces the chance balance wheel touches the bridge when the whole movement is in shock. You don't see that in a standard ETA 2824-2. The company behind TC 2824 has put a lot of thoughts in micro adjusting the design of this movement. I'll say it again, I LOVE TC 2824. This is TC 2824 performance spec sheet vs ETA 2824-2 Standard grade: With all the findings, I categorize TC 2824 a "super clone" and the "answer" for independent watchmakers. Thanks for reading. TC