andreww

Thats the way it should work. 9:00 subdial is the seconds hand and should constantly run

Nobody ever accused you of being dishonest. But IMO, if you feel that you need to make profit on your watches, become a dealer or a modder. Let me ask you this, if the watch died a week after you sold it, what recourse would the buyer have had? That is what you pay for when you buy from any of the big money dealers that you mention, Service. You can not offer that, and your price should reflect that.

Okay, first off he never said where he got the watch, but it has become common practice in sales threads to quote Josh and Andrew's pricing. That is BS! When you buy from J&A you are buying the watch + service + guaranteed delivery. A reseller can offer nothing but the watch, so even mentioning pricing from J&A is a joke. Chads HBB was essentially Silix's $350 version. Shipping the entire watch to Jacob for AR should be doable for about $100, much cheaper if he popped the crystal and sent that alone. So, a total investment of $450 or so. To ask upwards of $600 is simply gouging. Heck, if you want to pay the premium for the AR service that is fine, BUT YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TO KNOW WHAT YOU ARE PAYING FOR. Nobody crapped on Chad's thread. They simply informed the consumer, which is what this place is all about... ...isn't it?

It was $130 on top of the cost of the watch + AR

The version that Chad was selling did not have a ceramic bezel like Trusty & Josh's expensive version. His was basically the Lite version that Silix sells for under $400 with AR. He was trying to sell it for about $130 more than what it would cost to buy the watch new. I believe that people have the right to benefit from the knowledge of more educated members as to whether a price is fair or not. I know nothing about HBBs and may have unknowingly jumped at that watch, and am thankful for the input.

I believe members should speak up. If someone is trying to sell a used watch for more than what our dealers are selling a brand new watch, with warranty for, then members have the right to know. I am not an expert in HBBs but can see that Chad was trying to pass his watch off for more than what it was. Where he got it from or how much he paid really has nothing to do with it. Simple fact, if you are trying to sell for above the market price, the membership should be aware. The sales section has gone to pot over the past year IMO. There will be some ugly episodes like this until sellers get the message, but in the long run I think we are better off without the opportunists that are trying to make a buck on naive members.

Depends on what movement is in it. If its asian, the movement is likely not worth the money to repair. If its ETA, then it is worth repairing. Pop the caseback and post a pic.

In these kinds of forums you will find that a lot of people are hung up on authenticity as that really is the nature of our hobby. Polishing the center links would probably look quite nice, but the authenticity would suffer. If that doesn't bother you, go for it! It's a simple mod that can easily be reversed if you are not happy with the results!

Interesting, but... The price quoted is definitely for a quartz watch. As I recall the Flat 6 Chrono, Automatic sells for about $4000 at my AD. I understand thats just the sticker price, but I think you'd be hard pressed to find one for under $3000. That would make the rep at about 10% of the cost of the gen, a good value if you ask me. As By-Tor stated, A7750s have a bit of a bad reputation if you ask me. I have several that are a couple of years old, and have never had a problem. BTW, your estimate for servicing from Zig is wrong. Last I heard 7750 servicing was over $200 + shipping.

The blue tint on the glass may or may not be a "tell", but aside from that you have to consider how greatly double AR affects the appearance of the watch. Dark colored dials benefit greatly from the effects of AR as illustrated below. I've removed half of the outer AR coating for demonstration purposes. Note the clarity of the coated side in comparison. If this is a watch that is going to be treated with care, then I would seriously consider re-coating it. If it's going to be a daily used watch, and exposed to the elements the I'd pass.

Personally I'd prefer the 21k in the UPO. The gen beats at something like 25k and has a definite stutter to it. IMO the 21k is a more accurate replacement.

Sweet trio my friend! Is that a gen bezel on the SA btw?

I'm with Rasta on this one. The markers on the rep dial are just too small. Easy to spot. Same with the pearl sitting too low, dead giveaway. Rep hands are fine, but you'd have too relume to match the dial. I'd also just get CT AR instead of a gen crystal.

This has been discussed many times. Use the search feature.

I've often wondered if it might not be a better idea to buy the gen, replace the movement with an ETA, the sell the gen co-axial movement for big dollars? You would end up with a perfect rep, all gen, for not much more than a franken UPO.

P4GTR, why assume that it is game over just because a watch has an Asian movement? Cost of servicing an ETA is over $100 plus shipping. Cost of replacing an Asian movement is less than $25, and with minimal practice you can do it by yourself. To me that just makes much more sense, especially considering the decent pricing on Lite versions of "SuperReps" lately.

My Silix was stamped as well. When The Zigmeister worked on it he informed me that it was fake. You can't go by markings anymore.

Yes the asian movements cant be fixed, but they are readily available and can be swapped out for next to nothing. Seriously, most of the asian movements can be had for less than $25. When you order one, get a couple of spares and you're set!

Not a big fan of ETA movements anyway Zig, and would much prefer having a 2813 or 4813 provided the cost savings is passed on to me by the dealers. You worked on my watch, and informed me that my ETA marked 2824 was actually an Asian clone. So, I really know nothing about the movement, and if it were to die, I'm not even 100% sure if an real ETA would fit? At least with a cheaper Asian movement (2813 or 4813) you know that they are readily available and very inexpensive. I've just never really understood the growing premium guys are ready to pay just to have an ETA movement. With the rising costs and decreasing availability, I can guarantee you that the manufactures will try to pull the wool over our eyes more often

Zig recently did a PO for me and I can tell you that it glows very brightly. I am amazed that after being outside, it glows brightly in regular room lighting. Driving under an underpass, it glows. Its just that much better than any rep lume that I have seen!

Here is my Silix PO on the Silix rubber strap... Notice the "ledge" on the backside where the rubber lip overhangs. This keeps the strap from sliding upwards. The UPO does not have this "Ledge", its more rounded, and there is nothing to hold the strap in place.

My Silix PO was confirmed by The Zigmeister as being an ETA clone (see the first link in original post). I am [censored] that he would misrepresent his products in this way. However, I am one that believes that ETA movements are over rated and over priced. The winding gears are very fragile, and the stem removal / keyless works are very fragile. I would much prefer to have a DG2813 or DG4813 at a significant cost savings, as I find them just as reliable and a little easier to work with. But, charging ETA prices for Asian movements just doesn't cut it in my books!

Like I said, the problem is not the strap, its the case.

Looks awesome Lan. I just picked up the Silix version for my Silix PO and have to say that it fits the case perfectly. As you have probably noticed, the strap is very stiff between the lugs where the "V" is. This forces you to have to tighten the strap up pretty hard to hold it against the sides of your wrist. I can see how that would cause the gap at the top as you showed. The Silix PO seems to have an extra lip on the underside between the lugs, which the bottom part of the strap seems to fit into nicely. I noticed my UPO cases are shaped a little differently on the bottom, and there is no lip for the underside of the strap to grip on to. I believe that is the problem with the UPO. I've tried the thinnest springbars I have, and the strap is still solid on the Silix PO, so although that may help, it really shouldn't be necessary on a properly fitting strap.

Actually, the watch comes in more than the "rusty" version. It comes in SS, or PVD as well. As far as it being made from Titanic steel, thats a bit of hype. The manufacture secured a piece of steel from the Titanic before it was declared untouchable. I've not heard how much they obtained, but whatever it was, it has been diluted with normal steel. Kind of reminds me of when Kiss released their comic book. Each member of the band poured about an ounce of their own blood in to this huge vat of printing ink. It wasn't very much but was enough to claim that each comic book had been printed with "real Kiss blood"