mucrewbtp

The collectors galleries are the watches that each collector has for sale. Some of the collectors have prices posted and others you will have to send an email or hit the PM (private message) button and ask them. It's also useful sometimes to mail a seller and ask them specifically if they have something that isn't listed. A lot of times they don't have everything listed on their gallery. Happy watch buying. -Matt

Go to the initial page that lists all of the forum sections, and the watch sellers are under the "collectors" heading. I would also suggest checking out trustytime.com and perfectclones88.com, thats where I get my watches from, I think those sites are easier for noobs. They are easier to navigate and you can pay with a credit card. I'll probably get crucified by the veterans for sending someone off of the forum to buy watches, but I just think the big websites are easier. The best Breitling reps out there are the Steelfish Superocean and the Chronomat Evolution in my opinion, and you can pretty much find those anywhere. -Matt

Its a Porsche Design chrono, heres a better picture of it. http://expertscorner.lussori.com/wp-conten...schedesign2.jpg Excuse my sloppy external link, I haven't figured how to post pics yet.

Ive been looking at Andrew's Milgauss 1019 with the white dial for about six months now and I really want it. I was wondering if anyone has seen one of these in person and can attest to how good of a rep it is. Also, does anyone know if the real Milgauss 1019 was offered with the riveted bracelet, I like the looks of it but I'm worried that its not correct. Any help would be appreciated -Matt

I have a 5th gen 45mm UPO from Andrew that I routinely dive with. However, the He valve is a real weak point and should be permanently sealed if you want it to stand up to some decent pressure. Take out the movement and seal the He valve from the inside with epoxy, and grease the caseback seal and the crown seal while you're at it. It also helps to have a caseback wrench to really torque down the back. After treating mine like this I have had it on dives down to 80 feet for 35 minutes with no problems.

Donation sent

I just reported him too. I'm waiting to see how long it is until ebay pulls the ad. I also sent the guy an email just for fun, I wonder if I'll get a reply.

I have actually used my UPO for scuba diving. I did a few things to it first though. The helium valve is actually just a screw going through the case with a crown on the end of it and it isn't waterproof at all. You have to take the movement out and use some epoxy putty to permanently seal the He valve shut from the inside of the case. Make sure you work the putty into the threads and pack it in all around the screw. Once you've done that screw and unscrew the valve a few times to make sure it is really worked in there. Then screw it back in really tight and pack the putty back in around where the screw comes through on the inside of the case. Now, after this do not touch the He valve for 24 hours while the epoxy is hardening. After this put some silicone grease on the caseback seal and on the inside of the crown tube. Finally, use a case wrench to really torque down the caseback and you should be fine. I've had mine at fifteen feet deep for an hour with no problems, and two weeks from now I'm going diving again to eighty feet for about 35-40 minutes and I'll be able to give it the real test. I think it should do just fine. I'll post my results from that dive if I remember, I don't think people give waterproofed UPO's enough credit.

Pardon the bump, I am just hoping this thread gets noticed by whoever actually has the PAW currently. I will be doing several other dives on the Sheldon this summer, and a few on another Lake Erie wreck. I would hope this thread gets noticed in time. -Mike

I agree, the proper care can render most watches reasonably water resistant. I regularly scuba dive with my 16610 sub rep. Every couple of dives i check and re grease the case back and crown/stem seals. I have been maintaining it in this way and using it as my regular diving companion and I have never had a problem with it. To reference a previous post, I don't understand why someone would not trust the water resistance of a genuine SMP Chrono. I have one of these (the gen.) and it is a very solid and well made watch. It is actually one of the few chronographs on which the chrono pushers can be used at depth with no sacrifice to water resistance. To the person who will not take his SMP near the shower, he is either lying and it is a very dodgy rep, or he is just paranoid, go take it diving thats what it is made for.

If the PAW can make it back stateside this summer I can waterproof the watch and get some photos of it on a shipwreck. I will be conducting an archaeological survey of the wreck of the Sarah E. Sheldon in Lake Erie. I am a volunteer diver with the Great Lakes Historical Society, and will be surveying this wreck and another this summer. It would be nice to get the watch upgraded, and have some photos of it in its natural habitat. For the enjoyment of any divers in the forum here are some photos taken by another member of the survey team during the survey of the Dundee last summer. Deck winch with downline attached. Deck Winch again. A still standing section of mast rising up through the mostly intact deck. Inside one of the 9 cargo holds. Anchor windlass and machinery at the partially collapsed bow. The bow viewed head on, partially collapsed. The rudder post at the mostly intact stern. Me descending to the Dundee on the downline. Another shot of me (right) and my brother (left) after the dive waiting at a saftey stop, notice the SMP Chrono anyone? -Mike

It sounds like there is either a damaged running seconds wheel or there is some sort of dirt or debris on it. This would cause the movement to jam up consistently at the same spot. Either way, this is a problem that would have to be checked out by a watchmaker. You might want to contact the dealer if you have bought it recently.

I just thought I would let all the skeptics know, that when properly cared for, these watches are water proof. Today I went scuba diving with my perfect sub from Joshua. Before diving I made sure all of the seals were well greased and that everything was tight. Long story short, the watch held up to over 65 feet for a total bottom time of almost an hour. I would trust this watch for anything within recreational diving limits. For all those that would like to use a sub for their regular diver, go for it. As long as you take care of it, it should take care of you. -Mike

I wear my Rolex sub. I figure with everyone trying to artificially vintagize these things I might as well just wear it and let it develop a natural patina.

Are you winding the watch until the crown stops turning? If you are, it may only need a cleaning and lubrication, a local shop should be able to do this for little cost.

It appears to be a genuine ETA. Check for ETA's shield logo under the balance wheel near the edge of the movement to be sure.

What sort of problem were you having with the original movement?

I use a teflon gun grease that I got from a sporting goods store that works rather well. I think it is called tetra gun or tetra lube something like that. It should be in wal mart by the ammunition.

The pictures are up in the Rolex forum under the title "Watch Porn, A Vintage Lady Datejust With Her Clothes Off" Sorry there isnt much explanation with the photos, but I was really tired by the time I got around to doing it. Enjoy, Mike

Is that the crystal that came with the watch? It looks like it is a lot thicker than the crystal on the perfect sub I ordered from josh. Thanks, Mike

I recently began the task of servicing and repairing a pair of 70's vintage Datejusts that have not been serviced since new and finally are showing their age. I will be posting pictures of the proscess for those interested. This phase here is the teardown of the movement. There was actually much less wear than I would expect out of a 30-ish year old watch that was worn daily and never serviced. After examining everything all the watch needs is a good cleaning and a new castle wheel (Clutch) Somehow a few teeth are missing. This seems strange since the watch was worn constantly and the time was hardly ever re set. Anyway here are the pictures. After going over this movement, I am very impressed with the fit and finish of these genuine peices. I know it is hard to tell from my dodgy pictures, but everything on the ebauche is either jeweled or mirror polished. One of the most suprising features to me is the jeweled lever that acts upon the date change cam, I have never seen a date wheel mechanism work this way before, but then again most of my experience is on Eta's. Anyway, I hope you enjoy the pics, I have always been fascinated by the inner workings of watches, so I figured I would share these pictures with others who enjoy looking at these things taken apart. As the project progresses I will post updates on how the cleaning/restoration works out. -Mike

There are a few websites I used as a reference when I did my first service of a 7750. This one ( http://www.timezone.com/library/horologium...674031715938957 ) has a lot of detailed pictures you can use as a reference when re-assembling a 7750. There is also a post by The Zigmeister on replacing an Asian 7750 with a swiss in a pam chrono that also had a lot of good pics. Sorry, I lost the bookmark but you should be able to find it. Also you can use the 7750 oil charts from ( www.ofrei.com ) as a reference. The charts show an exploded diagram showing where the parts go and in what order, it will also tell you with what and where to oil the movement. The 7750 chrono really isn't all that hard to work on, it is fairly neatly divided into a chronograph plate, and the normal timekeeping plate. If you can handle an automatic with no problem you should be able to figure out the chronograph with a little patience. I hope this helps, Mike

First off, I would like to thank By-Tor and TTK for finally coming through and helping me with my search. Second, I had no idea my original post would spark this much controversy and debate. After reading all of the responses in this thread I can understand why many members were leery about offering up information. I did not realize there were shills around trying to draw out and expose dealers to legal action. Looking back, the vague nature of my original question and the low post count could make it look as if I had other motives. I should have been more clear in my post and explained what I already knew and what specifically was having trouble finding. I know I look like a noob based on the statistics, but I have been reading this forum and others (Replica Watches Guide, TRC) for quite some time, and have learned a great deal from the membership. I did not post very much because I mostly found what I needed by searching. I know nobody could have known this, and people can only form opinions based on the information they have. I will admit I did get defensive rather quickly, but I sort of felt as if I were speaking for every newbie who was given a hard time for asking a newbie question. Anyway now that I am becoming more adept at this hobby I look forward to becoming a contributing member of this forum. Again I would like to thank those that in the end helped me out, and those that backed me up in this thread. Also I harbor no ill-will to anyone who gave me a hard time. Thanks, Mike Ps. Tonight or tomorrow I will be posting some pics of the tear down phase of a Rolex Cal. 2135 if anyone is interested. I know this is a rep forum but I figured some people may be interested in it for the sake of eye candy or curiosity on how the gens are put together.

Like I said before, I read that and it didn't answer my questions. If you had read my previous post that source is obviously the one I was referring to. It is more of a review of a particular watch than of the MBW line. If you are not interested in helping me just don't respond. Don't be an elitist ass and act like I'm somehow wasting your time.